82 XJ650 Maxim Carb Joints

Hey guys,

I'm new here, just bought my 82 XJ650 Maxim a couple weeks ago. Got her for a steal. She runs, but not without lots of choke. The carb boots are cracking and letting in air. I've been hunting down replacements and the cheapest I can find is $177 pre-shipping for a set of four. OEM part numbers are

5G2-13586-02-00
5G2-13596-01-00

Can be seen here:
http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/se ... parts.html

I'm wondering if anyone knows a cheaper supplier/vendor/distributor I can get these from or if I can use carb joints from other years/models, etc. I've found sets of four that are for other models that seem to include one of these two carb joints, but use a different, albeit very similar, part number for the other, and they are somehow ranging from $50-$130 for the WHOLE SET! Yes. The WHOLE SET! $50. 0.o

I did a search here for just the part numbers and came up with nothing. I would search their name, but everyone seems to call them everything form boots to holders. Even if posts already exist, I'm a firm believer in posting thorough, correct information. If a solution is found for this, then the next guy to come searching will be able to find this post by the correct part name, number and at least one exact bike application.

Thanks for reading! Now go do more riding!!!

 

Hi. They are hard to find. Used ones pop up on ebay from time-to-time, but they go quick if they are in good enough shape. Also, the 82 XJ650 is YICS and I believe two of the carb joints are not the same as the 80-81, so you have to know that they came off the same year bike.

Many here have repaired their own cracked boots with varying amounts of black RTV and/or sections of bicycle inner tubes.

Noticed that your link leads to parts under the heading for an 83 750 (RK Seca?)

 

I hadn't noticed that the link posted was for the wrong year and size bike! I found that site after searching for the proper part numbers that I obtained from here:

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/home.as ... _-_1982%29

Very interesting that they are the same part number, so I suppose these are indeed interchangeable.

If I'm still wrong, please correct me. I'd hate to order the wrong thing. But I've looked at a few other sites and they all show the same part numbers. The only discrepancy I have found is at BikeBandit (http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... #sch229555); however, they do not list the full part number anyway.

 

Chacal has them. He does not use the Yamaha part numbers. I believe that he is the only one to get new ones from and had to get someone to manufacture them

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... art=0.html
Search for "HCP1714" and you will be right at the top of the list.

Some have recommended using RTV and/or bicycle inner tubes. I suppose that if you coated the boot with something adhesive and then slipped an inner tube over it, you would get a good seal, but I expect it would be a challenge to get the end of the boot into the airbox.

 

I'm not sure we are talking about the same thing. I did a page-search (CTRL+F) for HCP1714 and found silicone grease and o-rings.

Also, the parts I'm referring to do not connect to the air box. Those are called the "Air Cleaner Joints." They go between the air box and the carbs. The part I'm referring to goes between the carbs and the engine. They are often called "carb boots," "carb mounts," or "intake manifolds." However, I prefer to stick with the OEM terms. They are called "Carburetor Joints" and they are between the carbs and the engine.

 

Mr. Omalley,

That silicone grease is the first item in that section. Immediately below that are the airbox to carb boots and after that are the carb to manifold boots.

Search for "RUBBER INTAKE MANIFOLDS & RELATED"

 

DOH! Yeah, I saw that about 61 seconds AFTER I posted my last reply. Sorry, Biff, and thanks for the help. It took me a while to get into the mode of reading Chacal's format for his "store." Seems to be a wealth of information in there on top of good supplies/tools/parts. I'm not too sure of his prices, though!

I actually found a local shop that's cutting me a really amazing deal. About $180 for the set of four. 8 days at most. I'm on my way to getting this baby purring. I have to do this repair and then get to work on rebuilding and tuning the carbs, replacing fuel lines and filters, and generally making sure she is breathing and drinking well. Then I have to find the next-worst issue and work on that.

Thanks for the help! Much appreciated!!!

 

Hey omalley576,
got the same bike as you and am also looking for r carb boots, or "rubber intake manifolds". Would you be so kind and tell me your source because your price sounds very reasonable. I would appreciate if you could send me some contact info for your source. My email is norberts@nwi.net. Thanks.

