Need tires and I have some questions.

So from what I've pulled offline the tires that maxim x came with were...

Front: Bridgestone 100/90-19 57H,
Excedra G525:

Rear: 130/90-16 67H,
Bridgestone Excedra G525

I called a shop who offered me tires good up to 100mph... I know my bike has seen over that a few times so I didn't like that idea plus it originally came with H class good up to 130.

They quoted me $401.00 for both front and rear h rated instead. Mounted balanced and put on the bike... That's a good deal more expensive than I was thinking.

I remember bigfitz saying that tires with a line that goes down the center and all around have a way of wanting to line up with water grooves would that be an issue here? The reviews are great and its a brand name. The front does but the rear does not.


Rear: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/49/ ... re?ref=sho

Front: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/49/ ... cycle-Tire

How do you guys have them balanced and put on the bike?

 

I have Kenda Challengers on my bike. They are H rated 130 mph tire

Kenda Challenger - Front Tire

Kenda Challenger - Rear Tire

I have been happy with them and have heard good reviews from people that have had them. Seem to last too. Very good price at around $120.00 shipped for mine. But ended up costing me $80.00 to have them mounted locally.

 

I'm always nervous about brands I haven't heard of bit they did get decent reviews. Have you had the over 80 or so? Seem to grip well? A good deal of my riding is done on open empty 4 lane roads. My bike is actually rarely under 75. I just want something decent that I can be confident in.

 

Well, I have been away from riding for awhile so my experience is void for the last 20 yrs. But I have had the bike on the road since April 2012. And have had it over 80 a few times on the freeway and country roads. No issues. Last ride, I went with a cafe riding club to the Ozello Trail swamp death road here in the west coast of Fl. Most of the bikes were modern Thruxton's and 2011 Ducati. My KZ was able to keep up for the most part. I didn't want to push it but could have with these tires I think. No problems. I relied on catching up on the straights. Besides, trying to muscle my 525+ lb KZ is like arm wrestling. Not a great ride for the twisties.

 

I would suggest a good dual compound tire, for empty highway riding. The centre patch of the tread is harder for longer tire life but the sides are a softer compound for better cornering. As far as brand it's dealers choice really, I've heard good stories on cheap brands and horror stories on "Big Name" brands. The thing to remember is that a cheap or expensive tire is only as good as how confident you are.
So a good cheap tire will serve you well if you don't try going balls to the wall, on the other hand a very good tire will not let you go balls to the wall if you have limited experience.
All that being said I ran Michellins on mine twice, the first set were high mileage compound and worked well, I then went to a "Stickier" set and burned them out in less than 5000 miles. They were over $400.00 a set back in 2003. I would put Michellins on again in a second even if it was a hit to the wallet.

 

I suppose the Bridgestone Spitfires are comparable to the Excedra's. You seem to understand that for a bike like the Maxim X (that will get well into triple digit speeds when ridden aggressively), tires, like your braking system, aren't something to skimp on.

I had a discussion a little while back with my Canadian friend, and here's his advise that centers around the topic of tires for the X:

When you get around to buying tires.... my preference are still the Metzeler Lasertecs. I've tried about 5 different types of tires on my X with the sole intention of discovering which is best. The Lasertecs are the best, with the Bridgestone Battlax BT45s second, and the Dunlop GT501's third. All are dual-compound V-rated, but the Lasertecs have a smoother profile, better wet weather handling, and more even wear between front and rear. They weren't the cheapest of the top 3 but they weren't the most expensive either. After having tried all the tires I intend to try (except maybe a set of Michelins that someone has recommended), my X's will likely be wearing Mezeler Lasertecs from now on.

I have personal experience with two other brands. A set of Dunlop 404's (H-rated) on my previous bike, which I felt were adequate for a mid-grade tire, with good ride qualities and no groove tracking. The other set are Kenda Challengers (H-rated) that I now have on the 750X (PO put them on). My thought is that the Kendas compound is too hard/stiff for cooler climates. Even though they wear well (like a stone), that's the reason they aren't very sticky. Needless to say, I would hesitate to recommend the Kenda's for any performance oriented machine. They will soon be getting replaced with a set of V-rated Lasertecs, as my friend with first hand experience recommended.

