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Proper Way to Store a Bike for Winter

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by happydog500, Nov 10, 2012.

  1. happydog500

    happydog500 Member

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    I was planning on ridding my bike through the winter. With temps in the 20's now, and teens, single digits and maybe below zero later on, I think I'll store it pretty soon. (just took dog for a walk, maybe real soon!)

    I was wondering the proper way to store a bike? The oil is about half way or more from needing a change. Can I leave that oil in, change it in the spring? Should I change it to store it with fresh oil? Does it matter?
    I was thinking of starting the bike every once in a while, but if I store it, I'd probably drain the gas and not start it until spring. With a dab of gas, starting it through the winter would not be a problem because I would need to add some.
    For sure the battery needs to be maintained.

    Anything else to consider about starting it every couple weeks vs not at all?

    I'm trying to find a friend to store in a garage, but I might have to leave it out, under a motorcycle cover. It does wrap around and under.
    Will this make it much worse?

    Anything else I need to know?

    Thank you,
    Chris.
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Sorry, but boy do you have all the wrong ideas.

    You need to change the oil and filter and store it with fresh oil in it. Yes, it matters.

    For the same reason that starting it occasionally is a bad idea. When you start up a cold motor in a cold environment, as it warms up condensation forms EVERYWHERE including inside the crankcases, and inside the exhaust system. Unless you then ride the bike a good 20 miles or so to fully warm it up and burn off all that moisture, it will stay behind in the various places in the motor. And combine with the various contaminants in the old oil to form nasty acids that do really grievous things to plain bearings.

    Don't drain the gas; an empty tank can rust, and you can't get all of the gas out of the carbs no matter what you do. That which remains forms varnish. DO invest in a good gasoline stabilizer, like Sta-Bil; "treat" the gas, and run the bike for a while to be sure the treated gas is all through the system. TOP OFF the tank, and store it full.

    Once the gas has been treated and the oil changed, and the bike cooled down enough to work on, pull the plugs. (I use this opportunity to do a compression test and record the readings in my log book.) Put a teaspoon full of motor oil in each cylinder (don't over-do it) OR use an engine fogging spray. Remember when you're ready to turn the motor over with the plugs out to disconnect the TCI.

    Use that same engine fogging spray or WD40 (this IS what it's made for) and "fog" the inside of your mufflers, including a good spray in through the little drain holes. Then fold and roll up a shop towel to create a plug, and plug each muffler.

    Depending on the conditions under which the bike will be stored, you may or may not want to spray down all of the exposed/polished metal with WD40, CRC, or a similar protective spray oil.

    Pull the battery, take it inside, and maintain its charge during layover.

    If the bike is able to be kept indoors, throw an old sheet or other breathable cover over it. Waterproof tarps trap moisture, but sometimes the situation demands their use. If at all possible, store the bike on the centerstand.
     
  3. tuba6869

    tuba6869 Member

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    bigfitz... i do have a question about this.. say your modifying your bike over the winter and switch up the gas tank.. still stabil the motor with the old tank on there and then throw sta bil in again with the new tank on?
     
  4. theadbrewer

    theadbrewer Member

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    Fitz is correct on all of this, imagine that. I don't always get these all done but my bike starts up with little problem on the first attempt.
     
  5. MiGhost

    MiGhost Well-Known Member

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    If you are switching out the tank on your bike in a build up.
    Drain the tank.
    Then use a fogging spray/oil to coat the inside of the tank.
    When you have the tank swap done, and are ready to fire the bike up again. Use fresh fuel.

    Ghost
     
  6. tuba6869

    tuba6869 Member

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    thanks ghost!
     
  7. happydog500

    happydog500 Member

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    I asked if I need to change the oil and you said yes, so not "all the wrong ideas."
    Thank you for setting me straight on this stuff. Will it matter if I change the oil, then drive 5 miles to a friends garage (if I get that option)?

    I'm glad I asked, since I hear everywhere that you need to drain the carbs when storing it. I see gas stablizer is for; "We recommend using Fuel Stabilizer to help prevent some of the following ethanol fuel problems. The ethanol fuel used to power small engines today can be very detrimental to the fuel system if left in the engine too long. Ethanol will absorb water, and can absorb 50 times more water than conventional non-ethanol fuel."
    The fuel I use is 'Non-ethanol". Right down the street is the only place in town that has it. Boy, both my car and bike notice when I use that stuff. It costs only about 2 cents more than the ethanol.
    In the spring, can I start the bike up with the oil in the cylinder?
    Good idea to place it on the center stand, never thought of that.

    Thank you,
    Chris.
     
  8. Madmusk

    Madmusk Member

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    Fitz, you mentioned not draining the carbs because you can't get all the fuel out, but I've been wondering: doesn't all the fuel evaporate by the end of the winter anyway? If I let my bike sit for just a week or two the fuel level is low enough that it needs a good priming to get it started. Is it my imagination, or wouldn't the carbs be bone dry by the time spring rolls around?
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    It will form varnish and gum up small passages before it will all evaporate.
     
  10. Madmusk

    Madmusk Member

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    So is treating the gas with Stabil all that's necessary to leave fuel in there without fear of gumming things up?
     
  11. ryevans21

    ryevans21 Member

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    Yes, if you're only talking winter storage. If multi-year storage I believe it would be recommended to drain the carbs. Nothings going to prevent buildup over time (thus why one must clean/rebuild), but this will minimize it.
     
  12. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    I don't store my bike for winter, I store it for military deployment, over 7 months.

    I do what fitz says, with the exception that instead of "fogging spray" (which I could never find locally and really don't even get what it is) I just use WD40. Like he said, that is what it's made for.

    Make sure the gas tank and carbs are FULL of Sta-Bil treated gasoline. As for evaporation, I pulled my carbs to clean them after 7 months and they were as clean as before I left. I pulled them AFTER I was able to start it up and run it for awhile.

    Also, when you're placing the bike on the center stand, find some way to safely lift the front wheel off the ground too. Same reason, to avoid flat spots.

    I change my plugs when I get back, it doesn't start up like it's been started everyday, but it does start and run. A little rough at first, but it settles down.

    And you want to run the bike as LITTLE as possible after you change the oil, you are trying to avoid getting corrosive combustion byproducts into the oil and then letting it sit and stew.

    This time it will have sat for almost a year. I'll let you know how it starts up, but all the gunk will be in the bottom of the bowl, not good for the fuel enrichment circuit, but all else should be ok. A lot of that stuff re-dissolves when you add fuel again, anyway. *crossing fingers* I really do think the varnish that a lot of us see is a result of years of neglect, not 6 months of storage.
     
  13. Smoottie

    Smoottie New Member

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    I’ve just got to say that I’m so happy I found a forum with intelligent people.
     

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