clutch problem

So I finally got my 83 XJ750 maxim running this weekend. After some carb problems and a few other things, it finally runs, needs a carb sync and probubly a colortune, but its running.

Unfortunately as things seams to happen. Once one thing works, something else is wrong. The bike runs, but clutch doesn't work, I've tried every adjustment i can think of, but being only 21 and this being my first bike, I've run out of ideas and am looking for suggestions.

The clutch will not engage. I've tried tightening the cable as much as possible, from both ends. That didn't seam to make an difference. I moved the clutch lever so that I could try to tighten it more, but that also didn't work. The bike sat for 2 years so I'm thinking that a plate or 2 might be set up, so i'm going to take it to a parking lot somewhere close and see if i can get anything to come lose by running it around a little.

After that I'm out of ideas so Any suggestions are welcome

 

Ok I'm a bit confused here..... the clutch wont engage or wont disengage the drive train?
If it wont disengage and the cable moves the lever... you may have a problem.
when you move the clutch lever all the way in does the arm on the case travel farther when you try to move it by hand or is it moving the full distance?

 

Try doing this first.
Put the bike on the workstand.
Select 1st Gear.

Using a large Crescent wrench ... pad the jaws and use it to "exercise" the throw-out lever attached to the rod extending into the clutch case ten times.

With the throw-out lever pushed-up (force on wrench is down) -- rotating the throw-out rod fully Clockwise ... try rotating the rear wheel.

Rear wheel rotates? Yes ... Adjust mechanical clutch cables and linkages - complete.

No? Internal examination of clutches will be necessary. The possibility of severely burned and very heavily warped DRIVEN PLATES, major GALLING to CLUTCH BASKET BOSSES or some foriegn object.

Examine magnet on the OIL DRAIN PLUG. Tiny chunks of metal or HEAVY accumulation of shavings (Chia head syndrome) ... will indicate damage that needs to be further investigated.
..........

If you have a cat for a pet, at home ... hold it up over the seat and make three or four circular motions counter-clockwise. You'll get the results of the "Cat Scan" in a few days !!!




Disconnect cable-end linkage above clutch cover.
Remove cable end from "Clip-in" on lever connected to throw-out rod.
Lube threads on cable-end adjustment so nuts will spin freely.

Service clutch lever components on handlebar control.
Remove knurl cable-slack adjuster.
Lube adjuster and threads where it inserts.
Replace Knurl.
Screw it ALL THE WAY IN until it seats ... then OUT 2-1/2 turns ... LOCK it with the thumb wheel.

Back downstairs:

Run the 1st Hex-nut on the cable-end adjuster all the way to the top.
Place cable end in the clip.
Place threaded end in holder.

Check that upstairs cable end is IN the knurl adjuster all the way.

Lift clutch throw-out arm removing free-play.
Slide threaded end of cable sheath UP holding throw-out lever firmly up.
Adjust top hex nut on threaded end to hold threaded section in place with NO free play.
Spin lower hex nut up to "Hold" everything in this position.
Check that upstairs clutch cable sheath is secure in adjustment knurl.
(If possible ... have someone hold it in there)

Downstairs:
Pull the slack out of the cable (down) ... to pull the hand-grip clutch lever all the way tight.
Push the threaded adjustment UP tightening sheath. Make any further adjustment to the top hex nut.

You should now have the preliminary adjustment done.
The hand-grip lever is tight to the pivot.
The upstairs cable is tight in the knurl adjustment,
The knurl is adjusted 2.5 turns OUT
The downstairs cable end is secured in mount with adjustment hex nuts holding the throw-out lever tight ... with NO end play.

If you have the preliminary adjustment correct -- Lock-up the downstairs hex-nuts.

Final adjustments.
Road test. Bring the wrenches for downstairs hex nut adjustment.
If the clutch is adjusted so that you have NO 1st gear jump, NO red-light creep, NO finding neutral fight, and sweet Up and Down shifting ... your done!

If the bike jumps into gear. Creeps forward in 1st with the clutch lever pulled all the way to the grip ...
Loosen lower hex.
Tighten upper hex -- 2 flats.

You should now be in XJ-Series Adjusted Clutch Heaven.

Any further fine tuning ... related to weather conditions or cable stretch or expansion of the clutches from riding your bike "like a young farm boy on the family mule heading-out to the circus" can be done at the upstairs cable knurl adjustment.

Hold the applause!!!
_________________
RickCoMatic
'83 YAMAHA XJ900RK - Seca 900
'83 YAMAHA XJ750RM - Custom

 

I seem to catch neutral from time to time when kicking up into 2nd, it shifts through but doesn't sound happy at all. Not all the time, but it does happen.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong.