 

Your best bet for a cheap fix is RTV (silicon sealant) and a bicycle inner tube. Put on the sealant, then cover with inner tube. Just make sure the sealant is "high temp". Proper fix is new ones.

 

What Biff said. Hindsight being 20/20, not only do you potentially have the problem of high cost for this fix, you could break a intake joint bolt in the head and this is no fun. Trust me. My advice: fix it with RTV (high temp) and maybe or maybe not add the innertubes. The tube will give you a longer lasting fix, albeit still temporary as compared to the real deal.

If you want to fix it right, which is always the noble, better thing to do, be prepared. Get the right tools, your hex keys better be hard and not rounded off. Go ahead and buy a new one for this job. If a bolt fights you, QUIT. You would be better off cutting the joint off, relieving the stress under the bolt head and providing SOME access for penetrating oil to get in the threads. Just don't damage the head in the process of using a cutoff wheel or whatever you deem useful to cut the joint off. And DON'T damage that bolt!!! Then spray the bolt with penetrating oil every day for several days without ever trying to turn it for a week, at least. When you feel ready, I would recommend an impact DRIVER (not an air impact wrench, and impact driver is something you manually hit with a hammer). Try the impact driver. If it doesn't loosen the bolt, try tightening it. This can sometimes break free the freeze on your threads. And if you've gotten to this point, stop, spray with penetrating oil again and repeat that process for a while.

If you manage to snap off the bolt, and IF there is still shaft from the bolt sticking out, go out and buy you something that will allow you to locate the exact center with a punch and get a good starting point for your drill IN THE DEAD CENTER of that bolt. (MAKE SURE you get a flat surface on what you are punching, perpendicular to the axis of the bolt). Now start small and drill your way up to the bolt being almost gone.

If you can't do that drilling operation, remove the head. Then either swap it out or take it to a machine shop. Anything else is fruitless. Do NOT use an easy out. They are not meant for frozen fasteners. They are meant for fasteners with perfectly good threads but messed up heads ONLY.

My source was a shop west of Columbus, OH. I do not remember the name and do not have the info. I actually ended up buying a parts bike for $350 that has literally EVERYTHING except a seat, wheels and the front forks. I'm using its parts for a lot of stuff and then parting out the rest.

Good luck. You'll need it.

 

For those encountering this situation down the road, to clarify, when using the RTV and then putting on the inner tube, I would do so with the RTV still somewhat tacky. Possibly putting on one layer, letting it dry, then putting on another and adding the tube while wet so that the tube has some adhesive involved.

BigFitz swears by Kroil as being the only thing that will properly loosen such bolts. I would certainly take the head to a machine shop if the bolts need to be drilled out. Your best bet for removing them would probably be a combination of heat and penetrating oil: Kroil or something similar like PBlaster. (your local automotive store should have this.) Heat it up, add the penetrating oil, tap on it a few times with a hammer, let it cool, maybe add some more penetrant, and repeat two or three times before trying to remove.

The problem here is that aluminum and steel like to react to each other and you have steel bolts into an aluminum head. I have a washing machine that has a significant point of failure: there is an aluminum "spider" which is attached to the stainless steel tub. The spiders have a tendency of corroding away to nothing because of this problem - something I discovered much to my dismay. The cost of having such repaired is as much or more as the cost of a replacement machine. I got the parts online and did the work myself for about a quarter of what a repairman would have charged. What I fail to understand is why manufactures do not correct this problem and use materials - or at least coated materials, to eliminate these problems, such as adding a layer of nickle or some alloy over top of the aluminum. All you would need is a few microns, just something that is inert to both steel and aluminum.

 

That's galvanic corrosion. Look up "galvanic series" on wikipedia. No two metals are ever completely compatible. Any non metallic coating is likely to just become displaced at all contact points and not provide protection.

Manufacturers mix materials for a variety of reasons, sometimes intentionally if the benefit outweighs the incompatibility, sometimes because most engineers, besides chemical engineers, don't think about or know about materials and compatibility.

Use anti seize compound between dissimilar metals. It allows the reaction drastically.

Also, metals that have been intentionally oxidized can actually provide protection from further corrosion.

 

Thanks for the details Jon