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cracks on the intake rubbers + carb rebuild parts?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by broberg, Aug 30, 2012.

  1. broberg

    broberg Member

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    Hi

    My rubber connections between the carbs and the cylinders has these cracks on the outside :
    [​IMG]

    Due to their age I suppose, BUT the insides are still smooth and has no cracks. So the question is, should I find replacements or will these work another couple of years? (I haven't had the bike running yet, bought it as a fixer since only one carb is getting fuel at the moment I'm in the process of cleaning)


    And the next thing, Somewhere up the line of owners the airbox was removed and pods where fitted, So I'm currently looking for an airbox and was wondering how the airbox is fitted? Is it screwed in to place or is it just hanging on the carbs?
    If someone had the time to take a photo of their airbox in the frame I would be much appreciative!


    Btw. It's a 1982 XJ550 (seca, since It's a Euro bike)
     
  2. broberg

    broberg Member

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    Re: cracks in the rubber connections between cylinders and carbs

    And addition,

    This kit
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/K-L-ECONOMY-C ... 35bf478eef

    Will that suffice when cleaning the carbs?

    "Each kit contains all necessary gaskets and O-rings rebuild one OE carb
    Does not include main jets or pilot jets
    Kits come with needle and seat if removable on OEM"
     
  3. JeffK

    JeffK Well-Known Member

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    Re: cracks in the rubber connections between cylinders and carbs

    Two things....Cracking air boots- many guys use a combination of a strip of rubber from a bicycle or motorcycle inner tube and black silicone to repair the boots. Its' very difficult to spread silicone evenly and make it look nice so a lot of guys will coat the rubber boot, then wrap it with the thin rubber strip from the innertube to finish it. You can customize yours bu using zipties to hold the rubber or something else.

    Carb kits- I've restored & rebuilt more than just a few carbs and I've found that while the K&L kits are better than most Keyster kits, they aren't nearly as good as going to someone who sells specifically made kits for your bike....someone like Len who runs this site or Brian at BDesigns.ca

    They both stand behind their kits and will get you the right parts.....don't waste your money on a kit where the only really good part included is a gasket.

    jeff
     
  4. HirsuitHeathen

    HirsuitHeathen Member

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    Re: cracks in the rubber connections between cylinders and carbs

    Mine were in the same condition smooth and unbroken on the inside, cracked and dried out like an old woman. They eventually wore through, leaking a lot of air and throwing off my sync, and I was lucky enough to find a member on here that sold me what looked to be NOS carb to manifold boots. The inner-tube-silicone-application seems to work pretty good in lieu of a proper set of boots.
     
  5. broberg

    broberg Member

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    So, temporary I can manage with some silicone coating?

    What parts is recommended in the carb rebuilding process exactly?
    Since I live in Sweden I figure that with shipping and toll+taxes it's cheaper for me to buy the parts locally, Or if you know an english/german seller that has the parts.
     
  6. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    As long as the cracks in the intake boots do not go all the way through. It is only a cosmetic issue. There is a post here somewhere about wraping the boots in a bicycle inner tube.

    The resident parts supplier here can provide any parts you need. Ships world wide. Click the XJ4ever banner at the top of every page, and look for the parts catalog

    Ghost
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I gotta find some pics that I haven't put into Photobucket yet to do that but I will if you need me to.

    Meanwhile: No, it's not just hanging from the carbs. It's mounted in 3 spots. Two are obvious, there is a flat, horizontal bracket with fore/aft slots located below and just forward of the rear fuel tank mount/frame cross-tube. You can only see it with the tank off. Two bolts go into the top of the airbox and there is a third (just a tab) located UNDER the tool tray/TCI-fusebox mounting piece where another bolt picks up the rear of the box.

    In normal maintenance, you remove that third bolt, and loosen the upper front two to slide the airbox rearward for carb removal.

    If you still need a pic, let me know.
     
  8. broberg

    broberg Member

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    Thanks!
    The description of the mounting points helped!

    The thing is I ordered a used airbox from a bike scrapyard, But I was worried that there where brackets misssing for the mounting (since they only had the airbox and the ducts to the carbs).
    But if it's just some bolts that are missing thats fine.
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Yep, the mounting hardware's just three bolts.
     
  10. jeffcoslacker

    jeffcoslacker Member

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    I was at a farm and home store yesterday and looking at the liquid rubber dips they had for things like putting non-slip, non-conductive handle coating on tools, etc...

    And it occurred to me it MIGHT work well on something like this...and it even comes in fun colors...

    I wouldn't want to get it on the inside surface of the boots though...it says it's chemical resistant but fuel and heat constantly would eventually make it fail...you wouldn't want that in your motor....

    But for exterior cosmetic repair and maybe stopping very fine hairline leaks, I'd give it a shot...if mine were in bad shape...

    I'd use yellow :)
     
  11. jaiblevins

    jaiblevins New Member

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  12. Bjarvis

    Bjarvis Member

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    Has anyone tried electrical shrink wrap that is used on soldered electrical wires - it shrinks tight with a heat gun and comes in large sizes as well as diff. Colors - black for sure. Perhaps silicon fist then covered with shrink wrap would work - just a thought......
     

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