 

That just happend to me last night. It kind of freaked me out at first, because I had never had the bike stick in neutral out of first like that.

 

Rick, I'll try that tomorrow after work. Thanks for the advice.

Hvnbnd,
The Clutch will not disengage from the drivetrain is what is happening. Sorry if me explaination was a little vague, I was a little distracted by the family when I was typing it and forgot to proofread anything.

 

Sounds like you need to be sure whether or not your moving the throw out lever all the way.

CAT SCAN........ AWESOME!!!! I love it!!! Why didn't I think of that?

 

OK.I got her up on the center stand.put bike into gear turned engine off.did the ten twist of the lever with a wrench.Gave her a one more twist,then tried to rotate wheel without letting go of wrench on lever.She didn't spin very well at all?Leading me to beleive she needs a inspection of her inards.Dam.I started biek as well while I had her up gave clutch pull tried to stop wheel.She didnt really want to stop(THus in 1st).So doc what ya think?

 

Without being able to actually touch the bike ... it becomes a guessing game. I'll give you my best guesses. If the rear tire that came on the bike looks really, really beat ... that's a clue. If the rear tire is brand new ... that's another clue.

Ask the former owner if he has any idea what might be wrong.
Find-out if the bike got a NEW clutch; recently.

We can pop-off that Clutch-cover and start to figure it out for ourselves; though.

Pull-off the cover.
Conduct a "Magnetic sweep" of the area below the clutch assembly for metal fragments.

Check that all the parts on the end of the throw-out rod ... particularly the RELEASE PINION are correctly installed at the end of the rod. See:

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx (#22,23,24)

Check that the release pinion and the push rod are not stripped or the rod ( 2 ) unable to make its full travel. (#2 & 22)

Look for loose or missing Flange Bolts (# 15 )

If that inspection goes OK ... Pull the bolts and start-in removing the clutches -- one plate at a time -- making note of how easy or difficult it is to remove.

(Stuck plates from heavy additives -- stuck plates from abuse galling -- stuck (really badly stuck plates) -- from installing a new clutch using the WRONG replacement clutches. (Knuckle-head repair)

Check the ORDER of the plates for Knuckle-headed replacement. They should be alternated. A FRICTION PAD PLATE followed by a solid steel DRIVEN PLATE. (If it is Knuckle-headed ... order a complete NEW clutch from Barnett or EBS. Frictions and Drivers -- WITH all the new hardware.)

If the clutches aren't Knuckle-headed ... get them out and check the edges of the Bosses on the Basket. If the Bosses are all chewed-up, nicked or dinged-up bad -- its a lot easier to put-in a good used basket than machine (or have a shop machine) the Bosses smooth and clean.

If you get all jammed-up and need a little coaching through this adventure ... email me at: xj900Owner@aol.com -- to keep all the chatter from clogging the site ... or just call me.

 

Rick,

Thanks for the advice, I was just going about things the wrong way. And your advice pointed me in the right direction. My problem wasn't that it wouldn't disengage, it was that i had the throw lever too tight. So after Getting that working and riding around for a couple of minutes I had to figure out why my shifting pattern was upside down.

After a few minutes I figured out that the previous owner had put the gear selector on wrong. After fixing that I finally got to ride my XJ. but an 18 pack of beer for the bike, and a month of work, Its not too bad. but it definately needs some more work, and a carb tuning.

I got to ride around for about 20 minutes. and then the electrical gremlins caught up with me and the bike just died. and being after dark I just loaded it up and took it home.

Tomorrow... I'm chasing electrical gremlins.

 

I seem to be having a similar problem. I got things running, adjusted the idle down to about 1800rpm..
Up on the center stand running in Neutral.. I decided to see if everything turned. Dropped her into 1st (clutch lever in..) and ... STALL. Adjusted the cable.. seemed to be the same. I tried removing the push lever and manually tried moving the wheel while in gear - seems that the clutch is not releasing.
Just changed the oil too.. but it seems that I need to drain it, pull the cover and see 'what's what'. My guess is that the plates are all stuck together, since the bike hasn't been ridden for 5 years or so.

Any easier trick to get the clutch to disengage before I drain and pull everything?

 

I had to clean all of the clutch plates - they were REALLY gummed up after they sat for years!

By simply leaning the bike on its side stand and bracing it (so it would lean a bit further) I was able to do the work without draining my new oil.

wow - what a difference clean plates make!