back wheel removeal

Is there a lot of steps to remove the back wheel

 

No.

It's covered in the service manual you should have by now.

 

Nope pretty easy after you do it a couple times.. Good luck on the build.. Im doing a 550 right now also

 

Remember this, the brake backing plate comes out with the wheel, so be sure to disconnect the torque arm at the bottom of the plate.

 

Yeah havin some trouble gettin that brake to come loose

 

I just disconnected stuff until I could yank it out, first time I did it. I'm sure it's in the manual, and I have the Haynes and the Yamaha shop manual, but stuff like that I tend to go seat of the pants. If you have the brake disconnected, and the pinch bolts and the axle nut and all that stuff off, the brake backing plate should just pop off.

Do you have a rubber mallet? I find those handy for sticky parts, you won't hurt anything. I use if for popping the axle out and for getting that brake plate off. Or are you having trouble with actually getting bolts and nuts off? I can't think of any that should be tough for the wheel, nothing you'd need an impact driver for, but in general that's a tool you need. I have the kind you hit with a hammer.

Sometimes it just takes "finesse" by which I mean, if you're sure you've detached all the nuts and connectors and it should come off, then just pull on it like you mean business. Now that I think about it, the wheel comes out with the brake in place, which is what Steve is saying, I think. So do you have the wheel off the bike, or what? Get the axle out, slide the wheel out the back, and then worry about backing plate for the brake. IIRC.

 

No I just can't get the backing plate to loosin up

 

Once in awhile this happens.

Make sure that you have the whole rim/brake assembly totally removed from the bike. Don't try to pull the rear brakes out with the rim still on the bike....it WONT come out.

Now, if the rim is on the floor and you can't get the brake cover off, you have probably one of two things that have happened.

1. there are ridges on the braking surface that are not allowing the shoes to slide past.
2. you have at least one brake shoe liner that has delaminated and is jammed.

In either case, you have three options

1. work it and work it and work it, prying carefully til you CAN get it to lift out (everything comes out as a single unit)

2. remove the brake cover lever and pointer. Now, drive the pivot into the brake area and hopefully it will get in far enough that the shoes can squeeze a little closer to give clearance.

3. go ahead a grab a hammer and break up the cover to gain access to the inside. These covers are NOT rare and you can easily find a replacement.

Keep us posted....

Dave Fox

 

Buy a HARDWOOD Hammer Handle for a 20-Oz Framing Hammer
Cut-off the Slotted-wedge end.

Use the Hammer Handle to DRIVE the Brake Assy out from the Drum.

Don't ruin the Brake Assy.

Have an assistant ROTATE the Brake assy as you apply Impact Blows.

Remove Ridge and De-glaze Drum:

•••••

Remove the "Rust Ridge" on the outside with a DREMEL Tool and a Medium Sanding Barrel.
Keep the Tool MOVING around the Circumference of the Drum relatively quickly.
Get rid of the Rust Ridge and make it SHINE,

Once you have the Drum Rust-ridge free ... DE-GLAZE the Brake Drum Surface.
By hand:
Use Plumbers Sandpaper for shining Copper Tubing.
It's about the right width.
Sand the Drum surface de-glazing the Drum with a SLANT Pattern all the way around.
Muscle it but DON'T Stop moving until you get all the way around.
Do a second pass around SLANTING the opposite way.

Easy way:

DREMEL
Medium Coarse Sanding Barrel.
Medium Speed.
Hit the Drum with the sander and KEEP MOVING around and around until you apply HATCH Marks on the whole surface.
Don't stop moving.
Just break the surface and be done with it.


You have to get the Brake Shoes to "Hop" over a Ridge on the Drake Drum.

After you get the Brake Assy free, ... REMOVE the Ridge.
GRIND the Ridge away using a DREMEL Tool and a Medium Sanding Drum.

 

AFTER the wheel is off, right? You have the wheel off now?

 

No. I can't get the piece that goes from the rear wheel to the brake to come loose that connects where that spring is

 

Take the nut off the end of the rod.

"Hold back" the brake activating lever at the backing plate, and fully depress the brake pedal. The rod should pull out of the fitting. You can leave the little lever on (for now anyway.)

The large "stay" has a cotter-pinned nut on it; I'm assuming you got that loose.

 

This type of Thread is a Prime Example of the Owner NEEDING a Workshop Manual.

Armed with a Workshop Manual; there would have been no need for the confusion generated by what is a Maintenance Procedure that each and every owner need to know.

