Need help with carbs, brakes, and valves

Alright guys so I convinced my landlord to let me work on the maxim x in the garage. Questions.....

I have never done carbs at all ever. Never taken them off never seen the inside nothing. But they need to be cleaned, rejetted, and synced. I have no idea what, how, or what "syncing" is. I want to do it right and completely the first time. I hear "yics" thrown around all the time... I don't think my motor is a yics motor.

Valves. Same thing hear no idea how or what I do...

Brake pads and line... Seriously considering finding someone to do these for me...

I have used a couple pdf "how to" sheets off here. For flushing the coolant sytem, oil conversion kit, and other small things..

Are there any for carbs? Valves? Brakes?

Also I have the maxim x so if there is anything particularly "different" please let me know.

Also what would my down time be for this work? A weekend? A week? I want to do it right the first time so I am not redoing stuff I "Skipped" the first time around.

Thanks in advance for any links or help. Trying to avoid spending 1k for someone else to do what I can for a few Hundered.

 

Just a quick point for those XJers that have done lots of valves. The 'X' is 5 valve per cylinder and will not be the same as the rest of us when it comes to advice.

 

Use the FAQ's and the search function. Carbs aren't that hard. Look for Rick's "Church of the Clean" post,and rely on Chacal for parts.I myself would pm XJ4ever and ask what he recommends parts wise.He sure sells to all of us and knows what we use. Might as well get what you need before you open things up.
Correcting float levels is a pain. Do it while the carbs are off the first time. You don't want to get experienced at putting the rubber boots back on. I swear it gets harder each time I fuss with the carbs.Synching-adjusting the butterfly valves (dollar sized discs in the carbs throat),initially after reassembling the carbs,fine tuned after you check the valves (again get the digital tool from Len) and it's running.
The special wrench? I used an adjustable wrench (money's tight) and had to be real careful. What's the PIA factor worth? Changing 5 valve shims is work,check the gap before you sweat it. If you're CAREFUL and patient you may get the valve cover off with an intact gasket.A little silicone on the flat side and you're set for the next time (5,000 miles). New doughnuts? Keep your landlord happy and avoid oil leaks with the rubber thingies.
Best money I spent? From Chacal- the fancy screwdrivers.First screw I DIDN'T strip paid for them. From the rest of the world? KROIL (godsend).Again first screw...
Do it. I promise,with some gladwrap around the keyboard or a friend with clean fingers,and the support of the masters here.You can do it. And the smug (read s**t***ing) grin you'll have when you're done. You CAN do it,plus it's easiest done right the first time,more time for riding,and after all...that's what it is all about.

 

GET A SERVICE MANUAL. Adjusting the valves (replacing shims) on an "X" bike involves removing the camshafts. (The shims are under the buckets.)

DO NOT attempt this without a book. Checking them, sure--use my pictorial but know it won't quite look the same. The concept and procedure is the same; the specs different.

But DO NOT attempt to adjust them until you've had a few hours studying the service manual first. Don't put it off; on that motor keeping them in spec is even more important. Luckily you only have to do it one-third as often as on an airhead.

 

Alright guys I do believe I have the owners and service manual pdf's my service manual says xj750x-xj700x

Sound like the right thing? Under valves it says every 26k or 46k kmh.

Obviously being as old as it is.... Should be done anyway.

Can I do this in steps or should it all be done at once?

 

Start with first priority and do it in steps that way it's not overwhelming and you don't mix up or lose anything.

Brakes are the easiest. Don't farm that out, you can do it. Next to an oil change they are the easiest thing to do, although sometimes annoying bleeding them.

Valves should be done before carb work as they will change the synch-which btw is exactly what it sounds like as in they work by metering fuel to unique cylinders so 'synching' them means adjusting each carb to it's unique cylinder and then to each other so they are all balanced. Ultimately this means all 4 cylinders are 'equally' driving the crank on their power stroke<--Very good thing! The X valves are more of a pain but not really bad like you might at first think. Just requires more time and patience. BigFitz is right about the manual, and I would take it one step further. Get two if you can find a different source, use Youtube and watch others do the same type of work. It may not be exactly the same but it will give you insight. Research and preparation are key to your success.

The carbs are the hardest, but mostly because they are intricate and a little delicate in places. Key here is research and then staying organized as you go, digital pictures are a must and I take notes also. Only take apart one body at first, become familiar with it then proceed to the others.

While your doing any and all of this work, remember to take breaks, enjoy it, and when in doubt ask plenty of questions, and finally know that you are basically going to school to learn a craft, it won't always be easy but is totally worth it in the end.

You knew when you came here that we would eventually drag you into becoming a mechanic! On a side note those are really neat motors Yamaha designed and truly performance based. How many people do you know that can say they did all that work on a 5-valve per cylinder mill.

 

Thank you VERY much. I will start with the brakes. And I do really love this bike. i haven't seen another one in person ever. Question with brakes... Can I do this work without a center stand? Mine got bent in my wreck and was removed.

 

Put a "wanted" post here in sell trade wanted",and check ebay. You HAVE to have the bike upright to accurately check oil level,and off the rear wheel to get the wheel off (to change the brake shoes-a must do/cheap/life protecting kinda thing to do.)
The alternative is a lift from Harbor Freight,and with my SECA's and XS's the bike rests on the mufflers,bad idea.Plus,the used center stand is probably cheaper.
Time-rear brakes 1 hour the first time (get a tub of synthetic grease @ auto parts store.You'll need a basic metric socket set. Sears,get the Craftsman kit,a cheap pair of pliers and a new cotter pin(cheap @ Harbor freight.)
Valves-2-3 hours When you're @ Sears also get the socket(for the ratchet) with the 5mm. Allens key fitting.At Sears you can also get a set of inexpensive Allens keys (the black 6 sided things with the 90 degree bend.)You'll need the tool from Chacal for checking valve clearance,get that when you get the shoes and pads for the front.This is to check clearance.Get a cheap toolbox somewhere.It'll keep parts and tools together,and gives you a place to set nuts/bolts as they come off.
Carbs- a week,few hours here,soak in cleaner,a few hours there. Remember to Kroil or Liquid wrench every external screw over night before trying to unscrew. All of this is easier the second time around.
Take pictures every step,you think you'll remember,but it approaches info overload. So much easier to be able to look at the pic's. (You'd think I just went through this stuff,new old bike. Haven't done these things in years,old old bike. Worse than doing it the first time,keep thinking I remember,rather than checking the manuals.
After you get valve clearance numbers,start a new thread with the heading to include 700X,or like Bigfitz said,people will have wrong info for you.