1982 xj550 questions

Greetings and salutations, (new to this, bare with me). I just purchased an 82 xj550 with a little over 17K miles and need some advice on how to proceed with getting it running.
First it's condition: garage find, hasn't been driven for 3 years and I was told by PO that the carbs needed to be cleaned and adjusted, the tank needed to be cleaned and a battery was all it needed to run. Now, my question is: which procedure should I preform first? I was going to buy a battery then change the oil, then check the valve clearance with a feeler gauge in case the shims have never been adjusted, then I was going to rebuild the carbs if they needed it. I haven't tried to turn the engine manually because I wanted to change the oil first. Do I need a battery to crank the engine over to check compression?
What I'm basically worried about is how to determine if it's worthy of dumping money into getting it running. Any help would be much appreciated.
Lobo

 

Welcome Lobo and congrats on your XJ! I have a 550 as well, a 1981 that I've been having a blast with-they are great bikes.

First generally whatever a PO says while selling the bike is usually sugar coated, clueless, or lies, but you may just get lucky. If it sat for 3 years you can believe it does need carb work, probably new brakes & brake components, probably new tires. And once you get going you will find more you want to either replace or improve.

You can manually turn it over by taking off the left front YICS cover by the shifter and using a 19mm wrench and I would gently try that first to see if it's locked up or not, but to check compression you will need a fresh fully charged battery-and that should come first to answer your question about money dumping or not. I would get the battery, if you want to, go ahead and change the oil but you will need to do it again once you have it running and it gets warm so you can get the oil mostly out and a fresh batch in. I would pull your plugs and squirt some PB blaster or Kroil down each pot, let it sit for a good while and then do the comp test. Make sure you unhook the TCI (under seat black box) and hold the throttle wide open and turn it over about 5 or 6 times or until the needle quits rising. 120-130 for the 550 is good. If any one of them is different by more than 10% it might be a problem.

That should tell you where you stand. Post pics so we can check it out!!

My 550 Max

 

Solid advice, but with one caveat: If there are any horribly tight valves, it could throw off your compression readings enough to make you think something is seriously wrong.

The compression test is a good first step. However, if you get erratic numbers, or a "soggy pot" then the next step would be to check the valve clearances; re-shim as necessary to get everything in spec, and then test compression again.

Or, check the valves first; and if any are way out get them back in spec before the compression test.

And welcome aboard. Quite a few 550 fans here.

 

Thanks Mercureyman and Bigfitz, solid advice. Sorry for the delay in responding as I am fighting a cold for a week now and I just can't shake it. I'll try to post a pic as soon as I figure out how.

As to be expected the condition of the bike is neglected like the valve cover seals are leaking and the fuse box was bypassed (which I rewired with new blade fuse box) and the gas in the tank is bad, the petcock leaks in the off position and the tank is from (I believe) a Maxim. To bad, I really like the shape of the original tank for the 82 Seca and the Maxim tank doesn't have the fuel level sender for the gauge to work. Also the petcock is an aftermarket one that doesn't have the vacuum hose connector. Also, the tank doesn't seem to fit properly because the rubber stoppers on the frame are to narrow or maybe the frame is missing a spacer or something for the tank to slide into, I don't know.

The PO had tried to make it into a stage 1 by replacing the breather with K&N air filters and a (I don't know the brand) 4 into 1 exhaust system which is blocking the oil drain screw. I'll figure it out when I get my hands on it as I am trying to avoid removing the exhaust because the screws studs are bent from the PO overtightening them.



I'll keep at it anyway and thanks for the advice. I was trying to post a picture but I don't know if it's working, maybe I'm doing something wrong.

 

Easiest way I've found to post pics is to use Photobucket. Just go and set up a free acount, upload your pics there. Then select the pic you want to post and click the 'direct link', it should say 'copied' on the link, then when your here and composing your post, or if responding use the preview option and click on the HTML link button, right below the Bold button and paste that link in.

