rattle can spraying ,what could've gone wrong

i was gutted today , i spent absolutely ages in the previous weeks renovating my handlebar controls and (allthough i say myself )i was dooing a decent job.




but tday i came to put the final coat of clear coat on the caliper, master cylinder,clutch lever and holder, and something went wrong,
this is after 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of black spray gloss, and one coat of clear.



photo a bit blurred but this is before final clear coat, and they looked brill.

after i sprayed the caliper i opened my workshop door for some ventilation
and anything i sprayed after that, went all milky and dull.

i would add that it was a cold damp day.
could the cold/damp have reacted with the clear coat,
the calliper turned out great, anything after i opened the door, went milky

its hard to see, but the top of the master cylinder, is milky black.


i will add that i salvaged the day by using "t cut" then polish, on some of the flatter pieces, and they came out ok ,nice shiny black.

not too sure it will work on the top of the master cyl.
though due to all the lettering.


soooo, what could've gone wrong, should i have heated the workshop prior to spraying,??
i did warm the spray cans in warm water prior to spraying.
should i have warmed the spray pieces up also.
or just kept the door shut??? :roll: :?
thanks
stu

 

It's great if the paint is warm, but the items you are painting also need to be warm. Cold air from outside will also have an effect. (Just painted the tank/panels on my 400 and used about 5 cans of color and 4 of clear).
Also depends on the paint that you use. Krylon sucks, if you can go with Rustoleum.
I'd recommend taking the MC cover and sanding it on a flat surface so the letters/raised surfaces ge the 'brushed' aluminum look. Just did that to mine, looks sweet.
For other items wet sand with 1500/2000, then use a polish compound like Meguire's. Should make the clear look like glass.
Good luck!

 

don't do anything, it might clear up by itself but that paint will never stay on the master cylinder

 

As Polock said, when hardened the clear coat might get better (I had some similar effects whit a cheap clear coat, looked milky and yellow but after a while it turned clear)

And did you use the same brand of paint and clear coat?

 

Try a small area with some 'T' cut, it was probably the temp'.

 

Are you sure the fumes didn't cloud your judgement? LOL Same thing happened to me, it was a old can of clear. Rattle can paint can very from manufacturer to manufacturer, age, too hot, too cold and moisture, rattle can clear is even worse.

 

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And did you use the same brand of paint and clear coat?
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err, no primer was u-pol black gloss was halfords own brand (a local car accessory shop) clearcoat was car plan.
but the control switches turned out great using same products. ----did'nt they?

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but that paint will never stay on the master cylinder
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yeh,!! i know what you mean, had problems on previous bikes with brake fluid.
just have to be extra carefull with it
cheers
stu

 

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it was a old can of clear. Rattle can paint can very from manufacturer to manufacturer, age, too hot, too cold and moisture, rattle can clear is even worse.
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ahh,-- i think you could have hit on part of the problem, it was a "very" old can of clear.
i'll get new supplies for the other caliper, and keep the temp constant.
stu

 

Temp & Humidity are critical. If you're using a hydrophobic paint (like 99% of it) then cold and damp is a BAD thing. Old clearcoat is equally bad as it develops oxides as it gets old which react and cause microscopic bubbles (hence cloudy/milky). It should look a little better after it has fully cured. And the 'T' cut will improve it if your clear was just old-'t' cut removes oxidation.

Virtually everything you can buy at a retail outlet (Krylon, Rustoleum, etc.) is average at best. Better bet is a paint supplier (specialist in auto paint etc.) who manufacturers their own product. I keep a digital temp/hygrometer in the garage (they're cheap) and always shoot for the middle of the manufacturers recomendations.

Yes you're switches look nice!

 

Old cans - I don't like to use anything more than 30 days old, but not all companies put production dates on their cans.

Moisture and cold - the cooler the temp is, the less moisture percentage it takes to ruin a paint job.

All three played a part in your results.

This is what you can do with Krylon paint, 45* temps, low humidity. The parts and paint were room temp, taken outside for 5 minutes to spray, then placed in a 90* room with <50% humidity to dry.

 

Moisture condensed on the surface while it was drying (Florida - 90% humidity) and I'm with Polock - that your paint is going to peel quick on the Master.

 

The old guys use the 60/60 rule , ie if its under 60 deg. F and /or over 60% humidity, DONT spray, unless you,re in a controled environment.This has always worked for me , well, after the first F ***UP anyway. Most clear coats are particularly affected by humidity,
cheers,Murray

 

.......and what proccess did you use to get the yellow highlights on the letters so distinct. ?

 

well,, thanks for all the good advice, i'll bear that in mind when i tackle the job again.
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.......and what proccess did you use to get the yellow highlights on the letters so distinct. ?
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there just stickers i had made at a local sign shop £15 for 2 sets, then clear coat over top.

cheers
stu

 

Temp and humidity. water will cause the clear to get milky or fish eyes. It "may" clear up