Bike will not start... stater solenoid clicking only heard.

So, my xj750MK was running really well for quite a while now. All of a sudden today the number one cylinder decided not to fire. First thing I did was checked and wiped downed the spark plug, put it back and still did not fire so I exchanged it with one of the other spark plugs that was firing in their cylinder. The bike started a little then just shut off and would not turn back on at all. The only thing that happens now when i push the start button is hear a loud clicking noise from the starter solenoid (louder than usual) and nothing else. Power is still flowing throughout the bike, all fuses are good, and no wires seem damaged. Any ideas of what might be wrong? I am thinking it's either the stater solenoid or the spark plug wires. Thanks.

Oh, I am more concerned about the bike not starting. The 1st cylinder not firing is second priority, if any suggestions on how to fix this too I would love to hear them, again thanks!

 

Your battery is probably flat.

The battery may be simply low on water (when did you check it last?) or getting old, or not being charged fully. Pull the battery, check and remedy the water levels, fully charge it (at less than 1.2A/hr) and take it to the auto parts to have it tested.

How many miles on the bike? Amongst all that neglected maintenance we're always on about is periodic inspection and replacement of your alternator brushes. If the battery's ok, it could be time for alternator service.

As for the cylinder suddenly not firing; is it getting spark and no ignition, or not sparking?

Have you checked the valve clearances yet? Done a compression test? Serviced the carbs? Installed an in-line fuel filter?

It could also be a plug cap loose on the wire (they screw in/on) or the resistor core inside the plug cap is loose. IF it's truly ignition related. But there are many possibilities.

 

Thanks bigfitz. The carbs have recently been serviced and will re-order an inline fuel filter (ordered wrong size) but a compression test and valve clearance check has not been done yet. The bike was actually in prep for these checks when it suddenly stop working. I'll definitely take a look at everything you mentioned and get back to you once I start to figure more things out.

I don't know yet if the cylinder is getting no spark and no ignition or just no spark. Will figure out soon hopefully.

The bike has 35,000+ miles on it.

Where exactly should the water level be at in the battery?

 

Check your starter brushes also. had a Very similar thing happen was a broken brush spring.

 

Thanks PacNorWestHD!

 

There are marks on the case of the battery for minimum and maximum water level. (Most of mine say "upper level" and "lower level.") The water needs to be at the upper marks; use distilled water, NOT tap water to refill.

Don't use a 2A (or even higher) automotive battery charger to recharge your battery; you need something that puts out .75A~1.2A max. My personal choice is one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/?ta ... 4x5vcsn9_b

These bikes tend to "eat" batteries even when everything is 100% so you need to check the water level at least once a week if you're riding the bike regularly. You can get 4 years out of a battery in an XJ but only if you take good care of it.

You need to get after checking the valve clearances immediately. If the bike is one of those whose valves have been perpetually neglected you're in the danger zone big time.

 

Okay, so 4 valves are out of spec. 2 intake, and 2 exhaust. All necessary parts were removed to replace the shims. However, I am unsure on how to remove the shim from the bucket themselves. They seem to be snug in there. I don't have a small enough magnet so I couldn't even attempt that idea. What should I do?

 

Do not use a magnet to remove the shims. It will magnetize the valve train parts, thus attracting metal shavings and such.
Theres a slot in the bucket where you can use a tool (I use a dental pick) to pry the shim loose. Then grasp it (I use a hemostat) & pull it out.

 

I got the buckets out from the valves themselves, but the shim is within the bucket. I have the bucket in my hand and now staring at the shim not knowing how to take it out to replace it. Any ideas?

 

How did you get the bucket out? Did you take the cams out? There is a slot in the bucket that a small dental pick or mini flat blade screwdriver will fit into to pop the shim up out of the bucket. If yuo have to pry on the tool with much force, then it is probably not the correct shim for the engine in the first place and may have not been seated properly providing inaccurate clearance measurements.

 

Valve clearance check (without pulling cams http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

and part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

 

Re: Bike will not start... stater solenoid clicking only hea

Bigfitz, Why can't he use a 2amp(or higher) automotive battery charger?

