Valve cover oil leak

Well to let you guys know I did replaced it myself two times. The first time I got it in following instructions I found here. It worked for a hundred miles and then in that same area the gasket got pushed out and started leaking. The donuts were all replaced. The reason I did the gasket in the first place is the gasket was being pushed out that corner and the oil was leaking as it is now in a very constant drip. The second time I replaced it I had a helper that told me his side was good and he missed a whole spot which tore up that gasket then I got frustrated and took it in to see if someone else could fix it. Now because it seems to be having the same problem in the same spot I have to believe the cover is warped in some way and I have no idea how that happened. One day the cover was good the next I cannot get a gasket to stay seated in that area. This is why I am getting frustrated besides the fact I only have about two months to ride a year and having it down waiting on parts gets old.

 

I'd say the trick, like bigfitz said, is gluing the gasket to the cover before you try to put it all back together. Changing the donuts was easy enough but the gasket would not stay in the groove of the cover at all on its own. I had rtv laying around and thought I'd get away without having to buy more sealant that would end up laying around but I'll have to buy it and another gasket the next time around.

 

Forgot to add, that is the exact same spot I had problems with my gasket adventure.

 

Since it keeps happening in the same place whether you did it or someone else does, I would be suspicious of the channel in the cover that the gasket sits in. Either you have excess adhesive or a blemish in the metal itself. Unfortunately I think it is dubious to expect your shop is going to take the time to figure this one out considering time is money...

 

I bet that if you got an allan wrench and pulled any of the bolts up, you'd find that the donuts were NOT replaced. I'd even bet the shop doesn't even know HOW to replace the donuts themselves.

We shall see.

Next thing.......here is a suggestion for everyone else to put in their little bag of tricks. I have had numerous times that I would find a gesket that had 'been sliced apart', or otherwise separated (or nearly separated) at one or more of the corners by the half-moons. Turned out in each case, that the metal edge of the head had a very sharp edge from the original machining that was literally slowly cutting it's way through the gasket. So, I use a very fine machinists metal file to just remove the 'burr', but not enough to change the shape of the corners. I do all four points at the half- moons, and haven't had any more gaskets cut, or failures there. FWIW

Dave F

 

A new Cover Gasket, properly installed, shouldn't leak and should be good for several removals of the Valve Cover before needing a new one.
Mine is Original and has been reused over 5 times.
The key is to clean the Gasket Surface and the Head Mating Surface with Alcohol or Carb Cleaner and LUBE BOTH SURFACES before carefully mounting the Cover and Tightening the Fasteners down to finger tight and aligning the Cover just before final torquing.
Pliable Rubber Donuts is a MUST.
The Pressure exerted on the Cover by the "Squished" Donuts creates the Oill Tight Seal.

::: Temporary Measures :::

Install a O-ring between the Collar and Donut.
Add some compression.
If you cannot get the O-ring OVER the Collar or Donut, ... Split the O-ring on a BIAS and thread it below the Collar.

 

What was the name/part number of that red stuff you used Bigfitz?

 

"Stuff" can't eliminate a Valve Cover Leak.
You have to resort to installing the cover with a properly fitted Gasket and Rubber Donuts capable of exerting the necessary force on the Gasket to make it Oil Tight.

Until such time as the Donuts and Gasket are renewed and capable you can try to cheat.

Shoot some PERMATEX "High-Tack Spray-a-Gasket" into a Tuna Can.
Use an Artists Paint Brush to apply two coats to the Gasket and Head Mating Surfaces.

That should hold-back a leak until the New Parts you need to install to permanently stop the leak arrive.

 

Permatex (NAPA) High-Tack Spray-a-gasket; the same stuff Rick is talking about.

I'm using it to prepare a clutch gasket in the pic below; "decant" some into a suitable container and apply with a brush as Rick suggests (and as I did in the valve adjustment article.)

 

I had all new parts from Len when I went to fix the leak.

 

::: What do you use to clean the over-spray off from the cement? :::

 

If you took it to this SHOP you wouldn't have any issues. They specialize in vintage Japanese bikes and cafe racers.

 

brake cleaner or lacquer thinner. Or let it wear off.