The Step-by-step, Illustrated, instructions for Rear Wheel and Brake Assy removal is explained in detail in the Workshop Manual.

http://www.yamahapubs.com/index.do

1982 XJ650J Service Manual LIT-11616-XJ-60 $93.00 Print-on-Demand
1982 XJ650J Owner's Manual LIT-11626-02-87 $20.00 Print-on-Demand

 

Yeah, removing the lever is not the same as removing the cover.

As far as breaking u the cover plate.....I only advocate that as a total LAST resort. I've only ever had to do that once, and that was because a brake shoe had jammed up inside and it was impossible to get out, otherwise. It took prying and wedging to get things apart even with the cover broken open. As I said before, these covers are not rare, and easily replaceable. Again, it's a LAST resort.

If you're having trouble with removing the levers and/or rods instead, then you're not doing something right. These are not difficult to remove either. If the nut on the end of the brake rod is totally set up and rusted fast, you may have to snap that rod. Then you can take things apart, and replace the rod as you are re-assembling things.

Dave F

 

pictures might help us understand what you're having issues with - take some?

 

I believe this was my initial response.

GET A BOOK.

 

Amen

 

Whats wrong with people!!!!! The most important tools that they need, the manuals, and they can't get it through their heads that they HAVE to buy them!!!!!! Save yourself and US a lot of frustration and BUY the DAMN manuals!!!!!!

SORRY if I upset anyone, but it is so stupid to have to keep going through this over and over.

 

Tapping you guys on the shoulder. TAP TAP TAP

Pisst> this guy might not have the mechanical abilty to tackle the what he is trying to do.

Just remember in the above statement I clearly said "Might Not" in which case a manual may not even help.

Addressing the poster of this thread.
If by any chance I might have offended you please except my appoligy, you can go to www.starmotorcycles.com and look up your bikes exploded parts view and see how that all goes togeather. If you have pulled the axel out and taken the bolt out of the arm that connects to the brake backing plate along with removing the brake foot lever rod. The wheel should be loose and come right out.
I think you are dealing with trying to get the backing plate out of the wheel. With the brakes at rest it should come out of there as Rick had suggested earlier.

MN

PS. If you don't want to buy your own manual, you can go to the public library and look at one there. Here in Minnesota they have copiers we can use to copy whatever pages we want as they don't allow those books to be checked out.

Good Luck

 

Seriously.

In this case, I believe rear wheel removal is covered in the owners' manual!

XJ650J owners' manual: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-OWNERS-M ... 77&vxp=mtr

But for the same investment:

SERVICE manual: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XJ650-XJ ... 62&vxp=mtr

FACTORY service manual: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-XJ-650J- ... 5b&vxp=mtr

I don't know how to make it any easier.

 

Rick, I never agree with you, but today, I'll concede that your advice in this matter is 100% spot on.

 

Mikey, can you identify the part you are having issues removing in the below pic? This is a 750, but parts are similar to your 650.

 

Never break a Part unless you have in possession a replacement.

There are several "Extreme" measures to employ before destroying the Brake Housing.

For Example:

An "Access Hole" can be drilled into the Brake Housing --> (After using a Spare Housing to precisely locate WHERE the Hole needs to be Drilled) <-- to allow for the Brake Drum Ridge to be Removed with a Power Tool.

There are many options for Plugging the Access Hole after the Ridge has been removed.

In the same manner, smaller ACCESS HOLES will allow the use of Pin Punches or Ice Picks to manipulate the Brake Shoes over the Ridge without needing to Remove the Ridge ... at all.

http://www.heyco.com/Hole_Plugs/

 

Especially when it's a rare part. Don't EVER break a rare part.

But these covers are pretty plentiful. Well.....at least for me--I have about 8 of them around.

But as I said before, breaking it open is a last resort, last-ditch effort.

It's better to break it open so you can fix what's wrong and then replace a broken cover, than it is to say "I'm going to have to throw the whole rim and brake assembly away because I can't get it apart and I sure don't want to break it.......I'd rather throw it ALL away".

Dave



Dave F

 

Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't the cam that the brake lever clamps to just press fit. I believe mine just came out when I was polishing then. Can you drive this inside the cover to allow the brake shoes to relax a bit more?

 

You would think if the cam is at rest the backing plate should lift off. There is no automatic adjuster like cars have, so if the shoes are worn it should pull off. If the shoes delaminated and are bound up in there I would rotate the backing plate backwards to try and release the shoe material.

