Seized oil filter bolt

Hello all,
Trying to do an oil change and can't get the oil filter bolt off. I tryed vise grips first. I then cut a slot in the hex to use my impact driver. I snapped the drive bit. Any idea on how to remove? I have a new on so I don't need the old.
Thanks,
Jeff. :idea:

 

I had the same problem on 2 of the 750’s, first one I had to grind the old head off and weld on a bigger nut on, second one same again but managed to tap it out. I think you can buy a new bolt from Xj4Ever that has a bigger head than the standard one for more leverage, this makes filter changes much easier.
Al

 

Wow. That sounds like fun! NOT. I can only blame myself, I did the last change. You list a master cylinder change. Is it better and what kind did you use? I've been thinking on doing that and losing the anti-dive forks. Any ideas

 

Snapped the drive bit on an impact driver? Seriously?

I guess the advice would be to buy somewhere other than Harbor Freight.

Seriously, though, what if you just used a cheater bar? I put mine on too tight first time I did it, and had a serious scare taking it off next time... But a short cheater bar and slow pressure eventually got it loose.

I'd just hammer it real good, spray some penetrating oil (ironic, I know), and cheater bar away. If the head breaks off, with what you're doing, you're not that far from square 1 anyways.

(I recommend two people--one on the cheater bar, and one holding the socket at the correct angle... and don't use a cheap socket.)

 

Palva,
You are going to need a new oil filter bolt or switch over to a spin on filter, Len aka chacal has what you need.
To get the old one off you will need a welder or someone who has a welder and that can weld. Find a large nut and weld it over the damaged hex on your original bolt. Then use a 6 point socket with a short breaker bar. Gently apply pressure with a tugging motion. It should come loose. If by chance it breaks off or does not come out you will have to grind the head of the bolt off. That can be tricky not to damage the filter housing.

 

You don't need to go through all that.

You can use a damaged bolt remover socket (link for pic only, you don't need to buy a whole set unless you want to) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P

You can also buy the sockets individually; usually a well-stocked AutoZone will have the Irwin version.

One of those on a breaker bar should do the trick.

 

and as someone else mentioned, if nothing else, just grind the head.

Personally, I don't bother with all the welding stuff......if I get one in that is stuck, I just grind the head completely off and as soon as the shoulder gets weak enough, the spring inside will make everything 'pop' out. Then I just remove everything else as normal, unscrew the rest of the bolt. Then I get a new bolt, or grab another out of the parts boxes.

Whatever works for you..........

Dave F

 

Thanks guys for the suggestions,
I've cut a slot in the nut so "damaged bolt remover socket" will not work here.
The impact driver I was using was a Sears (Craftsman) brand. I try to stay away from harbor freight for tools. I'm going to grind off the nut very carefully and see where that gets me. Does any one have a pic or part # for the spin on type? Do you still use the filter cover?

 

Understand that the nut is not a nut and the washer is not a washer.

That whole thing is a solid piece, at the end of a long, hollow bolt with the oil-pressure relief valve in it. Like Dave said, if you grind it away, grind through the "nut" and keep going; once the "washer" portion is sufficiently thinned it should come apart easily. If done carefully you won't endanger the housing.

The spin-on option is a "kit" that eliminates the original filter housing.

XJ4Ever offers the kit and a few different filter options to go with.

 

I only had to remove mine once, and that was to put a spin on kit on.

Head was buggered, so I just turned the whole housing. (this method will sheer off the housing locator tab)

 

Hey darkfibre, did you break the tab first?

Last oil change I was just putting in summer oil, without filter change but wanted to drop the housing. When the damaged bolt remover didn't work, the first thought in my head was to lightly chisel the tab and have my own "spin-on" assembly.

 

If you pull the Exhaust Pipes, ...

You cann Grab the SHOULDERED SECTION of the End of the Bolt with a Pipe Wrench.

A Small Pipe Wrench and a Length of Pipe to slip-on the Handle of the Wrench as a "Persuader" will loosen that Bolt.

After you get it out, ... Replace it if is Chewed-up.

Apply Anti-seize to the first 20mm pf the Bolt.
Torque to Specs.

 

I had to do this, and Fitz's method eventually worked (using the stripped bolt remover sockets). Spent A LOT of time doing it, and just as I was about to give up (using a breaker bar and an extension to clear the pipes is difficult to apply) I went for one last go and gave it my all; finally came loose. I think I freaked out my neighbors a bit when I screamed for joy...

 

Teflon-Tape or apply Anti-Seize Compound to 22mm of the NEW Oil Filter Bolt when you get one.

Don't over-tighten the Bolt when you install the new one.

Find a spot on the wall of your work-space, where you can glance for reference, and write " 31 / 11 " where you can readily see it.

31 = 31 FtLbs. Torque --> Crankcase Drain Plug
11 = 11 FtLbs. Torque --> Oil Filter Dome Bolt