Well, what do I check next?

Finally got the carbs sorted (I hope), cleaned, floats set, bench synced... I put them back on the bike and she still won't start :? . It cranks and cranks, but won't fire. Occasionally the starter will just spin, like it's not engaging... Last time I checked I had decent spark, plugs are almost new. Valves have been adjusted, verified cam timing (I think I got it right this time around). Propane in the airbox does nothing. I checked the floats after putting them on the bike, and with the hose centered the levels look pretty spot on.

Maybe check the coils I guess? I really hope I don't have to go back and triple check the cam timing...

 

battery fully charged.... I mean FULLY CHARGED?... It can turn with a little juice but needs a lot of juice to fire those plugs.

 

It should be, it's an AGM that I got back in March and it's on the charger/maintainer at least once a week, although I should double check it.

 

Also,

Check the "me again" post a few lines down..

That one was funny

 

Definitely have gas in the carbs and everything is hooked up correctly.... Also compression was good when I checked it. Before pulling the carbs off last time the bike would rev to 5k rpm, shut the choke off and it'd die out.

 

Try it with a BRAND NEW set of properly gapped plugs.

 

before you do all that, pull the #1 and #2 plugs out and lay them on the engine, still connected to the wires. Spin it and see if you have spark.

 

That won't guarantee the plugs are good. A poor ground will actually allow a fuel soaked plug to fire.

Do the test with your new, properly gapped plugs.

 

When the bike runs ON CHOKE, but DIES when the Enrichment is turned off, ... that usually signals the Carbs need to be Cleaned.

The Emulsion Tube's surrounding Air Orifices might be clogged and are preventing Main Jet Supplied fuel from exiting into the Intake Air Stream.

Further, the Diaphragm Pistons might be "Stuck" or Sticking; failing to rise and withdraw the Needle Valve from the E-Tube contributing to Fuel Starvation.

But, if the Bike RUNS on Choke ... but, DON'T when the Enrichment is
CLOSED, ... that indicates a Fuel Delivery Issue where Fuel is not being delivered topside for some reason; but the Fuel Bowls are supplying Gas to the Enrichment Circuit OK.

 

With the plugs that were in the bike I got a fat blue spark on all 4. First I did 1 &2 then 3&4.
On a side note #1 smelled like gas and #3 spark kinda jumped around a bit.

Also #1 & #4 sparked as soon as I turned the key to on. Not sure if that's normal...

I'll check the grounds but the bike is extremely clean so I'm not really expecting to find much corrosion.

I'll probably give the carbs another cleaning, and I might replace the floats because of all the trouble I had getting them set right...
While it's apart I might as well triple check the cam timing :roll:

 

Do we know if fuel is getting through to the plugs.

When i put mine back together 1st time round..! and tried starting, I spent a lot of time cranking and recharging batteries and checked plugs to find them all bone dry.

As Rick has indicated your air orifices may be partially blocked? and Carbs could need cleaning again..

try starting again then pull a plug check it for fuel, New plugs will help though especially if your not sure of age of existing plugs.

 

RhettB,

Where are your mixture screws set? My bike did the same thing yours is doing after I cleaned my carbs. I started with each screw set at 3 turns out. It wouldn't stay running without the ec. After several "trial and error" tests I found out my #3 screw needs about 1/8" more out than the rest. Sync'd and Colortuned...All is good.

Gary

 

Anyone know if this is normal?

I believe they are all slightly past 2 1/2 turns out...

 

Normal? No, but a bad thing possibly not.

The coils get their signal from the TCI to fire, which in turn gets it's signal from the reluctor (rotor) as it passes one of two pick-ups. Although it should require a changing magnetic field (the reluctor moving) to generate sufficient current for the TCI to interrupt current to the coil, which then collapses the magnetic field in the coil causing a massive voltage surge in the secondary wiring generating the spark--It is remotely possible that enough of a residual potential was generated which collapsed the coil's field anyway even without reluctor movement. Unlikely yes, impossible no but your reluctor would have to be basically lined up with the 1&4 pick-up-and just from a electrical standpoint I would think the ambient air would be fairly dry to intensify the potential.

 

It happens occasionally (one of the coils firing as soon as you switch "on.")

I wouldn't be overly concerned about it.