 

There might not be enough relief with the Brake Cover still within the Drum.

Worth a shot.
If it gets pushed in too far without dropping; you risk not being able to rotate the assy.

Then, you'll be farther up the creek.

 

Mikey....here, I'll throw this out to you--

If you still can't get it apart,if you want to box up the whole rim/brake assembly and send it to me, I'm willling to get it apart for you. If worse comes to worst and it really does have to be broken open, I have plenty of brake plates to replace it with. If I have to break it, I'd replace it myself w/o charge since I'd be the one that broke it anyway.

Also, I have enough rims here, that I could also just swap it if it seems that would be better.

Just throwing that option out there for you...........

there's enough guys on the site here that know me and can vouch for me if you need, and you can also see some of the bikes I've done in my gallery.

Dave Fox

 

Hey, you know what........................

Here's another thing for you to try--had this happen once.

With the rim off of the bike, try moving the brake lever on the cover. Does it turn easily (though you do have spring tension)? That's good.
Does it turn hard? Not good......could be shaft is dry
Does it not turn at all? Not good at all.....shaft could be seized.

IF the shaft is seized/almost seized, it may be stuck with the brakes ON, so you'd have to try to 'lever' it to where the shoes retract first.

Dave F

 

.....and I can't remember if someone said it already or not.....

could also be that the shoes are still 'good' but the lining is stuck to the brake drum surface, and is holding the shoes out even when the lever is 'off'

Dave F

 

Ok 1 im still waiting on the manuel to get here I was just asking for ideas

 

Oh, my bad. I didn't realize you were just asking for ideas. Never mind.

I haven't seen any posts by Manuel for quite awhile....he may have left the building.

Dave

 

Manuel?

 

Lol my bad the yamaha book

 

Let's try and diagnose some of those scenarios with a simple test.

1) Does the Brake Housing ROTATE separately from the Wheel?
1a) Noiselessly?

2) Does the Shoe-spreading Cam-shaft move Left and Right?
2a) Do you hear the Shoes retracting-springs moving?

 

Ok so got the wheels off and im replacing the tires is there like a trick to removing the tires to make it easier or would it just be better to take them to a shop I know I have to get the new ones balanced but im just having trouble getting the old ones off

 

Just take the whole wheel to the shop. The charge for mounting and balancing a tire is not that much compared to the price of the tire. At least the shop I go to, they will mount the tire on a wheel ONLY if it is off the bike. This is the main difference from getting tires for your car.

Not to derail the thread, but I've heard of people not bothering to balance the rear, I'm not sure why. Even the tire shop told me something like "a lot of people don't balance rears because..." (insert pseudo-scientific reason here)

 

Have a shop replace your tires, if you don't have the proper tools (spoons) for doing the job you run the risk of damaging the rim and the new tires. Plus you'll need to get balanced anyway.

MN

 

That's what I figured I got the tire spoons actually like 4 but it just wont budge the tires sit in the rims kinda deep don't they

 

The tubeless style rims are a pain in any case it's just better to do it with a machine. Spoons are old school or inner tube tires on spoke rims. It's critical the sealing surfaces don't get damaged or your always going to battling low tire pressure when you want to go for a ride.
If the shop is any good they will clean up the rim and make sure you have a nice surface for the tire to seal on. Also I'm not a big fan of bead sealer on MC rims, that just makes a mess.

MN

 

Mikey, for clarification in the original question on this thread, what piece were you having trouble with, and what did you do to overcome and get the wheel removed?

 

Yes, it would. Don't chew up the cast rims with your spoons; take 'em in and have the pros do it with their nice, protected-jaw tire machine.

And balance both ends; not balancing the rear is an old urban legend from a time when almost all bikes were chain driven; and I could never understand it then either.

 

Bringing the Wheel into a Shop that has both a Tire Machine and a High-speed Balancing Machine is the way to go.
The job gets done without aggravation.
And, ... removing and mounting your own tire can get might aggravating!

Get involved in the process.
Bring the Wheel to a "Customer Friendly" Shop.
Bring a Sheet of ScotchBrite Medium Pad with you.
Have them give you the Rim for a few minutes after the Tire is removed.

Shine-up and Remove the Grime that gets built-up on the jnside of the rim.
You'll have less o f a chance that the Tire will Leak with the the debris removed the Bead Sealing surface.

••• BEFORE •••

••• AFTER •••