If you can stretch your budget a little, here's a couple of links for you:
Front:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/49/ ... cycle-Tire
Rear:
http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/50/ ... cycle-Tire

 

My bike is running rebuilt forks, mc, new ss brake lines, rebuilt calipers, and new pads. I'm doing my best to make this thing as safe as possible. As far as tires are concerned I dont mind dropping $400.00 at all. It was just more than I was expecting I saw guys on here talking about like 80$ tires and I've never had to replace them so I didn't know what to expect. I do tend to ride pretty hard into corners and like to get up to speed quickly. I have yet to top it out. I don't know that I will. I will go with your recommendation and the price isn't obscene by any means. I plan on taking a long road trip this summer and want to make sure she's in tip top shape. Thank you very much for your advice. I live in Missouri and I try to ride pretty much year round so there are times I do ride on wet roads so that is important as well. Plus I would feel safer doing 130 on tires rated for the 140's than 130 on tires rated for 130. I'm trying to get the local track to let me give it a go...

 

Dunlop. Nuff said.

Rule of thumb - hard compound last longer but doesn't get as much traction. Soft compound gets great traction but burns up quickly. Medium compound is obviously right in-between, gets ok traction and tire life. Check out dunlops website, they can give you the specifics of each tire. I run dunlops on my street and dirtbikes.

As for mount and ballence that depends were you live what shop you go to and gennerally how Much business you bring them (I live in a small town). I always take my wheel off and bring just that in. Less labor costs.

 

I loved the GT501 I had on the front wheel of my X: good grip, good stability, felt safe.

 

conti-go's, great tires.

 

The Kenda Challengers are in that price range, and I'm not comfortable running triple digits with them. You get what you pay for.

Setting the X up with V-rated tires will keep it within it's capabilities, even though they command a higher price.

And lastly, I'm all for getting on a track to really be able to find out what these will really do. Maybe one of these days.....

Tony

 

Hey Tony
I must have had a brain fart, the Metzlers were the ones I meant. The long distance were called Marathons and the stickies were Lasertecs. :roll:

Sorry about the brand mix up Ryan.

 

You're forgiven, as I do notice that your signature does state that you're "Old".

Problem is, I don't think I'm that far behind you.

Tony

 

Well shoot that makes my decision even easier two guys whose opinions I respect voting for the same thing. I don't do triple digits very often but I like being able to. I'm going with the "stickier" ones.

 

Hey Ryan, look for "Track Days" at bike shops or local clubs in your area. If there are any available see how much they are and check out how well they are run. They have several in my area, but some are better run than others, beginner, intermediate, fast, hot shoe, bike checks, safety equipment, medical on site, etc. Also see if they offer a "Mentor" for the track. I have seen TOO often guys (not saying it's you) that are fast in a straight line only to find they freeze in a fast corner with co$tly and sometimes tragic results. If a "Mentor" is available they will show new comers the correct line through corners as well as tips on proper braking etc. If that's not available ask at the track to see if any of the organizers are willing "show you around" it makes their event safer and put $$$$ in their pockets.
Also, any track I've raced on requires the removal of coolant from the bike and replace it with with stuff that I know as "Water Wetter", it keeps the bike cool but it's not slippery if it gets spilled at the track.
When all is said and done, "know your limit and ride within it" yeh it's a cliche' but it has merit.
Have fun and stay safe!

 

I just switched from Kenda Challengers to Metzler M880s, the difference is tremendous, better grip and feel, smoother cruising, and just better all around performance.

Massimo

 

Okay so The Metzler's are around 275 shipped. Not terrible. Local shops are quoting me either $85 to take them off the bike and do it or $40.00 if i bring them in for mount and balance. Someone offered to "static" balance them for $20.00 and mount for free (old friend). If my bike will see into triple digits is static balance okay? I always thought they did it on a computer not just sort of free hand?