Your tank is probably not the right one for your frame, there are no spacers that I'm aware of, just the rubber isolators and the tank should just slip onto them. The OE petcock can be obtained from XJ4Ever our local parts supplier (top of this website link on right). A different tank is not easy at all but can sometimes be found. As for the 4-1 AM exhaust?? hmm..most don't block the drain screw but who knows.

It does sound like your XJ finally found a 'good' owner instead of all the lame PO's it has suffered through. Glad your aboard.

 

I keep trying to post a pic but it don't work. I'll try photobucket see if that works. Thanks MercuryMan

 

I'm not sure how far you have gotten but removing the Yamaha YICS labeled plate screwed to the left or right side ( not sure which ? someone here will remember ) of the engine will allow you to turn the crank over with a wrench to see if it turns ok. careful with the wrench could slip and damage something - if you find the correct tank it can be repaired if it leaks - be careful to make sure the aftermarket fuel shut off turns off the gas flow you don't want gas draining via the carbs into the engine ( wears out the main bearings when oil is thinned by the gas - make sure to turn fuel off every time when bike is not in use just to make sure - since it's winter rebuild the 4 carbs and borrow or buy a carb sync tool to set them up properly ( this makes the bike start and run much better ) oil change yes - think positive and don't forget about the brakes too lol - back shoes de-laminate with age and front hydraulic hoses probably need changing just to be safe - fuse box yes - all I can think of at the moment - my 82 XJ550 Seca has about 38,000 miles on it and has been well worth the time and money I have spent to bring her back to her former glory

 

My 82 Seca XJ550

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Picture of pipes than might make it hard to drain oil.

 

Maxim tank?

 

Pic of frame with duct tape over the tank rubber stoppers that don't extend out far enough to fit tank width.



The cup has nothing to hold onto.

 

Picture of new blade type fuse block relocation.

 

Picture of AM 4 into 1 exhaust.

 

Picture of bent exhaust studs.

 

I've got a long way to go but what I've learned about these bikes it's from this forum. I'll continue to post questions and get intuitive answers on how to proceed. You guys rock.

Thanks ,Lobo

P.S. I paid $100 for her, self indulging Christmas present.

 

Welcome!!

And hell yeah, 100$ is a great price for that bike.

I paid a buck for mine as well - so needless to say you scored a great deal.



Follow along on my progress here if you wish, we're kinda in the same boat, abeit yours being in a bit better shape along with being more complete.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=4 ... art=0.html

How many miles does the odometer say?

I would sell the maxim tank and buy a seca tank, im really not a fan of how the maxim tank looks on there imho.

It will be a fun project!!

Chris

 

One thing i did notice off the bat - It's missing the chain guard, just so you know.

Keep your eye on ebay for when one comes up for cheap-

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid= ... &_from=R40

 

Spot on Chris. I did notice the chain guard missing, I think because the rear runner is a new Dunlop 130-80-18 and looks like it would rub. Found a couple on ebay just as you suggested but were they plastic or metal? I'm still looking for the original tank and when I get more expendable funds I'll get one, but they are hard to find. Oh yea, 17450 miles on the odometer.

Lobo

 

The tire will rub on the chain guard if you are running a 130 rear tire. That is why I took mine off. Now that I am running a 120 again, I might put it back on. Never had a problem without one.

 

Oh, golly.

For starters, looking at the pics a bunch of things are simply mounted upside-down or incorrectly. When I get a minute to do some serious typing, I'll go over them.

On the 550s, the Seca's chain guard is black plastic and the Maxim's is chrome. They're shaped slightly differently.

 

I've been looking at Hot Cams valve shim kits online and was overwhelmed by the variety of sizes and thickness. What OD size shims does the XJ550 engine use? Should I wait to see which set to order after taking measurements?

 

Yes. Get in there and see what your clearances are and what shim is currently installed in each one. Have you looked at BigFitz's write-up on here about the process? He uses a 550 as the model.

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

there's a part 2 as well.

Once you know clearance and installed shim you can calculate what you will need. Some people will swap the ones they can, others want only new ones put back in. XJ4Ever has the new ones, and there are several 'shim banks' kept by members here that can make it really cheap to get the ones you'll need. And you might only need a couple to put it in spec.

