First oil filter/ oil change.

Are there any previous threads with helpful step by step pics/ details for changing oil filter on a '85 xj700.

Cheers.

 

I suppose I should clarify that it's not the bikes first oil change! I am in the middle of rebuilding petcock, so most of oil and fuel have leaked because of stuck float. once the petcock is rebuilt though, I will deal with replenishing oil.

 

if you have fuel in your oil you have more than petcock problems, you have carb issues also sounds like a float sticking. You will need to pull the carbs off and at the very least clean them, but sounds more like a rebuild.

Don't get discouraged this site is a super resource.

 

OK: here's the only picture you'll really need:




There's the oil drain plug. Yours may or may not have a phillips screw in the middle of it; ignore that, the whole plug needs to come out. It has a "crush washer" for a gasket, I would recommend replacing that too although in a pinch you can re-use. (See items #14, 15 and 16 in diagram below.)

The hex head above it on the oil filter housing (the finned thing,) is the head of the filter bolt, its "washer" is part of the bolt. The "bolt" is more than just a bolt, it contains a pressure relief valve. (See #4 in diagram below.)

There is a small o-ring that goes on the bolt. (See #5 in diagram below.)

There is a large o-ring that goes on the filter housing (#6 in diagram below.)

Part #7 and #8 are a thin washer (very thin) and a stiff spring. If your washer is missing don't panic, they quite often are. It's not super-critical, just get one and install on the next oil change.

Rubber rings #3 are part of the filter; and the bolt #4 is an assembly as well, only the o-ring (#5) is a separate piece.

The filter goes into the housing with the flat side "up" (toward you) so it ends up with the concave side toward the front of the bike and the flat side is pressed against the motor by the spring.

Grease the big o-ring to help keep it in the groove in the housing. Be sure it stays in place when tightening the filter housing bolt.

VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT overtighten the filter housing bolt. It only goes to 11 ft/lb which is NOT a lot; the drain plug goes to 31 ft/lb.

 

Brilliant. Thanks Fitz for taking the time. I should add that the only way I'm able to rebuild my petcock is because of your directions i found on that as well.

Much appreciated.

 

Yep, the How To's, especially when accompanied with lots of pics, are awesome! I am still amazed at the expertise here and how freely it is given to folks like me that really don't know what I am doing.

 

Thanks guys. Just trying to help and preserve the "lost arts" by passing along what I know before it's too late.

What gives me the biggest satisfaction is when somebody uses one of my "how-tos" to solve their problem.

 

Fitz, I actually printed a few of your Hot To's and posted them into my binder for reference. Thanks.

 

Great tutorial, what I would like to ask Master Shifu and other riders is: What is your favorite oil that you have used in your XJ?

 

I have it down to a science.
I can do an Oil and Filter change plus fill without getting a drop of Oil on the floor.

I position the Drain Pan under the Bike and break-loose the Drain Plug.
Remove the Filler Cap.
Spin the Drain Plug out with a Cross-head Screwdriver letting the Drain Plug fall into the Pan.
Let gravity and capillary action evacuate the Sump.
Loosen the Dome and let it drain into the Pan.
Tit the Dome and let it drain until it stops.
After the Sump and Dome finish dripping; fish the Drain Plug out of the Pan with a Magnet on-a-stick.
Paper Towel the Magnet and remove the Plug.
Plug the Sump with a wad of Paper Towel.
Swap Drain for Bread Baking Pan positioned under both Drain Hole and Filter Dome.
Pour Pan into recycling container.
Wiggle Filter Dome out from Headers.
Bench.
Clean Plug Magnet of the Engine Fuzz.
Remove Filter Bolt.
Replace O-rings with New ones.
Remove Paper Towel Plug. Insert Drain Plug.
Install New Filter. Oil New O-ring.
Replace Dome with New Filter.
Torque Plug 31 FtLbs
Torque Bolt 11 FtLbs
Install Funnel into gallon Milk Jug marked at 2.7 (Quarts).
Fill Jug to line.
Install Funnel in Filler Hole using Plastic Tie to tether.
Slowly pour all the Oil into the Bike.

:::Edited to correct error / 2.7 Quarts ::: (RM)

 

I stick a couple extra magnets on the filter element end-caps to catch more of that "engine fuzz" which is shredded gear and chain bits.

It may be miroscopic-sized, but it's still hardened steel and doesn't need to be circulating in the oil.

 

Not to be nit picky Rick, but

Install Funnel into gallon Milk Jug marked at 2.7 Gal.

probably needs to be

Install Funnel into gallon Milk Jug marked at 2.7 Quarts.

It also might be pointed out that 20w/50 motorcycle oil is the
indicated oil to be used.

Other than that, this is a great procedure for changing oil.

 

Thanks for spotting that error.
I corrected it.

I forgot to mention that if you buy a FRAM Filter it comes with a Oil Filter Bolt and Filter Dome replacement O-rings.

 

Very helpful. I found my drain plug was missing a crush washer. I have some extra copper ones I use on my Audi. The order of the spring and washer were reversed as well. Fixed that as well!