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My xj project

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by rdsoxx, Dec 7, 2012.

  1. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    Im starting a thread just to track my project and likely solicit your input. So far:

    Yanked off the tank and drained it.
    Pulled air box and carbs off
    Just finished cleaning the carbs, didnt touch the diaphragms yet as they seem ok. Had to finger drill the number main jet as it was completely closed. Used gage pins to clear everything.
    Pulled the plugs, gonna replace those. Need to get a battery and some oil.....thats where i am.
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    And why in the world did you pull the airbox? It doesn't sound like you've finished the carbs yet, see link below.

    Mikuni carb teardown: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html

    Float level setting: http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

    VALVE CLEARANCES: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html
    Part Deux: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html

    You can't sync the carbs if your valves aren't in spec.

    To get it running properly-- IN ORDER:

    Carbs surgically clean, accurately wet-set float levels and bench sync'ed.

    Valve clearances in spec.

    Running Vac sync, with YICS blocked.

    Mixture fine-tuning via ColorTune, "idle drop" method and/or plug chops.

    Engine oil: MOTORCYCLE-specific, 20W50. NOT automotive oil.

    Plugs: NGK D8EA, gapped at .025" http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=34431.html

    Then once it's running we'll talk BRAKES: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html
     
  3. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    Airbox was already off when i bought it actually.
     
  4. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Oh, sorry. You listed "pulled airbox off."

    Eliminating the airbox in favor of pod filters means re-jetting fun.

    You'll need to have everything I listed done 100% to even hope to have any degree of success. Good luck.
     
  5. mtnbikecrazy55

    mtnbikecrazy55 Active Member

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    Heed the warnings and do things in order and thouroughly.

    Skipping ahead or rushing steps will only set you back further and make you re-do things that you have already invested time into.
     
  6. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    Fuse box replaced, bike finally has spArk. Confirmed all safety relays are functional.

    Started the bike and it ran. Now that i know it can be functional, next steps:

    Wet set carb floats, install a starter button, figure out how the battery and box go in.
     
  7. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    -Check and adjust valves so you can do a vacuum sync.

    -Battery box bolts in on the right, there are two rubber grommets with metal inserts and bolts with relatively large washers that go in the two bottom mounts and screw into tabs on the frame. There is an upper mounting point too, a bolt that screws into an insert in the top tab on the box, from "behind." It also has a rubber grommet with a metal insert, etc.

    There is a frame ground that leads from the forward bottom mounting bolt to the grounding bolt on the back of the motor, which is nearly adjacent. That should be illustrated in the diagrams I sent you.

    The fiche comes in very handy for this. The battery box is in the "Side Cover - Tool" diagram. http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oempart ... ycle/parts
     
  8. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    it ran pretty smooth actually, but didnt want to hold a low idle - still alot of tuning and sync to do, but now i feel comfortable doing it all knowing shes capable. thanks for all the help guys. i hope to have some good hours of wrenching this weekend before the sunday night game.
     
  9. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I wouldn't worry too much about a "low" idle; the 550s are supposed to idle at 1200rpm.
     
  10. shangovi

    shangovi Member

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    Bigfitz... in your link "Float level setting" there is a pic of a PVC pipe rack to hold the carbs while setting the fuel level - any specifics as to building it? pipe size etc? maybe?
    I need to build one before the winter really sets in so that I can do my carbs
     
  11. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I use my bench vise and a couple of small carpenters' levels. (I didn't do the "float levels" PDF for Len's site, Schmuckaholic did.)
     
  12. shangovi

    shangovi Member

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    gotcha - thanks
     
  13. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    Correction - next steps are installing a starter button and checking and correcting valve clearances. THEN im gonna worry about idle and sync carbs and what have you.
     
  14. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Remember; Idle SPEC is 1200rpm. You don't want to be idling lower.
     
  15. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    Not reAdy for the idle yet fitz, you know that! Wet set float heights and valve clearances first! Then i'll worry about air fuel screws, idle, carb sync, all that fun stuff to make her purr. I live in connecticut (prayers to the newtown families) so my plan is to get her ready for spring. No need to rush.
     
  16. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    You had said it was actually running pretty good but wouldn't hold a low idle; we've had folks trying to get their XJ to idle at 900rpm, not realizing they idle a bit high. Didn't want you concerned over that.
     
  17. rdsoxx

    rdsoxx New Member

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    I appreciate the idle spec. It had a hard time starting so im not concerned with it just yet. Other stuff to so first.
     

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