Deleting / moving gauges

Good day all!

I'm in the process of trying to make the gauge cluster, fuse box and warning lights look more appealing. I'm tossing a few ideas around to try and clean things up and I'd like some help with some options - what have you guys done?

Are you able to remove completely the tach and coolant temp gauge without affecting the electrical system? If so, how?

Are there any good places to move the speedo?

I wouldn't mind having a quick-disconnect for the tach so I could reconnect it for tuning purposes.

There's quite the mess of wires that go from the wire harness between all the instruments and the fusebox. This should be fun!

Anyways, let me know what you guys think!

 

Here is one version of what I have done.

 

The biggest issue that you will run into is that the gauge cluster also contains the fuse block for the bike. This will require a new fuse block to be wired in if the gauges are removed.

As far as just removing the gauges mentioned. They are easily removed with no effect on the wiring other than making sure that the wire ends are securely sealed/taped to keep them from shorting out.

Ghost

 

Well, this is my plan, but I have new 60mm gauges to replace the original ones.




and the dials looks like this

 

They look great, but of the three gauges you are rearranging the temp gauge IMHO is the critical one, what are your plans for that?
When I ride I shift by the sound of the engine and can pretty much tell by feel how fast I'm going, but have no idea if the bike is running hot.

 

Broberg, those look sweet - where did you get them? Is the speedo analogue?

I'm going to put a quick-disconnect on the tach wires, so I can put it back on to tune the bike. Already ditched the temp gauge. I think I'll leave the fuseblock where it is, because the ignition key/handlebar lock looks funny if you take the fusebox off. Then I'll extend the wires for the speedo and drop it closer to the motor, cafe style.

So many wires... hahaha!

 

I got them from http://www.digital-speedos.co.uk, they are electronic, you have the option of buying an adapter to the speedo so you can use the original wire, But I choose the proximity sensor from daytona, so I'm removing the speedo and tacho-wires from my bike.


Maxim-X, if you referred to me, I have the temp displayed in the tachometer, Don't know yet if I can use the original temp-sensor or not. hoping I can.

 

He was probably referring to me - Although at this point i've removed the temp gauge, I'm undecided if I will put one on or not.

The cooling fan goes on when the bike gets into the "hey it's pretty hot now" region. The problem i'm having is that I don't want all kinds of stuff all over the bike. I realize it's probably a good idea to keep it on the bike, but I don't know where.

The question becomes, why is the temp gauge so important? I'm on the fence. On one hand, I know very well the effects of overheating a motor. At the same time, I know how my bike reacts when it's getting hot, and I'm confident that I can identify that situation without looking at a needle to tell me that. In the end, the action taken on that condition will be the same. I'm on the fence.

 

A request from either of you guys with the X's.

I need the resitance reading from the temp sending unit in the motor. Both cold, and hot.

If you could post, or PM me the info. It would be greatly appreciated.

Ghost

 

One is still in pieces and the other won't run well enough to chance getting it hot. Sorry.

 

Ghost, I can give you the cold reading this weekend but the bike is in pieces for me as well, so I can't give you hot, unless you want to wait about 3 weeks!

 

You could put it in hot water to get a hot reading.

 

This is not a time critical issue. Anytime that you can get the info would be great. Thanx.

The critical measurement is the high resistance. No clue if it will be the hot, or cold.

The purpose for the info is to use the X gauges on a 83 750 Maxim. Using the temp gauge as a fuel level gauge with the 82 750 Maxim tank.

Ghost

 

[quote="mikeyman"Anyways, let me know what you guys think![/quote]

I like the clean, stock look better then what you have. The time it has taken you to do this I've been out ridding.

Chris.

 

OK Ghost just did a test and here are the resistance specs:

Stone Cold - 37 Ohms
Hot (Fan comes on just before the red warning zone) - 17 Ohms

Hope that helps.

Tony

 

I appreciate your input - on a side note, there's 3 inches of snow on the ground soI'm nit riding anywhere!

 

Not a problem. I went out to run a few errands this morning, however our biggest challenge down here is all the debris on the roads from the hurricane.

I also did a measurement as the bike was cooling down. And just for reference, the resistance when the gauge is at the start of the black line (Left side) is 30 Ohms. That may help in setting up the gauge, and if I were setting up a reference point, that would be where "Reserve" is. As you know, having no resistance (Grounded) will peg it to the right past the red.

I'd be interested in seeing how you set it up. Keep us posted.

Tony

 

Thanx for the info
Ghost

 

If you disconnect the temp gauge and secure the leads, will the fan still come on?

Also, it turns out that if you cut the wires going to the gauge illumination lights, all the lights stop working... Oops! I guess I'll put that back together!

 

Mike,

The temp gauge and thermo switch (operates the fan) work independently. So the fan would still operate normally.

Tony

 

Instead of starting a new thread.. I can post an update on my gauge-cluster here, I got my panel cut today in 5mm aluminum and test-fitted my gauges.



Some more tinkering and then it gonna get anodized in satin-black.

 

Mmmmmmmm, gauge porn. Now THAT is some nice work. Are you going to leave it brushed or polish the sh*t out of it?
*EDIT* just noticed you are anodizing.

 

Haha thank you Maxim-X!

Gonna give it a go in the mill so I can fit the PCB-board behind the five slots later, with some "frosted" plexi over the leds it will hopefully look really sweet with the black coating!

 

haha nice work!!!!

Inspiration for future gauge work for me!

Keep posting updates!

 

Ah, very nice! This is almost exactly what I need to do for my Atari deletion but keeping display project:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=40396.html

I just need a window for the lcd, with a box behind it for circuit board, where your slots for lights are. Then a few l.e.d. holes somewhere. And if I make it a little bigger, can solve my other problem about the ignition area I think.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=40574.html

Might have to put a slight bend in it at the bottom. As you can see, the shroud is at a slightly different angle, I'd like a bracket like yours but covering the area highlighted in the pic also.

Thanks for the inspiration!

 

Looks good!

I've come up with a plan and I'm in the middle of making it work. I'll post pics when I'm done - it's gonna be saaweeeeeett!

 

i like it! now you can go 260mph and rev to 1800!! yeehaw!

 

Hahaha,
Not to be nitpicking but.. it's 260 km/h and it's 18 000rpm

(ie I wanted a matching set, but the level below only showed 180km/h and 8000 rpm, The speedo limit is sufficient, but 2k under the redline on the tach wasn't a option for me)

 

AHHHHHH! I want to do this!