I'm a noob...

So i'm restoring an 1982 xj550r. Ive never worked on bikes before but I'm a pretty fast learner. Where should I start? I have to replace the solenoid to get it started. And then what? What would be a common checklist for this type of bike? As fas as replacing parts and cleaning them and what not. Also, what is the best cleaning/polishing product for the motor?

 

The first thing you need is a service manual.

Then go through the "maintenance" section, item by item, leaving nothing out. That's the best "blueprint."

Start with checking the valve clearances and getting a compression test. Then you'll know if or what major problems you might have, or if it's a viable motor and it will make sense to proceed. It makes no sense to sink a bunch of time and effort into a bike if it's going to need major engine work, BEFORE finding that out.

The "short" list is valves, carbs, brakes, tires, electrical.

For starters, don't assume the solenoid is bad. It COULD BE, but there are a lot of other possibilities that can fool you.

 

The guy said the solenoid got stolen.. Does that even happen haha? And post an update after I repleace the solenoid. And another question, would ebay be the best place to buy parts? Or is there another website if I dont want to get a paypal account.

 

OK, so now I'm home.

Here's the REAL list:

The best place to start is to get a set of manuals. I say "set" because the aftermarket book (Clymer for the 550s) has a lot of gaps that are covered by the factory book, but the factory book is sparse on details that are covered by the Clymer.

While you're waiting for the manuals to arrive, read the first six or so linked articles in here under "Cool Hand Luke:" http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=27544.html

Best practice is to go through the "maintenance" section in the manual, procedure by procedure, skipping none and leaving nothing out. Along the way you will discover what needs to be cleaned, renewed, refurbished or outright replaced. If you DO ALL of it, the bike can and will be quite reliable afterward. My '83 550R (see pic below) has rolled 9600+ miles on the odo since I put it back on the road, with nothing more than regular oil changes and a couple of chain adjustments, and another new rear tire.

Here's a basic list:

- check tires, condition, and date codes.

- inspect wheel rims for damage or excessive runout.

- check front brake pads.

- inspect disc brake calipers for damage, wear (thickness), or excessive warpage/runout.

- VISUALLY check rear brake shoes for wear/delamination; adjust rear brake pedal linkage. This is very important. Delamination is common, the only way to detect it is to SEE it. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

- inspect/lube/adjust/replace final drive chain and sprockets. Keep an eye on the chain. If it "bleeds red" when being lubed and won't hold adjustment, it's rusted internally and will need to be replaced. Always replace both sprockets with a chain.

- check and adjust if needed operation of front and rear brake light switches.

- replace rubber brake hoses (check the mfg date stamped in them).

- unless known to be otherwise, plan on rebuilding the brake master cylinder and caliper(s).

- check and clean/replace the air filter element.

- change all fluids: fork oil, engine oil, and brake fluid.

- check and repair any engine or drivetrain/suspension fluid leaks.

NOTE: almost any original oil seal or engine case gasket will need to be replaced when its cover is removed for the first time.

- check and adjust/lubricate/replace steering head bearings.

- check and adjust/lubricate/control cables and speedometer and tachometer (if applicable) drive cables..

- check and adjust/replace rear shock absorbers. (If they have over 8K miles they're done.)

- electrical system inspection, rebuild or replace fusebox and most probably alternator brushes.

- check battery condition; replenish fluid (distilled water only!).

- clean the battery terminals.

- check all lights for proper operation and brightness (headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, dash illumination).

- check horns for proper operation and loudness.

- check stator resistance.

- check rotor resistance.

- check battery.

- check coil primary, secondary, plug caps resistance.

- check and adjust camchain tensioner.

- check and adjust valve clearances; record your findings.

- check engine cylinder compression; record your findings.

- drain carbs, check for foreign matter in bowls, install in-line fuel filter.

- check function/operation of fuel petcock; correct any leaks and/or rebuild the petcock if indicated.

After all that (and having corrected anything that needed attention along the way,)

-Install a new set of properly gapped NGK D8EA spark plugs, and with a fully charged battery, clean air filter, fresh gas and a little luck it might fire up.

Nothin' to it.

Note that this DOESN'T include a basic "carb service" procedure as described in the manuals, and the necessary adjustments afterward. Float levels need to be wet-set, you need to do a good bench sync, and then a running vacuum sync. But there's a lot to be done before then. Start with the above.

It's worth it.

 

Oh, sorry-- for all the parts you're gonna need, get ahold of XJ4Ever.

Click the logo/link in the site banner, upper right, PM member chacal, or send an email to "info AT XJ4Ever DOT com" with your info.

The bike I posted the pic of would not have been possible without XJ4Ever.

