OK, I KNOW this is dum -->Front brake caliper clips

I have a 1982 Seca Turbo that I've resurrected. It has been sitting in my garage (after being my faithful mount for years!) I brought back out of storage and back to life! Started pretty much immediately. New tires, battery, pucks, rubber bits, etc.

When I replaced the tires the Front brake caliper clips dropped out. I KNOW this is dumb, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get them to stay on (or even get them in place, really)

These are the flat stamped plates with the "turned up" edges to hold them in place. I would guess they are to stop the pads from rattling.

Ideally I'd like to put them back on, but is there any reason NOT to leave them off?

Lastly, ever since I bought the bike, once in a while I get a "clunk" from what sounds like the front end. Any ideas? Doesn't effect anything....Front fork PSI??? Seals?? Loos triple clamp ()

Also, I have 2 more turbos sitting in my garage. One is ready to restore. runs, but would need cosmetic and TLC since it was stored outside before I bought it. The other is a basket case. Oh, and I have a NOS motor still shrink wrapped on a pallet.

Thanks,
Rick

 

PICS!! especially of that shrink wrapped motor!

 

Re: clunk - Steering head bearings? Does it clunk when you are breaking? Is everything on the triple tree (forks, top-tree nut, steering head bearings) tightend to spec?

You can put it on it's center stand and put a jack under the front end and wiggle the front end to look for play. You might have to remove some plastics.

 

I will be where the bike is Thursday evening and will take some pics of everything.

I'll check the front end, as suggested, but if I remember correctly everything was torqued to spec and it really doesn't happen all the time...weird, I know.

Any idea about the clips?

Rich

 

I'm in for pics as well!!

I would agree with the above and check the if steering bearing is just a bit loose and 'shifting' under load.

But that would usuay only be the case on braking or bumps.

The forks not bottoming out is it? Check te pressure in the forks?

Welcome!

 

Ummm, no one knows anything about the brake caliper clips??

I really would like to know whether I need them or not and if so, how to put them back in!

Thanks,

Rich

 

Are you talking about the anti-rattle shims that go on the pads themselves?

These (this pattern is from a 550)? If similar, the angled side would go toward the "front" on each side.

 

big fitz,
Nope the things ride under (?) the two pads. They are flat metal rectangles with three edges turned up and bent round (clips) and a notch cut through the center (maybe for the brake rotor?

I saw a photo of a similar one on xjbikes, but now can't find it!

Rich

 

Gotcha.

Have a look in the fiche: http://www.yamahapartshouse.net/pages/O ... MOTORCYCLE)/FRONT_BRAKE_-_CALIPER_(XJ650LJ_-_1982)

From what I can tell, they'd go on the bottom of the caliper "holder" pieces, where the caliper rides against them.

 

Big fitz,
It's the un-numbered part to the left of 12-20 below 11-19

Any idea if I actually NEED them? If so, how the hell to they get put in?

Thanks,

Rich

 

Greetings Rich

They do not appear to be shown in the 650 fiche posted by BigFitz, but let me take a stab at this. I have the metal plates you describe on my XJ 750 SECA. The key was you saying they have a slot for the rotor. BigFitz please weigh in if I've got this all wrong.

The purpose of those plates is to provide a hard surface for the steel brake pad backing plates to ride on when the brakes are applied. Otherwise, when the brakes are applied and the pads grip the spinning rotor, because of the design and floating "play" in the system, the rotor forces the pads and steel backing plate to rotate slightly to where the steel backing plates end up against the soft aluminum surface of the interior caliper face. Because of vibration over time, as the brake pads themselves do not wear that fast, the backing plates rub in about the same place on the interior aluminum caliper face and consequently begin to wear "notches" or "grooves" in the soft aluminum caliper face, one for each backing plate. What happens then is that when you apply the brakes, the leading edges of the steel backing plates hang up in the "notches" or "grooves" and consequently the plates and pads do not move in parallel towards each other against the rotor surface. Rather, the leading edges (relative to rotor rotation) of the steel brake pad backing plates hang up in the grooves they have created, and the pads "toe in" towards the rear so the entire brake pad surface does not contact the rotor thus resulting in less that full braking force.

This is a notorious rear brake problem on the 1983 - 1993 Yamaha Venture Royale, a heavy touring bike. It's always been a wonder to me why this known 83 SECA XJ753RK solution was not also employed on the Venture. I fixed my venture by fabricating a hard plate to fit against the inner caliper face and then milled a corresponding amount off the leading edges of the rear brake pads. Now, the edges of my rear pads ride on a hard surface and do not wear into the caliper face.

So the above having been said, yes you should re-install them. I've done a number of caliper overhauls on my SECA. When the plates start to get sloppy and want to fall off, you just have to bend the clips slightly inward. They should "clip" onto the caliper and stay in place. Use the rotor slot to determine alignment.

 

To Rich and BigFitz

Correction - my bad, I do now see it on the fiche. It's the plate I'm describing above.

 

That's what I thought. YES, you need them. The caliper (under braking load) applies pressure to the underside of that arched piece that it mounts to. Those shim plates would "snap onto" the "pad" area on the arched caliper support piece to protect it from being worn into by the caliper.

"Snap onto" is being applied rather liberally here; they probably don't attach all that positively, but don't need to since once everything's together, they're trapped.

The 550/1100 calipers have similar plates that perform a similar function. They aren't all that positively attached either.

 

OK...I get what they do. How do I get them to "snap on?"

Thanks guys....I'm usually not this dense!

Rich

 

No one can explain how the heck to get these clip son? I know I am being dumb here...but I cannot figure it out!

Help!

Rich

 

It's a friction fit....the bend up sides are supposed to "grab" the sides of the caliper retaining plate........typically, they can just be pushed onto/into place and will hold themselves up (actually, you usually have to "pop" them on or off).

 

AAARRRGGGHH!!!

OK I just finished the oil change and figured since I was already there I would try and put these damn clips in. No go. I cannot figure out where they clip onto. There is a definite LEFT and RIGHT piece. The Front Caliper schematic is NO help as it doesn't really show where it goes at all.

I WANT to put them back in. Although, they may end up in a saddlebag until I find someone who already has them or knows how to put them on!

Rich (Who wants to ride!)

 

OK, Here a couple of Photos of the clips.

Rich

 

Once you remove the brake pads from the caliper.
The clips should snap up into the calipers.
The tabs on the clips will hold the clip in place on the caliper.
Reinstall the brake pads to lock the clips in place.

Note: you may have to bend the tabs out slightly.

Ghost

 

MiGhost,
Huh? These came out while the calipers and pads were fully assembled. AND I still don't know WHERE on the caliper they go!

Rich