Cleaning rusty carbs with electrolysis

Is it safe to do on carbs? Will it harm the seals or any of the metals? And also, if it's safe, do you submerge the whole carb in the water mixture or is there another way you should do it?

I have an 82 xj750 seca if that helps at all.

Thanks!

 

Personally, I wouldnt on the carbs. I think they are too complex for this process. It will work better on the exterior and to really get the innards well youll want to leave it in longer which may negatively affect the exterior metal and mating surfaces. I have heard of this method pitting aluminum.

If you do go this route then only a short period in the tub is recommended because its aluminum. Submerge the part completely. The part must be ground, the anode positive, and use an intricately shaped anode to get good coverage around the part.

Youll want to use Sodium Carbonate. Its found in PH up at pool stores, arm and hammer washing soap or you can make it by putting baking soda (Sodium bicarbonate) in the oven. After its done, store it in an airtight container cause it likes moisture. Open windows when baking too.

Edit: I also dont think the solution would be good for the aluminum either. I use plain ol Kerosene to clean carb parts. safe on seals too.

 

Never heard of it, and frankly, I don't think it's necessary. Carb bodies are aluminum, so they don't rust or corrode. Aluminum oxide creates a protective coating that prevents further oxidation, and can usually be removed easily if really caked on and powdery. No need to remove or deposit new material on the metal using electrolysis

Electrolysis won't remove fuel residue, which is the real enemy of carbs. Carb cleaner does that, but can ruin seals.

The proper way to clean carbs, tried and true, proven safe method is a full disassembly, flush everything with carb cleaner, then rebuild. Anything less will more than likely fall short.

EDIT: Carb hats might be the only exception.

 

@Manbot13 Electrolysis is an excellent way to restore rusted parts. It pulls off the rust on a molecular level without damaging the part. Do a youtube search. There are some really good videos demoing the process.

If the fuel residue contains rust from the tank it will likely break it up. Again, I wouldnt do this to the carbs. Carb hats are a perfect candidate for this.

 

Sorry, I didn't complete my first thought...I've never heard of anyone doing it to CARBS. Tanks or other steel parts, yes, hence the carb hats.

But not on aluminum. And aluminum doesn't rust. It's oxidation is not water soluble and doesn't not flake off.

And Buffalony points out another very good point, complexity. Electrolysis requires a "line of sight" between the part and the electrode, and you won't get that in the important passages.

So "submerging" the entire part in a solution and do electrolysis on it won't do anything, and even if you disassemble, it's not likely to do anything for you. Hats can be done, but don't require any more disassembly than removing the 4 screws.

 

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll use electrolysis for the hats and carb cleaner while I refills the rest

 

before and after pics please

 

Will do!

 

On topic: I saw a pic of a whole exhaust in a tub head first getting Electro done to it.

There is a lot of information on the web about the process, but here are a few if anyone reading this thread wanna jump right in.

Link 1
Link 2
Link 3

 

just an added note. I would not attempt anything aluminum. if its in to long it will start to eat at it .aluminum is to soft
Think what it does to the metal ground

 

-Carbs don't rust. They can't. (Except the hats and maybe some screws.)

-DO NOT submerge "assembled" (or even partially assembled) carbs. Unless they've been completely disassembled, the throttle shaft seals are still in there and can be damaged (if they happened to still be good.)

-I don't think aluminum conducts well enough for electrolysis to work anyway.

 

Alum is a very good conductor Fitz. Better so than steel not as good as copper or gold.
It used to be used in house wiring and is still commonly used in high voltage transmission lines. You might have been thinking its non-ferrous.

 

I meant the hats and linkage. Should have been clearer.

 

Alum is a very good conductor Fitz. Better so than steel not as good as copper or gold.
It used to be used in house wiring and is still commonly used in high voltage transmission lines. You might have been thinking its non-ferrous.

 

BTW: if anyone wants to try this and you have baking soda but no washing soda, then putting the baking soda in a frying pan is another option. Especially if you dont want to turn the oven on in the middle of summer.

I use 1 and 1/4 tablespoons of baking soda for every gallon of water. most recipes call for 1 tablespoon of sodium carbonate found in Ph up and washing powder. Sodium bicarbonate/Baking soda condenses down (hence the additional baking soda) and turns into sodium carbonate. youll have a slightly higher concentrate than 1 tablespoon per gallon but it will not hurt.

Heat up the frying pan
toss in baking soda
turn and swirl the soda constantly and youll see it geyser or bubble.
The bubbling or spitting is what you want to happen. It will also smell a little soapy at first.
keep doing this until it stops bubbling or geysering so to speak.
Then youll want to keep turning it over for another couple of mins.
When it starts to smell like vanilla its just about ready to use just swirl the pan a little longer, then remove from heat.
mix well into the water and your good to go.

Electrolysis is something every restorer should have in their toolbox.
Enjoy and be safe.

Edit: Addiction Warning