 

It'll cook the battery. The original wet-type batteries that came in these bikes should be charged at MAYBE 1.2Ah, max. (Every new battery I've bought for my bikes has specified 1.2Ah maximum in the instructions.) You can get away with 1A, but 0.75Ah is preferred especially if trickling or "maintaining."

Charge one of these batteries on a 2Ah or 4Ah charger and you'll cook it or boil it dry.

 

Re: Bike will not start... stater solenoid clicking only hea

All I have is a automotive charger with 2amp/10amp/50amp. I've always used the 2amp circuit with no problems. It generally takes 1 to 1&1/2 hours per volt, never left it charging overnight.
It seems kinda ridiculous for the battery to have a max of 1.2 amps since the alternator puts out more than that.

 

Got the shims out, thanks for all the advice everyone! Will replace with corrected sizes in due time.

The cylinder that was not firing is only due to no spark, it was just a bad spark plug.

My two alternator brushes are at different lengths, one is about half the size of the other. Should I replace? I'm thinking yes.

I charged my battery with a 900mah charger/maintainer, is that correct? 900mah is the same as .90ah.

A new inline fuel filter is in the mail and I will do a compression test as soon as the shims are replaced and re-sync the carbs.

 

900mA should be fine.

 

Okay, so bike is back together with adjusted shims and new alternator brushes. The first start up was fine, but it seems to have a problem staying alive. I hold it on full throttle and it barely holds combustion. Any ideas? Correct me if I'm wrong, but could it be lean and rich mixture? Chain tightener too tight?

The shims where replaced while the cams were out. I am very sure I put them back in the correct spot. However, I only used references on the bike itself: Lining up the letter "T" on the left side of the bike with the "line" that is there. The intake and exhaust nubs on the camshaft for cylinder 1 facing away from each other and horizontal to the ground at the same time making the nubs on cylinder 4 face each other and horizontal to the ground. Is this correct? Does anyone have any links or pictures that can show me the correct timing? Thanks!

 

Doesn't sound quite right. The cams have marks on them that line up with 'pips' on the sprockets, and those marks line up with little arrows cast onto the cam caps.

If you're not using a service manual you should be. If you put the cams back in "out of time" then you may have already bent a couple of valves.

Get the cams timed correctly, then roll the motor over by hand a few times and triple-check the cam timing BEFORE you fire it up again.

Once everything is back together and confirmed to be timed correctly, go back and check the valve clearances.

Valve clearance check; although done on a 550 it is exactly the same procedure for a 750 (or for any aircooled XJ.) http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

and Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

After checking the clearances, and correcting any that are out of spec, do a compression test.

 

Re-did timing. Aligned the cast arrows to the 'pips' on the sprockets. This is suppose to be done with the crankshaft marked with "T" align with the other outer line that is there right? I ask because I do not have a service manual and am basically doing trial by error here. What is the "C" for? and what is the "]" next to the "T" for too? Sorry for all the questions, I'm still new at this and feel like an idiot.

 

I finally got the bike to crank but it's not firing up, the sound it makes is clearly due to inaccurate timing.

Where are the lobes suppose to be positioned for the intake and exhaust cam shafts? I lined up the "pips" on the sprocket to the cast arrows on the cam caps, but I may have gotten the positioning of the lobes wrong. I had the 1st cylinder intake lobe facing straight down and it's exhaust facing straight up. I need to know the correct positions for all the lobes on all the cylinders. Of course while the engine crank was set at "T"

The starter and alternator are again working well. The spark plugs are sparking (I can hear them) but it's not firing up.

PLEASE HELP! I'm frustrated, but a little relieved that I got this far.

 

GET A MANUAL.

And keep in mind that this is a 4-stroke, four cylinder motor, so the "T" mark is only "valid" every two turns, and only when the number one cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke. Just guessing at it is taking a chance of being 360* out, and damaging the motor.

Doing it the way you are is asking to bend a valve, if you haven't already. These are what are known as "interference motors" which means that the pistons can crash into the open valves (interfere) if not timed correctly.

GET A MANUAL. If you had a book you wouldn't have pulled the cams just to set the valve clearances.

I've been doing this for over 40 years, and still wouldn't think of trying to get it right, bikes or cars, without a proper set of service manuals. Nobody can memorize all of the intricacies of any one motor, and a whole lot of the details involved with an XJ are not immediately obvious. You need a book.