Bike is running really hot.

Hey guys I am having an issue. I had problems with this before where my bike wold get close to dabble in the redline on the temp gauge in even just minor traffic.

Now it gets to the point where the needle will go full on into the red all the way to where today I pulled over on the side of the road 3 times to turn it off and let it cool for a few minutes. I am not riding it hard when this happens. I am doing 25-50 mph. It even gets pretty hot on the freeway. I don't want to kill my bike but I am not sure what this could be. Last time I had dirty coolant. I've since flushed the coolant system and refilled the bike as the pdf write up on here explained to do.

It gets to the point where I have a hard time enjoying the ride because I am stressing about my bike over heating under me. Is there anything I can do? can these bikes just not handle hot weather? It was 95 out today. I plan on doing a 600 mile road trip coming up pretty soon and want to make sure this is ironed out. Is there anything I can do to "upgrade" the coolant system? I would love for the gauge to just be dead center unless there is an issue... Would make me a whole lot more comfortable. So questions...

My fan on the radiator blows away from the radiator and onto the engine. Is that normal?

Is what I am experiencing normal? How could any buddy Daily Ride in traffic if mine can't take more than 2 stop lights in a 1/2 mile without getting to the red. I would really like to be able to DR this bike.

When It does get into the red is it best to speed up so more air flow hits it? or just pull over and wait?

Would using a stronger coolant mixture help? Like 70 coolant 30 water? As opposed to 50/50?

Dang I'll be glad when I get this issue fixed.

 

Are you sure your water pump is working and actually circulating coolant? How does the inside of the radiator look?

 

Is there an easy way to check that it is actually circulating? Good as far as I could tell. I disconnected it and rinsed it out as well as installed some new hoses from chacal when I had it apart.

 

if it's not circulating the rad won't be very hot. i think most engines get a little hotter when you shut them off, no circulation at all.
could the gauge be wrong?

 

I'll take it out real quick and let you know if the rad is getting hot. Thats what I dont know because it does not run different but I mean you can definitely feel that the bike is hot but is hotter than normal? idk. Just seeing that needle slide up into the red scares me.

 

Think about replacing the thermostat. I may not be working.
I would also verify the temperature gauge is accurate. A thermometer secured to one of the rediator hoses will show you.

 

Alright guys here is what I found..

Took it for just 10 minutes. temp gauge starts out less than halfway. 25-30 for 1/8 of a mile. Stop turn. Get on it in first till about 9k then shift into second. Coast around 40mph. Still the same. Stop at a light. Go right get on it through 1st and 2nd puts me around 60 ish. Shift into third cruising at 60-65mph ride like that for 2 miles with occasional rolls up to 75. Gauge is now showing around the middle. Stop turn around head back down that road same thing on the way back. But this time get stopped at a light. Gets about %75 of the way up. Stop at light for 15 seconds to turn left back into subdivision bike is all the way on the red to the other side of the temp gauge. Start out slow keep the rpm's as low as possible to get up to 45mph keep it in fifth pulling in the clutch every now and then to hopefully bring it back down. It goes to a bit JUST below the red eventually. Like a hair off.

Radiator is definitely hot. Like can't leave my finger on it for more than a second. (A lot hotter than before I left) Which should mean its working quite well.

Just a normal analog thermometer? Like taped to it?

Would I need to replace the thermostat if I am installing a vapor aftermarket gauge? I would think so because it triggers the fan right?

 

I do have a mac 4-1 exhaust and am using a uni foam air filter from chacal. I don't think that would make a difference? Stock jetting I haven't touched them. It pops a bit on decel.

 

This is how it looks presently. The tank is still a little dented on the other side and I have yet to put on the gauges or the led turn signals.

The vapor comes with an oil temp sensor will that work to check the temp?

 

But you didn't tell us when the fan kicked on -
My guess is the thermostat.
You can remove the thermo-switch and the thermostat and boil them both on the stove, with a candy or meat thermometer, and a multi-meter hooked to the thermo-switch.

(while the wife stares . . . 8O )

 

I agree, its time to test the thermostat and fan switch.

 

The usual overheat symptoms on a Liquid Cooled Bike are Thermostat and Pump.

You should become familiar with Booster Pumps.
F-Y-I

http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electric_ ... -list.aspx

 

Sorry about not mentioning when the fan kicks on I didnt even think to listen or check for that I was more testing the radiator for heat.

So are we talking about these?



#2?



Are there any pdfs or threads made on how to check those two? Is it relatively simple? I can't make a mess in the garge (not my place)

and Rick does that replace the waterpump or is it more like a bolt on coolant "turbo" if you will?

 

I see the thermo switch in the above diagram but where is the thermostat?

 

Wow I actually really like that idea. Seems like it would really help keep the engine a lot cooler. Do you have one on any of your bikes? Does it have any negative draw backs? If you are using one can I get a picture?

 

Triumphs need to be properly "burped" after filling/emptying to get all the air out otherwise they get hot. Try squeezing various hoses etc to make sure you have got all the air out of the system....otherwise could be water pump?

 

If your radiator is clean on the inside, I'm guessing it's the thermostat. Replace it and see if that fixes the problem.

 

From the pictures I posted can you tell me where the Thermostat itself is? I need the "for dummies" explanation. :lol:

 

I'll try this an an hour or so when I get home. Though I am pretty sure that it is good. I'm also going to make sure none of the radiator fins are bent.

 

No, I don't know where your thermostat is. A manual for your bike would show you. Do you have a Haynes manual?

 

The two pictures I posted earlier are of the cooling system that were in my repair manual. I have an owners as well as a service. I do not know if it is the haynes or not. I can check in 2 hours when I get home.

