New owner with a couple questions...

Hi everyone,
1. Is there any alignment/hint I can check to be sure that the rear tire/wheel was reinstalled correctly? After I fixed the rear brake and put the tire back on, I noticed that the tire was just about to touch the swing arm/shaft on the left side. It does not seem to have any adjustment and it is a little too close for my comfort. What is the correct measurement for that gap?
2. On the air box, the 4 plastic tubes that connected to the box have small gaps at the base of the box. I don't think that is normal because dust can get to the carbs. What can I do to fix/seal them?
This web site is awesome!

 

1. Its supposed to be that way. It rides about 1/8" from the arm. You could go through a microfiche or the service manual to verify all parts are installed. Like washers and any spacers.

2. Thats not good! I havent tinkered with this airbox yet so I'm sure someone with more knowledge will chime in soon. I'd recheck the assembly and the tubes. are the gaps all the same? Maybe the tubes need to be loosened then rotated on the carbs until they mate with the box better. I'd say if its all back together properly and the boots are correctly fitted...then silicon caulk.

 

2. The airbox can be mounted can be adjusted maybe 1/2" (maybe less) fore/aft. Just lossen the two mounting screws and see if it can be moved forward any more.

Know too that the airbox/carb boots, or joints are not plastic, but in fact are made of rubber. If it's hard enough for you to make that mistake, you can boil them to make them more pliable (I haven't done this so search the forum for instructions). They dry out over time and get harder and shorter.

If boiling them doesn't work, you can get a new set from chacal. It's a little pricey, but that'll fix you up right and make the carbs easier to install. Also, it's not just dust that you need to worry about, gaps in those boots result in air leaks that will cause severly lean running.

 

Boots: last person to replace carbs didn't get them fully pushed into airbox - they have a groove. Pulling them out makes it easier for carb removal. I did it twice this weekend. Its easy to fix if they are not stiff and cracking, even attached to carbs.

 

Also they may be misaligned - there is a raised bump on each boot, and two raised on the box to be matched up. Like this: 0o0

 

Thanks all for your help, you guys are awesome! After almost two hours, I finally got the gap on the tubes closing. Here are my next questions: I also rebuilt the wiring and the petcock and I concerned that I may screwed up somewhere...
1. For some reasons, the head & tail lights are always on when I start the bike. There is no switch to turn the lights on/off. How do I fix this?
2. The petcock now only works/flows fuel with the level set on PRI. What did I do wrong? Also, on the add on fuel filter, how can you recognize the in or out port?
3. I installed the Euro bars and the PO installed a master cylinder without a mirror mount. I will need to replace it with one that have mirror mount. I heard that, because of the oem bars, oem MC may not hold the mirror correctly. What others/compatible Yam MCs can I buy that let me mount a mirror with Euro bars?

 

i believe that when you turn the key the lights are supposed to turn on even before you start the engine. its required that they be on all the time on a motorcycle while riding

 

1. crowdpleazer is right. This is the normal operation for most of these XJs. Some do have a headlight relay, but I don't think the XJ650 maxim is one of them.
2. If you suck on the vacuum line of the petcock, does it flow fuel on ON or RES? Is it connected to the engine? Is it a proper vacuum line (i.e. doesn't collapse under vacuum like a fuel line would)?
3. You can get mirror mounts that are seperate from your master cylinder and controls. It'll clutter up your bars a bit but might be a cheaper option.

 

1. The 650 does have a headlight relay so the light should only come on once you have spun the starter. There is no way to shut it off for legal reasons as stated.
2. Inline fuel filters usually have an arrow showing the direction of fuel flow or the in and out labeled. In is the side that has the filter out is the chamber side.
3. the master cylinder from the 650RJ Seca, 650 Turbo, 700's, 750-X should work on the flat bars and have the correct bore size. I think Chacal (xj4ever) has after market ones as well
if you want both mirrors to be in the proper position you need a new clutch lever as well if it hasn't been replaced already you can get one off of a 650RJ Seca, 650 Turbo, 700's, 750-X, xj550's, 650RJ Seca, and 750-Police

 

My bad...I was just disassembling my MC for the turbo, and it DOES have mirror mounts. The just have a plug cap over them. So they would work also.

 

thanks for catching that ManBot

 

Yeah, confirm '82 XJ650--the light won't come on until the engine has gotten enough RPM to get it going. If only the starter spins, the headlight won't come on. After it is on, it will stay on, even if you kill the engine, until you turn the bike completely off.

 

fintip are you sure? Not with her now, my 82 has the relay. But I thought that just cranking the starter without turnover will activate headlight. I should know this, eh?

 

The light will come on as long as the bike fires it doesn't need to start just chug once.