 

Thanks, Merc. MM is right; you don't order a "set" you order what you need after you check your clearances and see what's in there now. Check my how-tos that MM posted the links to; as he said I did them on my 550.

OK, I have a second.

From your pics: The oil filter housing is installed upside-down; the taller/deeper fins go UP not down. If the filter housing was installed correctly, you might be able to get to the drain plug. You may also be able to get to it more easily once the filter housing is off, without pulling the pipe.

The tach cable is upside down where it comes off the motor.

Somebody replaced the rubber "pucks" that go on those metal collars on the frame with wads of duct tape. There should be substantial rubber caps that go on those metal "pegs" on the frame. If there are rubber caps under the duct tape, it's a 650 Maxim tank, a 550 Maxim tank should fit the same mounting points without "shimming."

The exhaust studs should unscrew easily with a little care. The holes don't go all the way through, so they're not rusty on the backside. I would seriously consider replacing them before one breaks.

I already explained about the different chain guards.

Here's what a bone-stock 550 Seca looks like under the seat:

 

Oh, and here's the rest of the bike (it's an '81 without the fairing

 

Thanks BigFitz, I wouldn't have known that the oil cap and speedo cable were reversed. Your bike is really nice, I have Tank Envy now. My tank must be from a 650, it is to big.

The reason I switched to a blade fuse block is because the PO had hotwired all the electrical without fuses being that the original fuse box had no blades to hold the glass fuses. I just decided to upgrade for the sake of simplicity. I haven't wired it together yet, just wanted to make sure that I had it right first.

Red = 20A = Main
Red/Yellow = 10A = Head Lights
Red/White = 10A = Ignition
Brown = 10A = Turn Signals

Is that correct? I have the Clymers repair manual but it has nothing on the fuse box.

MM I'll do what you suggested and take measurements first to know which shims I'll be needing.

Someone had suggested to put PB Blaster or Kroil in the cylinders to check valve clearance when I manually turn the crank. Would liquid wrench be the same? I can get my hands on PB Blaster but being from down in South Texas I had never heard of Kroil.

As always, Thanks

 

Give me 20 mins and I'll get back to a computer to hook you up with some links. Trying to do too much typing on a phone gets me too confused and them all of a sudden I forget what I was trying to type, lol.

 

For the chain guard, the seca guard is plastic, the maxim uses the chrome one.

Get yourself a couple cans of kroil, you can order it online and it can be shipped to your door for CHEAP, just 12 bucks for two big cans. Its the bombski. It works when nothing else does, you will be amazed. soak everything you want to get off before you strip it/even try without it and it will do you magic. Soak it the day/night before and it will do even more magic. It simply rocks.

Heres the link to the deal: http://www.kanolabs.com/HF-Deal/

To fund your new tank, I'd just sell the 650 maxim tank you have on ebay, looks to be in pretty good shape!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-Yamaha-Max ... a4&vxp=mtr

The fusebox upgrade to blade style fuses is something most of us here do so you're already headed in the right direction. I have the blade type on my 750 and will be doing the same on the 550 when it comes time to do so.

Good luck!

 

Found someone just so happening to be looking for a 650 maxim tank -

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#359202

 

lHi lobo, are you wanting to sell that Maxim tank. I am interested in it if so. Please PM with a price if you would like to sell it. Cheers

 

RE: Kroil-- I had never heard of it either until I joined XJBikes. Then a forum member suggested it as I was struggling with rusted-in fork caps. It worked when none of those products, including my until-then favorite PB Blaster, would work.

The don't advertise except in trade journals; and they only sell direct or through industrial suppliers. You won't find it on store shelves.

It's worth it. If you order it through Harbor Freight, you can still get free shipping: https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com ... r_hf.shtml

 

p.s just make up a company name.... like for mine, i just used "titletown garage"

 

"BigFitz Ltd." here

 

I found the Kroil website last night and they even have a money back if your not satisfied deal. Thanks for the advice.

Lobo