 

Balanced is balanced, but it's a matter of the mech doing the job that makes a difference. I'm surprised you couldn't find a dealership to mount and balance for $30, that's the rate in NWA. Metzler's are VERY good tires, you can't go wrong with them. Be sure and keep an eye on your pressure so you don't prematurely wear them out, they are sticky so low pressure will kill them quick.

Hallett raceway offers track time. They are just west of Tulsa, OK which is a good drive for you, maybe six hours, but an option anyway. Pretty much need ATGATT and there is a small fee, but it's more fun than most things that cost as much. The 550 was loving it past red.

http://www.hallettracing.net/

Check out the MLD link bottom right. It's a great road-race track, some nice switchbacks, sweeping turns, elevation change and very well maintained. Plus if you wipe out there are no immovable objects in your path! Medics are always on hand, just in case.

 

Thank you. I will take a look into that track. Im actually planning a trip to Tulsa to visit a friend so it may not be a bad idea to do it while down there.

 

Four hundred bucks seems a bit high to me, even installed on the bike. For my D404's I paid just over $200 for mounting and balancing.

 

The only major concern will be if you happen to lay the bike down 6 hours from home. No one plans on that happening but it's possible, so for something that far away trailering might be your best bet. Even if you keep it shiny side up something might break so you still have to get home.
Like Merc said ATGATT, check out what the minimum is for riding on the track and then try to exceed it!

 

Iron Pony has the following tires...

Bridgestone BT45 Battlax (Great Tire)
Front 100/90-19 V Rated $102.99
Rear 130/90-16 V Rated $118.99

Bridgestone S11 Spitfire (Good Tire)
Front 100/90-19 H Rated $92.99
Rear 130/90-16 H Rated $113.99

The Kenda Challengers were $61.99 Front and $80.99 Back (Would not recommend Kenda for various reasons)

 

Thanks guys for all of the input the Metzlers should be here and mounted on my bike either Sunday or early next week. You're right maxim x that's a good idea. Better safe than sorry...

I personally dont want tires that are just "alright" which is why I opted for a more expensive option. I considered the Spitfire but read conflicting things. The fact that the Metzler has come HIGHLY praised from 3 people so far is a good sign to me. I'll post pictures of them up and let you guys know how they do once broken in.

I'm seriously excited to see how she handles with better tires.

 

Glad to see the comment "Broken in" in your post Ryan. Lots of people don't know that brand new tires need to be "scuffed" or "broken" in. My friend Mark, an experienced rider that has been on bikes for decades made a newbie error with a new set of tires. He'd had the tires installed over the winter months all ready to go for the upcoming riding season, the local weather took a really nice turn so he got the bike out and figured he'd go for a "SPIN" around the block. Spin turned into exactly what happened, he went out the end of his driveway and gave it just a little gas and WHOOP! he was down. He spun out the rear tire on his beutiful 78 Honda 750 and ended up with a scratched up bike, loss of dignity, and a broken ankle that kept him off the bike for about three months.
If you do take them off the bike to go to the shop, make sure to put a piece of masking tape on each rim that shows the direction of rotation and check them before you pay and leave the store, it happened to me and had to have the tire taken off and re-installed. I made sure they showed the tire to me before they put it back on to make sure there wasn't any bead damage.
I think you made a wise choice.

 

You're lucky the weather is cooperating in your area. Lots of Black Ice here keeps me from taking a ride.

Make sure you scrub off any residue from having them mounted and balanced before heading out for a ride.

Be safe. We're looking forward to your evaluation.

Tony

 

we just got six inches in 12 hours....

 

Foolber you in St Louis? and yeah it got really nasty here. Lots of accidents and lots of stuck cars. My 94 Accord went on like a champ! It did take me 2 hours to make a 10 mile drive though. People in Stl don't know how to drive in snow or rain...

