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Holy Crap I messed up!! PLEASE help

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by TrebolSUD, Apr 20, 2007.

  1. TrebolSUD

    TrebolSUD Member

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    I put the wrong oil filter bolt in thinking that it was the right one (I ordered the WRONG ONE) which inturn stripped the threads that the oil filter bolts onto.

    WHAT DO I DO?

    I am SO close to getting this bike done with out any major screw ups and then I do a stupid thing like this.
     
  2. eatatjoz

    eatatjoz Member

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    Ouch!
    If you can't tap the threads back in there, the next step is probably a heli-coil.
     
  3. TrebolSUD

    TrebolSUD Member

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    Dang it!! I don't have a tap large enough and I have NO idea how a heli coil works.......is it simple?
     
  4. Ease

    Ease Member

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    Unfortunately you still need a tap to use a heli-coil.
    You have to drill and tap the hole larger, and then screw in the coil to get it back to stock size (and remove the tab from the heli coil without it getting lost in your motor). I had an 84 Honda XL250R that I put helicoils into EVERY SINGLE TOP END BOLT... it's easy, and it works well... but I'm not sure how great it'd be on something like an oil filter bolt where you're taking it on and off so often.
    The only other way to do it is to use an oversized bolt... but you'll still have to tap the hole :)lol:), and finding the appropriate oil bolt is gonna be rough.

    Either way you have to watch for shavings in your case.

    Sorry I don't have any easier advice, I don't mean to be such a downer.
     
  5. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Dum, dum de dum duh de duh duh duh duh dah (sung slowly).
    Bummer. I'm assuming you can't take the bike to a machinist shop. I hope you can, $60 for a helicoil like that would be nice.
     
  6. ridz

    ridz Member

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    Ride hard and live free!
    Dont they make a self tapping bigger sized bolt plug/ I did this on my truck once...(stripped the drain plug)...I bought a bigger plug that was self tapping from auto store and put it in and it worked fine.
     
  7. tewlman

    tewlman Member

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    Not sure about the 750 but on my 550, the oil filter bolt screws in another bolt. After taking the oil filter off, look at where the bolt screws into. If it is a hexagon shape, take a cresent wrench to it, and take it out and to the local motorcycle junk yard. That is a dealer part so the cheapest and quickest solution would be the junk yard.
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    All Stop.
    Quit.
    Hit the brakes!
    I didn't see the insert in the drawing ... I think its only on Oil Cooled Bikes!
    Don't do anything more until you have had the damage evaluated by an experienced, highly-qualified, Machinist.
    It sounds like you are going to need a HeliCoil inserted in the Oil Filter Bolt's stripped-out threading.

    That would be very nice and the story brought to: "And they all lived happily ever after" without a great deal of fanfare.

    Hand the situation over to the Professionals.
    Don't do or try anything that might make it worse than it already is.

    Explain to me how you got a bolt that didn't fit through the Bolt Hole Opening on the Oil Filter Cover.

    http://oemfasteningsystems.thomasnet.co ... &forward=1
     
  9. Gearhead76

    Gearhead76 Member

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    Usually your local automotive store, will carry helicoil kits, they contain the correct size drill bit tap and several helicoils, Around hear it's about $25 a kit, and as long as you can drill straight they work great, Just bring the correct size bolt with you and they should be able to help you out with the right size.
     
  10. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    This isn't going to be "A walk in the Park" for anyone who has the skills to drill, tap and install the miracle HeliCoil insert.

    This job is going to require precision. If the stripped-out threaded area isn't drilled-out perfectly, and the hole re-tapped for the insert, lined-up straight, for the ONE SHOT you are going to get at MAYBE fixing it with the HeliCoil ... this job could go to hell on you right quick.

    The Oil Filter Cover needs to be drawn-up to the Filter Housing FLUSH.
    If you miss by a couple-a-thousandths (.002 - .003) -- it will leak.

    There is likely to be ONE and only one other remedy should the HeliCoil Job not do the trick.

    At the very least -- you need to have the problem evaluated by a professional who can conduct a physical examination of the extent of the damage and make recommendations based upon his findings.
     
  11. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I'm totally with you on trying to do repairs yourself Gearhead, but this is one job that I believe Rick is right about. This repair requires precision that the average joe most likely isn't set up to handle. A head stud is one thing, where a thousandth or two off center isn't going to ruin the part. But as Rick has eluded to, this one can't be off. You still get kudos for cheering TrebolSUD on but this looks like a job for a machine shop. Keep up the good work and good luck Trebol!
     
