Clutch Cover and Gasket???

Ok, I've been searching for clutch kits and I think I'm going to go for the EBC kit and springs at Bike Bandit. I would think there would be a gasket for the cover right? Or is it an O'ring type? If there is, I'm not coming up with anything online at the particular sites I've checked. Does anyone have any info other than sending me to a dealership. Or has this part been discontinued? I hate the thought of making a gasket.

Thanks,
Paul

 

On the 750s there is a paper gasket. I made one, they are not too hard to make.

Don't forget to use a torque wrench on the clutch bolt springs, it is very easy to break the clutch basket or snap a bolt.

 

Thanks for the info. It definitely appreciated. How much torque would you suggest appyling to these bolts?

 

You are welcome.

Manual says 7.2 ft lb / 86.4 inch lb.

This is not much force and a good micrometer type torque wrench in inch lb is recommended for work inside a bike motor.

 

I made my own gasket from gasket material I got the stuff that comes on a roll, Ironed it flat with a steam iron, used the clutch cover as the template. on the inside of my 550, it has a seperate compartment that was part of the gasket. I used a charcoal pencil to "shade" the casting and pressed it against the gasket material. This not only gave me the inside casting exactly but gave me all the locations for the holes. I used a hole punch from wal-mart for the bolt holes and it has worked like a charm.

 

The biggest expense for doing your own clutch is the Clutch Case Gasket. You want to cry when the Parts Guy tells you how much it is.

The heck with that. Make your own out of some high-quality gasket material. All you need is a roll of masking tape, a sheet of some top-shelf gasket material, sharp sizzors, razor cutting tool with new blades and one tube of your Old Lady's finest lipstick.

You remove the moving parts from the cover so it will lie flat when the time comes. Clean-off the mating surfaces where the gasket needs to go.

Cut-out and tape-down, on a clean FLAT surface, a section of gasket making material large enough for the Clutch Cover.
Tape-down a sanding block (screwdriver, or any other object) to the outside of the cover to use as a temporary little "Handle".
Pop the top off the lipstick and put a real nice coat of lipstick on the Clutch case's mating surface, all over the edge where the gasket needs to go.

Hold-on to the "Handle" you made, and carefully set the Clutch Case straight-down onto the surface of the taped-down gasket making material. Then, put a little pressure on the case ... giving the gasket material a really nice "Kiss". (Don't smear the lipstick)

Lift-off the case and you'll have a --> PERFECT <-- pattern on the material to follow for cutting-out your own (good-as or better than) new, Clutch Case Gasket.

A simple "One Hole Punch" from a Stationery Store does the hole punchin' without a problem.

Kiss the Dealer good-bye!

 

I have used oil to pattern gaskets.

Do as Rick suggested, only put a thin coat of motor oil on the cover. It will leave a nice stain on the gasket.

Has the advantage that you don't have to explain to SWMBO what happened to the lipstick.

 

Yeah, I'll have to pick up a light duty inch pounds torque wrench. I've just got a 3/8" and a 1/2" I've got a dirt bike too and I can't even use the 3/8" on it. Had to Heli-coli one thing and came too close to stripping out another. Minimum pounds setting on it is 5 lbs. But aluminum is just too soft with absolutely no forgiveness. I got my 3/8 at Ace hardware and the 1/2" is a craftsman. Any recommendations on brands for a inch pounds torque wrench? You're right about gasket prices. I priced out a valve cover gasket a few years ago and that one was like $50 bucks or so but that was an O-ring type. Was able to seal it with permatex high temp RTV silicone. Thanks again for all the great advice.

Paul

 

Paul,

The one I used was a 3/8 drive but a very expensive one. My local bike repair shop lets me use it.

Brand is Norbar and model is SL0, made in England.
Warren & Brown make good "dog leg" wrenches too, made in Australia.
With any tool like this you are looking at a fair bit of cash. Here they start at about $200 and go up from there.

I have seen cheaper mircometer type wrenches in inch lb at about $120.

Thing is if you are going to be using the wrench a lot it is well worth buying the best you can afford.

Yeah I don't buy gaskets unless I have no choice, eg., head gaskets.

 

In my experiences in a calibration laboratory, I ran my $200 down to $11 torque wrenches throught the machine. For the type of work we do on our machines, my $11 Harbor Freight cheapy (3/8 drive) was up to the task (ran a shade inside the 8% range, fairly linear). My verable old Craftsman clicker is by far my work horse (1/2" drive). I have two Sturtevant Richmont wrenches (3/8 and 1/2" @$200+ a pop) that I don't even pull out of the drawer since old reliable is still working as well as ever. I have mine checked every year and so far still working well. No sense blowing a bunch of cash for a high-dollar toy when a cheap unit will fit the bill.
My two cents.

 

Don't have $11 wrenches here, cheapest I could find was $120
I use my 1/2 inch drive ($89, 4 years ago, $140 now!) wrench for most things. Not accurate enough at under 15 ft lb and get it under 10 ft lb and it don't click, need a inch lb wrench for the small internal settings, for just one job borrow one (or get one of those $11 cheapys which would be the $120 cheapy here ).

Most of the bike shops here use the Norbar, yes how sad is that, I notice what brand tools the mechanics use!
You don't want to know what that $200 wrench would cost here.

 

Have you tried to get a quote on shipping from Harbor Freight? I'm not aware of any international restrictions. Heck, I could pop over to their HQ (it's all of a mile from my house) and pick up a set for you. Cover costs and you should be under $50. What do you say?

 

Hi Robert,

I do know freight is expensive and I don't know how to go about getting the funds to you (no CC), but for sure I am interested in your kind offer. Will have to wait a few weeks as I am in the middle of shifting and a bit low in the $ department (yeah as usual!).

Will contact you via PM then.
Thanks again

 

I thought about Harbor Freight. I've bought some other things through them in the past that were just fine. Actually bought a motorcycle tire changer that works real good. Changed out dirt bike tires with it only, but say it will handle street tires too. I'll take a looks at their wrenches thanks.

Check it out.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=42927

 

I swapped both my tires on their changing stand this past weekend. Took about an hour for both including balancing. A LOT less time than wrestling with one on the floor using 8" irons. Great investment but you have to need to change tires regularly to make this investment worthwhile. I spent about $80 for the changer and the motorcycle tire adapter (caught everthing on sale). I would suggest obtaining the plastic rim protectors ($7 a pop, get two) from any good bike shop.

 

Hello all, I did my clutches and just tighten them a bit over hand tight and they have done me right..That was a year ago..well just my 2 cents worth.

 

Pretty much all I use are the inexpensive HF torque wrenches. They have worked fine so far, not to mention all their other tools as well.

Jim