hmm.. First to tell me whats wrong with this pic wins!!

so im plugging along cleaning and refurbing my carbs. . i get to carb # 2 and to my dismay.....




so now im in the market for a carb body! woo friggen who. THANKS PO... or PM.. (previous mechanic) lol

 

Wow... Just a testament to the things that you can find with a bike that has 30 years on it... Almost makes you sick to the stomach, eh?

How did it run? hahahaha!

 

At least the part is there! I've seen that part gone and a wire wrapped around the seat nut holding the side of the float up! If it is holding, and will function, I would leave it.

 

Its holding. and is pretty stout. to my awe. whatever they used it is great stuff to have survived the vibration and gasoline . i would leave it. but i dont want to chance it breaking off and flooding my engine and thinning my oil causing engine failure. ya know? i dunno. any risk in this really ? anybody have an extra Hitachi HSC32 carb body laying around they want to sell?

 

Make it easy on yourself and get the same position (1,2,3 or 4) carb, there are slight differences in fittings that can be a beotch to compensate for.

If it DID break, it could theoretically leave that one float valve wide open, yes. That's why it does pay to have a properly functioning petcock as a backup.

If it were me, I'd be shopping for a carb body too. Actually, I'd be looking for a spare RACK (or two.) Truth be told, a decent rack o'carbs can be had off eBay for not a lot of money if you know how to figure out the background of the bike being parted. My "good" spare rack was only like $50 or so.

 

Looks a little bit like goop. If it is then it will hold and you should not have to worry.

I am using that amazing goop on my saddlebags frame and it is holding well once cured. I am making some fiberglass saddlebags and the frame is 1/8'' plywood held together by wooden dowels and goop. Will stretch the cloth over it and then the resin. More cloth and more resin before sanding and painting. They are a custom fit for my 454 and I thought about making some for the maxim but do not like how the mufflers turn up thus taking up valuable space. Will have to work around that if and when....

 

goop you say? ive never heard of it. seems to be pretty legit stuff. its carb #2 and id rather replace it while im here. but i may throw it back on there till i can find a decent deal on a replacement. most racks ive seen on e bay are 150 + and i need the old steel pilot needle coarse thread. non yics carb. i dunno if the yics makes a difference?

 

You can fix it. I did it on a Hitachi. I drilled straight down the tower with a drill the size to tap a #4 brass screw. Once I made that bore I moved to a drill just large enough to clear a #4 screw. I ran that drill to the break. Next I tapped the smaller hole. Then screwed the brass screw and all was good. This requires nunber drills, at least for the tapped hole. Use a center pinch to start it and a drill press helps. Don't rush, make yourself a jig if necessary or take it to someone with better skills if you are not comfortable. You only get one stab at it but if you do it right you will know you are the man.

 

i was going to make it thinner but i couldn't get it back out :cry:

 

I admire your patience and skill to make a dovetail joint Polock. Not easy to do in metal, nice work.

 

wow *applauds* talk about patience. both of you guys lol i have a drill press and i could do it. but i already purchased a new carb body and donated the old one to the xj3D Project. lol

 

Wow. I want to save that picture.

 

I replaced one once. Bike came into the shop with it broken off.

Had a welder build up a boss. Shaped it with a file and drilled a hole for the pin. Gotta be careful to properly locate the hole for the float pin.