  12. TrebolSUD

    TrebolSUD Member

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    Thank you all for your responses. For a bit clearer of a story here is EXACTLY what happened:

    I just finished placing the motor back into the engine frame, bolted it up, connected all of the electrical, when I realized that I needed to make sure that I don't forget the oil plug under the bike. I installed the plug from the bike and then thought that I would go ahead and place the filter on. I bought a new oil filter bolt from partsnmore.com a while ago and decided the place the new bolt in. I compared the bolts, noticed the the new bolt was longer, but other than that it seemed alright. I started putting the new bolt in, after tightening it a few turns with a socket I realized that something is wrong. I took it out and started to screw the old oil filter bolt in.........it started to go in, but would then just stop. Basically, it is the first 5 or 6 threads that are stripped.

    Is there a way to grind down the first few threads and use the remaining threads?

    I don't wind taking the part to a machine shop, but I JUST got the motor back together and don't really want to have to take it all the way apart again.

    Thank you all for your help again.
     
  13. kevineleven

    kevineleven Member

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    I'd just run it without oil. All these new fangled lubricants and coolants are unnessicary and over rated, in my book.
     
  14. Gearhead76

    Gearhead76 Member

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    If there's still good threads left, find the correct tap or thread chaser and run it through the hole, as long as you have some good threads that you now the bolt will grab on you should be ok, If you then your going to need to helicoil it,

    And If your not comfortable with the helicoil, definatly do like the other guys said and bring it to somebody who is.
     
  15. TrebolSUD

    TrebolSUD Member

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    Does anyone know that correct size tap that I would use for this occasion? I have an '83 XJ750K.

    WHAT a perfect world it would be if I could get this correct size tap and have it work.
     
  16. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I don't think a regular tap is the best idea my friend. You need to form what aluminum still exists back into the shape that you need. A cutting tap will remove aluminum, not a desirable condition. A roll forming tap is, in my opinion, the best recovery option short of the helicoil. It is a special type of tap that will form the metal into the correct shape without material removal. I'm sorry I don't have the correct size handy but I'm still advocating you get it into a shop. What ever path you take, you have my best wishes for a successful conclusion.
     
  17. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I'm checking to see how this project is working-out.

    Have you had it looked at?
    Are you attempting something yourself?

    How about an update ... this job's got me worried.
     
  18. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I spent a good deal of time discussing this repair job with Technical Department Reps at Yamaha and BDK (Black and Decker -- HeliCoil Div)

    Welding is a chancy, last-resort, but ... still an option on that part of the case.

    It will require being welded by a highly experienced professional capable of joining Cast Aluminum and Billet with a bead that is oil tight.

    After throughly examining the situation the Joint Recommended Procedure to be tried before welding is a HeliCoil Insert.

    You will need the following:

    Metric sized drill: 20.25 mm (.796 in -- 51/64th)

    Tap: HeliCoil Insert Cutting -- Part Number: 5476-20 / Tap

    Tool; HeliCoil Inserting Large sized Insert:
    Part Number -- 7753-20

    HeliCoil Insert / Special sized:
    Insert Part Number: 3745-20-CN 200

    Bolt threads:
    M20 X 1.5
    Length of threaded area at end of bolt = 2.0 cm
    Bolt depth into threaded area with Filter Housing flush to mount and bolt tightened finger tight: 15.5 mm of the 20 mm cut at end of bolt.

    Insert is rated for above the 11 FtLbs of recommended torque.

    Contact:

    Emhart Teknologies
    A Div of Black and Decker
    Industrial Division
    50 Shelton Technology Center
    P.O. Box 859
    Shelton, CT 06484 USA

    Tel. 203-924-9341
    Fax. 203-925-3109

    Email: emhart.teknologies@bdk.com

    Get that bike fixed right.
    Good luck.
    B&D Tech says it WILL work!
     
  19. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Atta boy Rick! You really pounded the pavement on that one! Good advice!
     
  20. TrebolSUD

    TrebolSUD Member

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    Thank you all for your suggestions and help. I got lucky on this one.

    I ordered a cutting tap 20mm x 1.5 and tried it as a last resort. I was VERY lucky in that after cutting maybe one or two threads the tap lined up with the existing threads.

    Who says there aren't miracles anymore? Not me!
     
  21. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Very, very good.

    Now get back to work binging this bike to Tuned for Summer Specs.
     

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