New 1985 Maxim 700 Owner

Hey everyone, just wanted to say hello. I just bought a 1985 Maxim, and love it.

I opened up the Indicator pannel to look at the fuses. It looks like there should be 4 fuses, but mine only has 3. Does any one have a picture of what each fuse is used for?

The bike does start up and run, but only if I hot wire it. I installed a new kill switch and starter button, but it will not start. Any ideas why this might be?

I really appreciate any help I can get here, I would really like to restore this bike the right way, rather than connecting one of those cheap starter buttons.

 

Hotwire.
explain.
Is it you're jumping the wires in the headlight bucket and the starter button works?
Or are you bridging the solenoid under the seat with a screwdriver or something and the button on the handlebar doesn't work.

 

Also, I have an 85 Maxim X and only have four fuses.
but one of those is for my radiator fan.
I have one for lights, one for coils (ignition not starter), one for the fan, and one for the flashers.
Also there should be a Main fuse (30A) that is separate, under the seat not at the indicator panel.

 

Hey Redemption,

I am currently bridging the solenoid under the seat with a screwdriver, exactly like you mentioned above.

I bought an OEM starter/kill switch, but only the kill switch work, not the starter.

Ok, the fuses make sense then. I am only using three, headlight, flashers, and ignition. I do not have a radiator fan, at least i dont think i do.

Thanks!

 

Hey Redemption,

I am currently bridging the solenoid under the seat with a screwdriver, exactly like you mentioned above.

I bought an OEM starter/kill switch, but only the kill switch work, not the starter.

Ok, the fuses make sense then. I am only using three, headlight, flashers, and ignition. I do not have a radiator fan, at least i dont think i do.

Thanks!

 

The airhead 700 has an extra unused space for a fuse. The panel face should have a label on the inside showing what each fuse is for.
Recheck the wiring for the switch you replaced. Do you have a voltmeter or test light? Are the handlebars painted? The switch gets it's ground through the bars so painted bars would cause problems.

 

Welcome.

Gary

 

so the causes should be:
A. Bad wire from switch to solenoid. (check both ends, i know my connection at the solenoid was COMPLETELY corroded when i got my bike)
B. Bad ground from switch housing to handlebar.
Just to reiterate.

 

Could be a few things. I would start with the switch you replaced and work my way to the headlight bucket first.

 

Great, thank for the help from the both of you! I will check the wires and handle bar. I do think that it is the solenoid has burnt out from just bridging the leads with a screwdrive.

 

Easy way to test the solenoid is by bridging the pole that the signal wire( not the two thick ones) to a ground point with jumper wire. Itll kick over if the solenoid is good and best of all it takes all of 30 sec to test.

 

You do not want to ground the ignition wire. That only causes a short. You could have a bad solenoid, but it's best to start at the beginning and work your way back. Especially since work was done there and a problem came up.

 

Im not saying the ignition wire im saying the signal, the blie/red or w/e 18gauge wire.

 

Welcome from Wisconsin!

Update your location and signature so we know where you're from and what bike you have

 

xRedemptionx
PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2012 4:10 pm Post subject: Re: New 1985 Maxim 700 Owner
Im not saying the ignition wire im saying the signal, the blie/red or w/e 18gauge wire.

The 2 large terminals on the solenoid are hot from battery and hot to starter when the switch is activated. The small terminal with 18ga. wire is the ignition circuit that becomes hot when pushing the starter button and activates the solenoid.
My airhead 700 has only 1 18ga. blue/white wire to the ignition terminal. Your extra wire on the X model is a return current to the light circuit.
Neither of these wires should be grounded to check switch while the wires are still attached because it would short the ignition circuit. Unattached: yes, but these switches are so small that you probably wouldn't feel or hear the click. Besides, that test wouldn't tell you how strong the switch is or if current is getting to the terminal.
It would be best to check the terminal for current with a voltmeter when the starter button is activated for volts and amps.

 

I got the bike running! It still needs a little work. The solenoid did fix the starter button issue like you guys said. The throttle is not at responsive as I thought it would be. Sometimes I will give it a little throttle, and it will take a few seconds before the bike responds. I have noticed the bike will backfire everyonce in awhile when I go to shut it off. Also when I started it up in the am it idles really low (700-800 rmp), even after I let it run for a few mins. Even after it runs for a bit, and I start riding, if I sit at a light it will stall. Then in the afternoon, it idle is high (3k rpm). Its like this bike has a mind of its own.

 

NO, it's like the carbs need to be cleaned, floats wet-set and then sync'ed.

After the valve clearances are in spec.

Your symptoms are not the least bit unusual; simply the outward effects of neglected maintenance.

You shouldn't be riding it if the brakes are original.

 

Fitz hit it exactly, however I will also say that you did do the right thing:

1. you bought an xj
2. you got it to run

Now, you need to do a LOT of other things of which NONE are difficult.

R&R the brake system
do the carbs
Check compressions
check and adjust valve clearances
get good rubber under you

NOW you can take it for a real ride.

Welcome aboard, I'm sure you'll stay awhile.

Welcome to the Hotel XJ-fornia--You can check in any time, but you can never leave................

dave f