 

What controls my temp gauge? Is there a sensor somewhere that I can check?

 

Right my friend, 2 nuggets of info for you. First, if you can take your tank off, your thermostat is under there, the thermostat housing looks similar to a car one (well the cars in the uk anyway), and if I remember correctly, it's above your coils.

secondly, the sensor for your temp gauge is in the same place and it's just a single wire coming from it.

If it wasn't pi**ing it down with rain here, I'd have gone out to my bike, took the tank off and took a pic of it for you. If you get really stuck, I'll nip out, lift the cover and try and get a pic for you, let me know.

I hope that helps my friend.

 

I will take a look tonight thank you! Dang I wish it was raining here. It has been around 99-105 degrees the last two weeks.

You have a maxim x as well! Where does your bike generally operate temp wise on your gauges? Mine has always been just a tad under red but lately it likes to venture up there.

 

Normally mine operates at between 1/4 to half way. In standing traffic it goes right up to virtually in the red, then the fan cuts in and it usually drops to around the half way mark, until I start moving again, then it goes back to between 1/4 and 1/2.

 

Hmmm that is a good deal cooler than mine. It normally runs halfway up or more. That would be nice.

I tried just starting it in the driveway and revving it to 1-3k every 30 seconds or so. Sure enough the fan kicked in after it had been just a tad over half. It then gets up to the red then starts to get into it and I shut it off. It appears to get hotter at idle not something I like. My friend who has been an ase mechanic for 10+ years and owns a garage has offered to check the cooling system for me.

I'll get it to him on Sunday.

 

Could the fact that I did aftermarket exhaust and an air filter mean that it is running lean and burning hotter? Uni air filter and MAC 4-1.

 

if it's running hotter due to the mods, it would mean that the thermostat and water pump would be running more. Your bike should not be running that hot. check your thermostat + water pump

 

Will do that.

I was able to ride 30 miles at 75mph and the gauge stayed dead center. I had to stop at a light and wait 2 minutes to turn left and it went from mid to starting to touch red. So it seems to do well at speed. But not at a light. A friend is going to help me check it out. We'll be sure to check the plugs, thermostat, and water pump. Anything else I should take a look at?

 

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74&pcid=10

 

I had seen that stuff and was going to ask if anyone had tried it.

 

Can someone with a maxim x check something for me? should my maxim x cooling fan be blowing toward the radiator or toward the engine?

 

I've never seen any radiator fan on any vehicle that does anything other than blow toward the engine from behind the radiator. That is, it pulls air though the radiator from its position between the radiator and engine.

 

Okay turns out It looks like I wired the fan backward (palm to face) Would it blowing TOWARD the radiator be whats causing this? Sounds right to me...

 

I the fan is blowing toward the radiator, it would be pushing against the air trying to come through naturally when you are moving. My fan comes on a little bit before the red and only comes on if I haven't moved for more than five minutes.
I also know that adding more anti-freeze doesn't increase the coolant properties of water, it just increases the boiling point, and also adds some lubrication for the pump. This is why most racing engines use straight water, for maximum cooling.

 

So it may not be a bad idea to move the mixture a bit heavier water based till winter? As well as it is obviously urgent that I switch that fan back over.... Question I have... I have taken this cooling system off probably 2 times in the last month and am sick of draining and refilling... Could I just swap the wired at their connector? The fan wired run up to a grey connector that clicks into another one which I am assuming goes to the thermostat.. Can I just switch the wires around to make it run correctly? As opposed to taking the radiator off, draining the coolant, removing the fan, and re-soldering?

 

Another thing you could try is the latest greatest in radiator tech. They're known as wetting agents. You can run it with Ethylene G and H20 for both cooler operation and anti-freeze or run it with H20 only for even cooler operation.

I tried it in my '74 Toyota. I was betting it was 'snake oil' but its an old truck with an old radiator (which I plan to replace) so I gave it a try. It lowered my high temp (sitting in traffic) by 15 degrees F-and that was with Antifreeze still in there. It works by decreasing the friction and increasing the contact with the radiator surfaces to improve cooling. I was pleased and a little surprised by the results.

 

So the stuff you added is the "ethylene g"? Are there any drawbacks to running just straight water till after fall? the cooler it will run that happier I will be... I realize a lower boiling point but will that matter? Maybe just go to like an %80 water %20 anti freeze?

 

No, Ethylene glycol is the sweet tasting chemical which when mixed with water raises boiling temp and lowers freezing, aka antifreeze. The wetting agent is the stuff I added. I tried Royal Purple's 'Purple Ice'-got it at the auto parts store.

Link:
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/product- ... t-additive

Just water as you know will boil at 212F or 100C; a drawback since many engines will top that temp while sitting, but your bike may not. Most will tell you plain water can lead to corrosion and result in rust/or calcium (tap water) in your water chambers/radiator so I wouldn't If I were you. A little antifreeze will prevent that corrosion and race motors have run that way for years safely.

You could get the Purple Ice and run it alone with water for better cooling but you wouldn't have any antifreeze protection that way. Of course you could just switch out your coolant and add antifreeze in the winter.

Personally I would run 40/60 or 30/70-antifreeze/filtered or distilled water and add the wetting agent per instructions. Should give you plenty of anti-freeze, boil over and cooler running.

 

That doesn't sound like a bad idea. Man bot had recommended "water wetter" which sounds like pretty much the same thing. So a tad less coolant, more water, and add a "wetting" agent

 

Forgot to mention-there is an optimum temperature you want your motor at for maximum performance. I have no idea what that temp would be for our bikes, but most automobile enthusiasts say it's around 190-195F for car engines. I always thought cooler was better, but I continue to learn as I go.