650 dead

Xj 650 it had a few leak and I got it fixed for the most part I can tell. Now it wont fire at all it back fires and that's all she will do. Black smoke will roll out of left side of bike(if u sit on it) out tail pipe and will back fire like a 12 GA went off. Its still leaks fuel on 1 Carb close to left side. But I just can seem to get it to fie so I can check carbs well running. Any Ideas y bike will BK fire only on that pipe.


Hre the details I've replacement fuel line fixed petcock kinda clean out side of carbs ck. Boots for leaks of air or fuel charging battery not for 100% full power.


Didn't pull plugs for gap will tho but haven't tuned or messed with carbs beside losses float bowels

Also inner stupid? I c where the air filter will b by how u get to it. I think I'm over thinking it but I'm done looking I don't want to tool if its a easy get to.


Thanks for reply. And thank to y'all thatvhelped b4

 

ok lets back up for second so I can wrap my head around that. If Im reading what I think Im reading I think you are way rich.
Are the carbs CLEAN?
Have you VERIFIED fuel levels?
Does the oil smell like Gas?

 

No oils fine carbs yea leaky but cleand an the fluids good rich maybe. It ran good w few days ago then I let it sit well I fixed a few odds. I go to fire it and this is what I got a back fireing 12 ga in my basement. Its a 82 maxim 650 it that will help any more.

 

first thing you gotta do is make sure the process is complete with no short cuts. A short cut is the fastest way right back to the start.
First off the "leaky" carb sounds like fuel levels wayy to high maybe? causing an over rich condition.....un burned fuel is igniting in the pipes causing the backfire... and or dirty carbs maybe causing a float to hang, bent float pin, etc.....
start with getting the carbs really clean. use new gaskets and float valve seats and needles. clean and polish the slides and bores with some 1500 wet sand and pb blaster. I boil my carbs but stay away from cheap spray carb cleaner..it eats shaft seals and o rings. use new orings everywhere you have one. then verify the float levels with a clear tube then set the cam chain slack and adjust your valve lash.
After that do a runnining vac sync and tune. Start with step 1 though.. pull that carb rack and get it CLEAN CLEAN.....dont forget the slide bores

 

It's not dead just needs treatment. When you throw a rod or it bursts into flames then it may just be dead.

What skw1972 has told you is good advice especially with respect to not short cutting. These bikes are great when they are properly maintained, but they are performance based machines with fine tolerances so if it ain't right you will have problems.

If you have dirty carb issues and you start cleaning but don't go all the way it will only make it worse. Those tiny passages will get clogged by what you broke loose or your float valve won't seal up. The 'shotgun' blast backfire is caused by fuel vapor building up beyond your exhaust valve and then igniting. It can be an over-rich condition, but it can also be caused by simply cranking away with the 'choke' enrichment on when the bike won't start. The only way you can know and fix it is to go step by step through the proper maintenance.

 

have you unplugged the ignition coils or taken the plug leads off at all ?
Sounds like timing is out a long way like a plug lead in the wrong spot... just a though

 

I'll jump on the carb band wagon here.

That leaking #1 carb is because of WAY to high fuel levels.

The carbs need to be wet set.

The float is set too high, allowing fuel to come back up through the air jets and flood your bike.

Open up the seat, take out the 3 screws (or at least there should be three) for the air cleaner cover. It's the piece that the fuse box is attached to. Pull the air filter out and take a whiff, bet it smells of fuel.

You need to get those carbs cleaned, then wet set the fuel levels, before it will even think of starting for you.

But this is only one step in many that need to be done before you try starting it. Like the others said, you will need to check the oil for fuel, check and adjust valve clearances, etc.

 

Well like I said oils cool but float sound bout right I was thinking it then I just tighten Carb bowels and it dont leak as bad. But is Carb work really as hard as it seems? It sad the bike ran last week but now it just a basement show piece. But I could Ck air box cuz I never could find it. I just got bike 2 weeks ago so please don't say I neglect it I've never rode it to neglect it. But thanks ill pull drain and fix float hope it runs right after but any more Carb help is welcome or link with pic be best. But one more fast? I heard to drain plugs anyone no where it is and dose that mean it got 2 fill holes

 

Granted, YOU haven't had the chance to neglect it. That happened in the 30+ years before you got it.

YOU get to "undo" all of the neglect. Going at it the way you are will not work. You need to be methodical, and diagnose; not grasp at straws and jump to conclusions.

EACH carb has its own drain plug; each carb has its own float.

I'm gonna say it again: GET A BOOK!