 

Where are you at with the rear shocks and the forks? If the bike has over about 8K miles, chances are the original rear shocks are all done. Front forks really benefit from an upgrade to new springs.

Rear shocks especially will make quite a difference in handling if you need new ones.

 

I could probably use new rear shocks on the 550 also. I've noticed sometimes when I push really hard into a turn the bike will set a line and then at some point past 1/2 the way through it will slip out of the line with just a little 'shimmy' of over steer. I've performed the rear swim arm test and it seems fine, although that test seems woefully inadequate to simulate entering a sweeping 100 degree turn at 70mph-how is a person suppose to simulate that much lateral force with their hands. My Dunlop rear tire is about 70% gone also-but I got a replacement this week.

My shocks are likely original and the PO was over 300lbs so I'm betting they are needing to be replaced. So two questions: best place/kind of rear shocks to buy and is there a better test for the swing-arm?

Not trying to threadjack as I think these questions are relevant to this one as well.

 

Mercury man don't feel like you're thread jacking! Hop on in!

Fitz the forks are rebuilt but no new shocks. I have actually considered replacing the rear. The bike has around 18k miles. May not be a bad idea to throw some new ones on there.

 

Looks like your turn for snow. Good thing it's raining here now and helping to melt what's remaining of the 3 Feet of snow we got in a 24 Hr. period during the Blizzard two weekends ago.

As far as upgrading to new shocks, I have mine set up with progressive's on the rear and they work great. It also helps that I switched to a standard Maxim wheel, as it shaves nearly 4 lbs. of unsprung and rotational weight, making a big difference in suspension response and acceleration.

On the front I installed the progressive springs and added 15W fork oil. I kept the spacers at their stock length but moved the fork tubes up 3/4" for a lowered ride height. That was done to retain the full travel offered. However, doing that altered the rake and trail making for quicker steering response, with the trade off being that it does reduce straight line stability slightly. I also played with the air pressure preload and settled on 7.5 PSI. Overall this combination suits my personal tastes, and reduces brake dive as well.

If you can afford to do an upgrade to progressive springs and shocks it's well worth it. Keep in mind that one will never be able to make a true sport bike out of a Maxim X, but the engine sure makes it feel like it wants to be one.

Tony

 

My bike right now seems to take bumps pretty hard which is probably due to the older OEM shocks. It looks like to do front and rear replacement I'd be in the $400.00 range?

What type of feel difference would I notice? is it worth $400.00?


tires get here today having them put on after work. But i probably won't get a chance to take out for a week or so. Looking pretty cold and rainy here but I will give you guys my opinion when they're on and broken in.

 

What you're aiming for is a firm ride with control when you want to have some fun, but not so harsh that it beats you up. The Progressive springs and shocks help to strike a good balance between the two.

The front springs are not that expensive, and you could stick with the recommended 10W fork oil and experiment with the air pressure. That will help in erring on the side of more compliance for a softer ride. I used the 15W on mine, as I tend to prefer a bit more control.

It's the rear shocks that can set you back a bit and you'll have to decide if you want to spend the money. They do offer a softer initial compression (easier on the tail-bone) and firm up when hitting large bumps and dips.

The combination of the Progressive suspension, coupled with a great set of tires like you're putting on, will bring new life to your old bike. If you plan on keeping your bike for a while, I think it'll be money well spent.

Tony

 

New progressive suspension fork springs can be had for ~70$

WAY worth it. I think I've said this to you multiple times in the past, Its WORTH it.

As for rears, progresssive also makes nice setups, thats whats going on my maxim when i have the money after i finish re-building my seca.

 

I also used 15w fork oil with the new springs and stock spacer, great combination.

 

Mtnbikecrazy I know! I was actually digging through my older threads trying to find your posts. So I appreciate you reposting for me. Any link on where to get the proper one? Or does Chacal have them?

