Completely new to bikes, quick question?

Had a friend help me clean the carbs today, the jets were almost all blocked, and one of the drain screws was filled with JB weld, but they are cleaned up now! Only issue I saw was the two big main jets are diff.. drawing a blank right now on the exact numbers, but one was x15, and the other was x25 if that makes any sense?

Hopin I can find a spare fuel hose to hook up the red tank and try and start her tomorrow!

 

Sooo... she wont turn on now, fuses are all good, battery is charged, and im getting power through the starter module (not really sure where to trace past that) but when I turn the key nothing happens.. used to always light up the dash, but no luck now.

Any help or advice for what wires and things to check would be much appreciated!

 

If the Bike gets energized, ...
But ...
Won't "Crank"
Inspect the Switches, Relay and Continuity of the SAFETY CIRCUIT Items.

If the Bike DOES "Crank-over"
Troubleshoot:
• Fuel
• Ignition

Common Gremlins:
Fuse Panel
No Fuel
Plug Wires
Coils

Do a Starting Fluid Start-up TEST
"Pop~No Pop"
a) "Pops"
Fuel Delivery~Supply related.

b) "No Pop"
Troubleshoot Ignition using No Start Checklist.

 

No, the bike used to get energized and cranked, now the bike won't get energized..

 

You've got a bad wire, corroded connection, bad ground, bad ignition switch, etc. Start with the chassis ground coming off the battery make sure it's making contact. Then pull out your headlight and check all those connections. Do a search on here for wiring diagram, and not the simplified one unless your bike has been re-wired. You need to full one and then you can trace any wire or any switch. Wiring is a headache for most, but it only requires EXTREME patience and it becomes easy, that and a multimeter, dielectric grease, and some shrink tubing, soldering gun....

Truly with the state your bike is in, your going to need a manual.

 

I've got the full manual, I am just wondering with the specific symptoms of the bike always energizing, the carbs being taken off, put back on, and the gas tank put on if there are any specific wires I should check or if I just gotta dig into it.

 

You're getting WAY ahead of yourself here.

First off, have a look at the fusebox. The original clips tend to crystallize and break all on their own.

Once you can get the bike so it will at least spin over with the starter, DO NOT try to start it. Not yet.

Are the valve clearances in spec? If not, get them in spec.

Then spin the motor over and get a compression test. Then and only then do we worry about actually trying to start it, provided it's got decent compression in both pots.

Otherwise you can burn a lot of effort and frustration chasing the wrong problem.

 

I understand that, looks like Ill just have to dig in, I was just looking for direction because now it will not energize (a problem not previously present) so I can't even crank it to do a compression test, and unfortunately my compression tester does not have the right adapter end.

 

Dig in. Putting the cart before the horse only leads to false assumptions and frustration.

You should replace the fusebox with a "modern" one (blade fuses.)

Or you can go "old school" and get some new clips from Radio Shack and rebuild your original. But start with the fusebox.

Once you can get it to turn over by shorting out the two big terminals on the solenoid, you can do a compression test. Just be sure to unplug your TCI unit if you're spinning it over without (grounded) spark plugs.

I ended up buying another compression tester kit ($23 at AutoZone) to get the 12mm adapter. Now I have a "second opinion" right in my toolbox.

 

Ok now that I have been hard headed I will start listening to y'all! I got her started and she ran and idled quite well! deff needs a new return spring on the carbs and a clutch cable.

Engine is coming out for a rebuild though, it smoked reallllll bad on the right side of the engine so once that comes off much advice will be appreciated as to what to get and where to get it as well as what to be careful of when tearing the engine down.

 

DO NOT just start ripping the motor apart assuming an issue and/or assuming that "rebuild" parts are readily available.

-CHECK the valve clearances.

-DO a compression test.

Then and only then will you have any idea of how much "rebuilding" it needs.