 

Books on It way its gone a take a few weeks to get. I'm not around a bike shop that could help so I hunted one down. How ever I Diaz it b4 I understand a need the book I under stand I'm redoing a 30 year old bike I get this its a nice bike and its not a rocket science motor to fix. I just want to get a few ideas ofbwhat might be wrong or what might fix it an so on b4 I pulled it apart to fix everything. Thank you for your concern but I'm not going 2 ride a 30 year old bike b4 its all new anyways. I just wanted ideas and tip hints little no how. B4 I got dirty that's y I'm on this site to find out and ask if not found.

My fault f I'm ticking people off asking? But that's y this site is here I thought

 

Books on It way its gone a take a few weeks to get. I'm not around a bike shop that could help so I hunted one down. How ever I Diaz it b4 I understand a need the book I under stand I'm redoing a 30 year old bike I get this its a nice bike and its not a rocket science motor to fix. I just want to get a few ideas ofbwhat might be wrong or what might fix it an so on b4 I pulled it apart to fix everything. Thank you for your concern but I'm not going 2 ride a 30 year old bike b4 its all new anyways. I just wanted ideas and tip hints little no how. B4 I got dirty that's y I'm on this site to find out and ask if not found.

My fault f I'm ticking people off asking? But that's y this site is here I thought

 

might want to pull a compression check too. At least I would if it was mine.
Not saying low compression is anywhere near the problem but if you are gonna work on it you may want to get an clearer picture of what you are working with.

 

New to you bike has to go through the following to run well.

1. Valve adjustment
2. Compression check
3. Thorough carb rebuild and clean (nothing wrong with canned carb cleaner, dipping the carbs in carb cleaner will eat o-rings, but the short contact and evaporation of canned cleaner won't)
4. Intial set up of carbs (bench sync, pilot mixture screw setting,float height adjustment).
5. Running sync and pilot mixture adjustment.
6. Fluid change

No one's mad, we just don't want you to keep taking shots in the dark. The above is the best methodical process to get the bike up and running. Leaking floats can be cured with the above method, along with other issues who's symptoms you haven't had a chance to notice yet.

And no, carb cleaning/rebuilding isn't hard. There are certain pitfalls (and great How-To threads on this site to help you navigate them). It just takes patience and time.

Beyond running well, you'll also need to restore the braking system, verify the charging system function, grease or replace bearings, replace old tires, and replace any old leaky rubber seals throughout the bike to make it a reliable rider.

The motor is not going to be an issue unless you blow bad compression. The intake needs to be 100% to get these bikes running reliably, the engine itself is rarely the cause of no-start conditions.

 

Thank you never would of b4 I started that. Anything I should ck keep in mind bike wont start either still but I got 2 months to pull it apart and redo odds. Anyways but that would help and here's my plans since I'm on the topic of asking? B4 I do big time work.( like to no what I'm getting in to b4 I start) doing the carbs are a giveing I just want it to run one more time b4 I broke it down cuz I got wires to ck and stuff b4 but I'm stuck and can't now so it have to wait. But new gasket brake and bulbs are getting done and bodywork bikes apart should just do it when it apart. And relube everything. Anything else I should ck 4 I Start my to do list.

 

Manbot13 u hit my thoughts and doing on the nose there and yea ur right I'm takeing comments the wrong way so sry but how ever my thoughts and ideas r different thinking then some1 else trial and error is the teaching way of being a king at stuff how ever the info from y'all people r keeping my hands clean for now an giveing me great heads up.




Bout what about the 2 drain plugs and dos it got 2 fill holes or just that one on right side that's confuseing me a little bit y it got 2 plugs

 

yeah man I wasnt trying to scare you with the compression check, and as I said I never thought you had a low compression issue. I was just saying if you are going to work on it (or anything else) knowing the compression has value on multiple levels.
But beyond that it was only a suggestion from a personal opinion if you plan on bringing the girl back to good health.
All that mind you has nothing to do with carb issues. Sorry if I confused you

 

What plugs are you talking about? For the OIL? Or carb drain screws?

Here's the oil drain plug; it's "underneath" on the front of the sump. The filter housing (the finned thing) also needs to come off to change the filter; you remove its center bolt.




On the shaft driven bikes, there is also a "Middle Gear" oil drain plug that you probably can't even find. That's good; it doesn't need to be opened anyway.


Here is a pic that clearly shows (2) of the (4) carb drain screws, although these are Mikuni carbs:

 

No I understand the fact of the comp. Test hats just smart thinking..... and I saw on a form on here that some1 said the engine it self has two drain plugs and that's what confuseing me. I don't see two drains on the motor for oil .... I only no of the one in front like the pic shows and filter. ....

 

I. Do no of the middle gear plug I've seen it but I'm starting to think from ur post that old form was miss lead hints y it didn't have a lot of reply s And no pic. Or I miss read it

 

The reason we tell people not to remove that middle gear plug is: 1. It's not needed, you can drain the oil as much as you need to from the drain plug on the front. 2. You can very easily break or strip that middle gear plug. Then you have a problem you don't need.