 

Here ya go dawg:

http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pr ... odelID=520

Cant find em cheaper than here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Progressive-For ... 72&vxp=mtr

 

last year i got a set of progressive shocks for 50$ on e bay, n.i.b., they are 1/2 inch longer than originals and must be a oddball size because nobody bid on them. once i sit on the bike my fat butt determines the length. keep that in mind and you might find a bargin

 

I'm assuming it's safe to do this in steps? Like do the two in the front forks then the rear when I have some spare cash? Would I be better off handling wise doing the front first or the rear?

 

Also as far as the suspension goes.... Its part number: 11-1128

Is this a universal part? It doesnt say anything about length or anything. Just use the stock spacer? Install as simple as removing the cap. Removing the spacer. Pulling out the spring. Oiling the new one and dropping it in?

 

EXTRA! EXTRA! READ ALL ABOUT IT!
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pdfs/7100-105.pdf
http://www.progressivesuspension.com/pd ... s/3055.pdf

 

Something new on the tire front (and rear).... ContiClassicAttack

Radial

 

Wow I'm lame... was right there.

Thank you.

 

The fork springs will be bike specific - well kinda - if you want to take advantage of their calculations, etc. Fork springs all look pretty damn similar, so unlike rear shocks where you can just size em up and look at compression numbers, etc, imho i would just go with what they reccomend for your bike.

They'll look just like whats in there and at first im sure you'll think what i did and be like "wtf, what a waste of money, these look exactly the same" but once you get them in and RIDE them, you'll be impressed.

Pull the fork caps, pull the spacer out(just a metal tube), pull the old springs out, pull the drain bolt on the bottom of the fork leg, drain the old fork oil, replace the drain bolt and torque it to the proper spec, add the specified ammt of new fork oil(i and many others prefer 15wt over the stock reccomended 10wt) into the top of each fork tube, drop in the new spring being sure its installed in the right direction, put the spacer back in, then put the caps back on and you're good to go.

If theres a schrader valve on the caps, use a shock pump to bring up the pressure to whats recommended EQUALLY on both sides. I check with a digital pressure gauge with a bleed button to bring down to exact pressure.

 

For your capacity - thanks to Len:

 

that procedure sort of works but you need some way to support the front wheel off the ground. when you pull the last cap off to take out the spring, the forks collapse all the way from the weight of the bike and the spring comes up soaked in oil and might make a big oily mess.
get the oil draining, figure out how to get the wheel off the ground then take the springs out.
with the new spacer size the oil amounts might be different, the springs might come with instructions for different volumes or heights, mine did

 

Suspensions can be "Tuned" just like an engine. It can be as easy or complicated as you want to make it. If the suspension you have now is bone stock, then new tires and "Fresh" suspension parts may/will feel like you have a brand new bike even though you have put it back to stock specs. For now, just follow what the new part manufacturers suggest and ride it for a while you will then have a base-line for tuning the ride.
Here is a link to setting up the suspension on bikes known as "Setting the sag"
http://www.google.ca/search?sourceid=na ... Neq4&pbx=1
It covers the "Tuning" of a bike suspension, lots of links and info or just set it up as stock.

 

Oops, forgot about the front end being in the air polock, When i did mine the front end was in the air as i was also putting in tapred steerer bearings.

put on the centerstand and then a few tie down straps with a car parked on top of one end of the strap worked great to hold the back end of the bike down and the front in the air.

 

Handling wise, do the rears first. With the relatively low mileage on your bike, I doubt the original front springs are "sacked" out of spec; front springs are an upgrade at this point.

However, if your bike has the original KYB (POS) shocks on it, they were all done at 8K, max. Back in the day, we used to throw away the original shocks when the bike was brand new and replace them with S&K's (the company that evolved into Progressive Suspension.) The original shocks were well known for being completely worn out after 6K ~ 8K miles as well as not very good to begin with.

 

Thank you bigfitz I'll order them soon. Doing some work to my accord right now which has stolen some funds.

Tires will be mounted and balanced tomorrow then its just a matter of getting a nice day to take her out. Break them in and see what they can do.