 

Thank you very much bigfitz, its going to be a long weekend but i can't wait. And you're bike.. Well she's a dime. And is it reall possible for a solenoid to get stolen? Or could this guy be jacking me around? I'm going to be getting the bike for 300. Is that a good deal or should i try haggling some more?

 

Fitz did you tell him how to clean the motor?? Your posts are so informative I don't know if I missed it or not. So here is my suggestion forgive me if you already hit upon this.

Best way to clean an old bike:

1) Start with the easiest most accessible places. Use armor all or similar on all the vinyl, rubber, etc. Use WD-40 to clean all the electrical wires. If needed expose good clean metal in the connection with a brush or sandpaper and smear with di-electric grease.

2) Don't spray high pressure water in places it shouldn't be. Anywhere there are bearings or sensitive electrical equipment. You can use a degreaser (they are all pretty good) and a good stiff nylon brush to scrub the motor and various parts and then hose it all off before it dries. You can use the car wash high pressure just be careful and it's a good idea to use the degreaser before this as the dirt will basically just pop off.

3) Polish is mostly about elbow grease. There are different brands and some are higher rated than others. Mostly if you have just a tarnished part then clean, and polish will do it. If the clearcoat is peeling then you will have to remove it first with a fine abrasive 600-2000 grit and then polish. Use car wax or polish on painted parts that still look good.

Don't forget about your chain. It's important to clean, check, and re-lube it often. I agree with Fitz about XJ4Ever, you won't find a better parts supplier for these bikes. You can find parts elsewhere-ebay, auto parts store (good for use items like filters, plugs), online moto parts supplier-but you have no gaurantee with ebay or online moto guys, sometimes the parts are wrong or no good. XJ4Ever always gets it right, price is decent, and service is stellar.

If I missed anything please someone else jump in.

Good Luck and welcome to XJBikes and to your new obsession

 

$300 is typically a good deal as the bike not running is worth more just in parts. BUT....you don't want a pile of junk you want a running bike so you need to know more about the bike. Any other problems besides the starter? Is it missing anything else? Does it have good compression?

If these questions are all answered with No, No, Yes. Then it's a damn good deal at $300, If not it's still worth it, but maybe not to you but rather a parts dealer. And no I've never heard of anyone stealing a solenoid but who knows??

 

I just got off the phone with him and I was told that he replaced the boots, it needs an air filter, compression was good last time he rode it(2 months ago, before the solenoid was stolen), it needs an igntion switch, and he hasnt touched the shocks since he's owned it which is about a year. How often should you replace shocks? Also the odometer says around 15000 miles, but it is not working.. Whats your opinion? And one more thing, can an odometer be fixed? And would it even be worth it to do?

 

Also needs a petcock.. How much and how hard/easy would it be to replace?

 

Hmmm.. the plot thickens. I really hate when people string out the surprises on a sale! Just be up front straight away and I'm more likely to buy from you.

First, you can't trust anything a seller says. He may be shooting you straight or he may just be looking to sell. It's up to you to determine the truth as best you can. Air filter is easy (don't buy from Yamaha dealer $50 can be found for $16), compression 'was' good (not helpful)? Shocks if they are original will need to be replaced and or worked on, shop charges about $140 for front seals or you can do it for $40 new springs would be more, back you can do but they aren't cheap (good ones $220), Ignition switch varies a lot but can be found for $30 (it's best to find it with the tank latch so the keys match), Odometer can be fixed no big deal, but not working could be a big deal as you have no idea the actual mileage. Petcock is easy to fix if its still there, just a rebuild not expensive or hard.

If you are serious about this bike I would get a starter for it and tell him that you will need to fix this part of the bike and compression test it before you buy (you can borrow a tester from Autozone for free). If the bike turns out to be toast (blows low numbers or no compression) then you could sell the starter to recoup your money. Either that or tell him since you can't test the compression, or even check that it runs, and it needs so much work, tell him you priced it all out and it's around $800 to fix. That the most you could offer is $200 and negotiate from there, but $300 w/o knowing the rest could leave you with a BIG project if the motor needs serious repair.

Either way one of these old classics in any condition will take extra money to make it safe and right. If you could find one in really great road ready shape they are usually about $1000, and typically need at least $400 in short order anyway. So you might end up with a great deal, or you might end up slightly in the hole and needing to fix a lot. They are great bikes but use your head to decide not your heart. It's your call.

 

Here is a pic of my '81 550 about 70% of the way to it's final restoration. I have done work since so I guess I need to snap a new shot. But this gives you an idea of how one is suppose to look. Got this one for $700 and had $250 into in this pic, now at $450, so it's an $1150 outlay.

 

Where is the best place besides ebay , to buy the service manuals I need?

 

Hardcopy or on CD? Haynes, Factory, Chilton?? What are you wanting?