Suspensions

I cannot depress the plug at the top of my suspensions and get the circlip out. I tried WD-40, some other product that makes the rust freeze up or something, hammering it, insulting it, pressuring it all the way down until it can't depress anymore and it still won't budge.

Does anybody have some video of this being done? Am I doing it wrong? The way I get it, I have to push down on the plug, which is maintained at the top by the spring and then remove the circlip which is preventing it from exiting the suspension, correct?

The restauration of my carbs seemed easier than getting this thing moving

I think my signature has my motorcycle in it, but we're talking about a 1982 yamaha maxim 650

 

I had the same problem with my forks. What I did was filled the empty space at the top with PB Blaster and let it sit for a day. After sitting I was able to take my BFH and a spark plug socket, put the socket on the plug and give it a few whacks with the hammer. I was a bit surprised how quick it broke loose. BTW, the forks I was working on were from an 82 Virago 750 that have been fitted onto an 81 550 Seca.

 

BFH.... LOL - took me a few minutes to think it through. I LIKE it.....

Dave

 

I had the same problem, and PB Blaster didn't work either.

KROIL. When nothing else works, get some.

 

I had the same issue - filled the top with Kroil and let it sit- one broke loose within 10 mins, and the other has been soaking for a week or so now, has yet to break loose, but might try tapping with a hammer/socket to break loose initially as the above member mentioned.

 

Do you have a heat gun? If so put it (or hairdryer) to use by getting it as hot as possible and then apply your penetrator. As the metal cools it will draw the penetrator in deeper. Broke free a terminally rusted VW engine mount with this method. Kroil conquers all.

 

Don't drive the cap down too far. The bore is tapered and anything more than just enough to get the circlip out can bind it.

 

Also, everybody remember to loosen the top clamps on the triple tree so they don't cause a bind there.

 

I remove the Fork from the Bike.
Wrap the Upper Tube with a cut-out section of Inner Tube.
Wrap the Inner Tube with a protective layer of Leather.
(To protect the Tube from Tool Marks)
Lock the Tube in the Pipe-holding section of my Vice.

Using a simple too fabricate Tool (A 3-Inch, straight section of Allen Wrench, ... cut-off with a Dremel Wafer cutting-tool).
I place the Tool in the End Cap and grab the Allen Tool with a Box Wrench.
I apply LIGHT Torque to the Wrench and strike the end of the Allen Tool with a 10-Ounce Ball-peen Hammer.

Once the End Cap has received the Impacts, ... I fill the Top of the End Cap with White Vinegar for 30-Minutes.
Soak-up the Vinegar, ... leaving enough to keep the Clip covered.
(Air Shocks ... Remove Valve ... Use Bolt.
Sacrifice a worn-out Phillips Screwdriver.
Grind the End to a Point.
Use this Tool to Pry at the Clip and let the Vinegar help dissolve rust.

Once the Clip is loosened:
Either it is successfully removed
Or, ...
It breaks apart and needs to pried-out a bit at a time.

 

Awesome trick.........don't try this at home-------

A guy up the road from me restores tractors. He got one in awhile ago that had an engine that was set up. He took the bonnet, tank, etc...... everything above the engine off, and after pulling the head he put a good dose of diesel fuel and kerosene in each cylinder then lit them on fire. after the cyls got good and hot he broke the engine free with a breaker bar on the front of the crank! Not something I'M quite ready to try...............yet.

Dave Fox

 

Good old cast iron, aluminum not so much!!! :roll: :roll:
:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

 

Yup........and the OLD cast iron is the GOOD old cast iron!

My running tractor is a '46 Allis Chalmers WC with the war-time steel rear end. The other is a project '56 Ford 800 wit the wagner bucket and sherman backhoe (or vice versa). The engine is set up on that......hopefully I can break it loose without having to tear it apart. But, if I do, at least the thing comes apart in 'modules', plus I believe the engine is also sleeved IIRC.

Dave F

 

Kroil seems to be the go-to solution, now to find some - Thanks everyone, if I get desperate I might try the diesel + kerosene trick XD (not!)

 

(OT) BigFitz52 - PM sent -

Kroil can be purchased over the 'Net from Kano labs.

 

It can also be purchased on ebay!

Ghost

 

Two king size cans - for 12$ shipped:

https://secure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com ... r_hf.shtml

Make up a company name - "dawgs garage" etc....

 

Hey mtnbike and Billed
When I tried to order Kroil back in 2011 they would not ship to Canada so I did a bit of digging around and found a distributor out in Western Canada, Western Bearing & Auto Parts. (http://www.westernbearing.com/) As far as back then, they were the only Canadian distributor of Kroil so I got in contact with a guy on the counter named Doug. His email then was dug@westernbearing.com I ended up putting the word out on the forum letting the (local Canadian) guys know that if there was enough interest I would buy a case of 12 cans and get it shipped to me and then I just charged what it cost me. A bunch of guys took up my offer and I went ahead and did it. The reason being that it cost almost as much to ship 1 or 2 cans as it did to ship a case.
Now, with all that explained, Billed you may want to contact Western Bearings and see if they can help or maybe there is a distributor closer to the East Coast of Canada.
I hope this helps and I also hope this post makes sense seeing as I had to take an Oxy after I got home from work today to control my pain and drugs and forums can sometimes be a real test for the brain.
PM me Billed if I can help out.

Graham

 

Here is a place in Ontario you could order Kroil, it isn't as cheap as directly from Kano Lab, but shipping could be more reasonable for small orders, I guess.

http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/

 

"Back in 2007, Machinist's Workshop Magazine published results on various penetrating oils that is very interesting.
The magazine reported their testing results of popular penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They arranged a subjective test of all the the tested penetrants
with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from
a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*

None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
50/50 ATF-Acetone ..........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone is a simple mixture of 50 / 50 Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone.
Note that the "home brew" scored better than any commercial product in this one particular test."*

*From various sites.

http://www.wisdomandwonder.com/link/595 ... oil-review