Gas Leak

Hey guys, I just spent two weeks getting my ride functional (new fork seals, new tires, new battery, removed and cleaned carbs) and today I rode it to work. Man that felt good!! But later in the day a co-worker pointed out is was leaking gas. It's coming from the two larger tubes on the bar (not sure of the right term) at the bottom of the carbs. It's the one that hooks the throttle adjust screws together. Any ideas what's up?

 

I'm unclear if you are referring to the FUEL GALLERY connecting all four Carbs or OVERFLOW TUBES.

Since you say its BETWEEN the Carbs; I'll guess you mean FUEL GALLERY.

The TUBES connecting the Carbs are Press Fitted Unions which employ O-Rings to Seal the connection.

If the O-rings are aged and dried-out; they leak.
You have to separate the Carbs.
Remove the the Union Barrel.
Remove the Old O-Rings.
Clean the O-D of the Barrel -- I-D of the Carb Body.
Install NEW O-Rings.
(Lube with Brake Fluid or Fork Oil)
Insert the Barrel between the Carbs and Press the Carbs back together.
True the Carbs and reinstall the Rails.

 

Yeah, that's the place it's coming from. I guess it's back to the drawing board or the work bench in this case. Thanks for the help as always!!

 

Actually after taking my carbs off and cleaning them out two more times I keep having the same thing happen. The bike runs great right after I get done putting everything back together, but over night it starts leaking gas out of the overflow tubes. The last time I dry adjusted the floats according directions I found on the sight. I thought it might be the float needles but they all seem functional too. I am at a loss and ready give up!!!

 

It's probably your float heights. You need to do the clear tube method to set them correctly.

The dry set height of 16mm for our bikes (I have an 85 too) may or may not work. It's a crap shoot.

I know because I just spent the last 8 hours trying to set mine after installing new needles and valve.

This is what you want to do: http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

 

Dry setting is only a starting point.

Some additional tips for successful "wet-setting:"

-The rack needs to be firmly mounted, and LEVEL in ALL directions.

-If you bend the tang far enough to know you bent it, it's too much. Think "nudge."

-Before taking a reading, fill the bowl until it shuts off, drain a bit, fill again, drain a bit, then allow to fill and take your reading. In other words, "cycle" the float valve a couple of times before taking a reading. If you "read" it the first time it fills, it might not be an accurate depiction of its "working" shut off point. Guess how I learned this?

-BE PATIENT. This particular process will NOT go quickly and you don't want it to. Done right, this is "set it and forget it" stuff. The more accurate you are, the less likely it will need to be revisited any time soon.

-Double- and even triple- check your results.

Oh, and for the OP: You still need to get your valves in spec to be able to sync the freshly-serviced carbs; and be sure to check for gas in the oil after the overflowing episodes. Open your filler and have a whiff; if you smell gas and not just "warm oil" then don't run the motor any more until you've changed the oil and fixed the carbs.