Getting a shine from rattle can VHT black gloss enamel

I had some areas on my tank that had lost their paint & metal was showing (glossy black Yama tank). I taped off the area to keep the pin striping intact & sprayed a black primer & then when dry I sprayed 4 coats of black VHT glossy engine enamel. I let it dry three days.

I saw the rattle paint was not beautiful glossy and the surface was like the tops of thousands of little bubble tops. I needed to make the new paint & old surface smooth where they met so I used 450 grit wet paper with a block to get the two surfaces smooth with no dips where they met.

Thing is the gloss was no longer glossy and you can see the two paints as gloss vs non-gloss. I used 1500 wet paper to try and blend the surfaces and hopefully get a shine out of it but no, just two smooth black surfaces with the new paint looking slate gray instead of glossy.

I expected when wet that they would look as one but they don't and though it looks better than it did when I started, I'd like the tank to be one color and that to be highly reflective. I have clear coat to put on it but since I can see the two paints when wet, I suspect that will show when clear coated as well. I tried some 0000 steel wool and it didn't help any but the new paint is level now with no "bubble tops" as a finish.

I used a very soft towel and rubbed the new but dull enamel and a darker shine came to it. If it were a bit more shiny, it would be pretty darned close to clear coat time. Some of where I levelled out the paint went onto the Yama clear coat and that is now showing scuffs. Whatever will remove those scuffs is likely what I need to match the gloss of the original tanks look.

How can I better get a shiny surface on this spray painted, wet sanded enamel?

 

Clear coat--USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol : Amazon.com .

 

I had to take mine all the way back with 220 and then used a high build, sandable primer to give complete coverage before using the finish coat. Followed that with 800 wet/dry + another coat + 1000 wet/dry + another coat + 2000 wet/dry....then I took it took a spray shop to have them polyurethane the clear coat [$50.00].......if you don't go with the urethane clear, spilt gas will have you crying ++...and starting over again...

Dave

 

If I'm reading this correctly, you're gloss will come with the clear coat which will also get rid of your scuff marks as well.

 

The final step after wet sanding with 2000 grit paper is to polish to bring back the gloss. Sanding alone will not get there. A foam pad with liquid polishing compound is needed with a low speed polishing tool. A drill can also work. Adding clear coat will bring back the gloss but you will have the "orange peel" look. It will also need sanding and polishing to have that high gloss.

 

Orange peel usually comes from the application not the prep work

 

Agreed and matching existing gloss is hard to do.

 

The wet sanding is only the first step in the shine process. Some degree of orange peeling is inevitable ,and wet sanding through several grades ,is to take the suface imperfections away ( I finish with a 2000 wet and dry) This will give you a very even but dull surface. Then you have to use special buffing compounds to achieve the gloss, preferably with an electric buffer, being careful to keep it moving. I always put 7 coats on to give plenty of meat for the sanding process. Even if you clear coat, you will have to still go through this proccess of getting rid of the orange peel in the clear coat ,then buffiing , to get the best shine. On the buffing ,I do medium cut, light cut then swirl remover. If your doing metalic paints ,you dont cut back the base coat , only the clear coat. Hope this helps ,
cheers, Murray

 

Clear coat--USC Spray Max 2k High Gloss Clearcoat Aerosol : Amazon.com .

The above is gasoline proof, comes in a two part spray can that you activate before spraying, works great, and costs about $25. My tank had acrylic clear coat (po applied) and it peeled off when gas got on it. I called USC and spoke with a technician who advised me to remove all the loose clear coat, sand smooth and apply the USC clear coat over it. I did and it worked great. You will get some orange peel which can be sanded out with 800, 1200, 1500, and 2000 grit wet dry paper. Then use polishing compound (not rubbing compound) to get a very high gloss. Follow the directions and don't let the compound dry while working it.

 

I've never done painting like this before so it's all new to me. These answers are what I needed to know. I probably should just repaint the whole tank and have it all be the same paint underneath but if I did I'd loose the two pinstripes on the sides & I'd like to keep them.

Thanks for the replies!

 

If you decide to sand out the pin striping you are in for a lot of work. Patch repairing always shows especially under street lights. If you are really fussy about your paintwork you will end up doing side panels and rear tail section. You will achieve an even colour.

But as before ensure you use fuel stable top coat / lacquer on your tank.

good luck.