Hello i am Stevo32 case splitting questions?

Hello as i said i am stevo32 and i am new here. And i am trying to split my cases on my 83 xj750rj and i have removed all the bolts i could find except for the torx that hold a plate on inside the shaft gear area. So i was told i could split the cases without removing the top end and i don't see why it work but you never know. I am splitting them cuz one day while riding i couldnt shift into any gear besides 1st and nooch, so i i determined it ewasnt any of the external linkage.So next step wwas to pull the motor and pan. And once the pan was removed there were gumball size chunkks of like a weird thing felt almost like plastic but idk. So here i am splitting the cases.

So i guess my two questions are how do you remove the outer part of the clutch basket and those bearings inside it?

And can u indeed split the case with the motor inverted with out removing the top end?

 

The gumball plastic pieces are most likely bits of the primary chain guide. Which is also very likely the cause for the not being able to shift. You will probably find a piece jammed into the transmission gears.

It is not necessary to remove the top end (cylinders, head) to split the cases. Just make sure that you place some cardboard under the motor to keep from scratching the camshaft cover. Once you have removed the clutch springs, and center nut. The clutch basket should slide off easily.

While you are inside. Take the time to check/replace the starter clutch springs, and rollers, and oil nozzle. You may also need to replace the primary chain, and guides.

Ghost

 

Well, sorta. Replacing the primary chain itself would require a top-end teardown, as the crankshaft would need to be removed to fit a new chain. And since it's not a "true" primary chain (it doesn't drive the trans) unless the motor has a really lot of miles on it, it's probably fine.

What you're in there to replace is the guide (that's what those chunks are) the oil nozzle, yes; the starter clutch should be cleaned and inspected but I wouldn't assume replacement until you look.

I hope you have a FACTORY manual handy; the Haynes misses or glosses over some very key details. DO NOT pull the motor apart any further unless you do in fact have a manual.

 

ok got the cases split tht wa pretty easy lol. and sure enough the 1 or two of the guides came off and r now stuck here are some pics, and how important are all theses guides?

 

You need to replace the primary chain guide, and the oil nozzle.

Again, you NEED a book to get the motor back together correctly.

 

The chain guide keeps the chain from rubbing/wearing holes in the case or damaging other parts.

 

ok i got one somewhere but if i could take it apart. Shoulnd't itr go back the way it came off.

 

when you put the cases back together, go to your local auto parts and pick up some sealant called Indian head. Its a liquid sealant that is brushed on. Regular silicone base will squish out and could clog an oil passage. The engine was put together at the factory with similar stuff.

http://automotive.hardwarestore.com/90- ... 13357.aspx

 

Actually, you need to (must) use a sealant such as Yamabond #4 or equivalent. Equally important is exactly where to apply it and where NOT to. If not correctly sealed, you risk main bearing failure.

There is also a certain "sequence" to getting the cases back together with the shift forks in the right place so the transmission will work correctly.

If you have a manual, now would be the time to dig it out and read it.

 

Indian head is meant for gaskets, not for metal-to-metal contact (such as the case halves). Use Yamabond like Fitz suggests. That's what Yama used then, and still uses today.

 

Thanks but if i wanted to use dealer sealants and consult a manual then i would have gone to a dealer no point in me doing it myself. I am trying to save time and money. I cant afford to spend 20 bucks on 1oz bottle of glue from yamaha. When i checked and there does not appear to be any sealant any where on the case halves'

 

The advice of experienced veterans comes free. Responding with that attitude will only make it harder to get your questions answered in the future!

Don't worry about the manual. When you come back asking why the transmission won't shift again. You will get directed back to it to figure out what you did wrong! Then you will get to have the fun of pulling the engine, and spliting the cases yet again!

We all are! These are NOT fancy, brand new bikes!

And hence the "or equivalent". If you can find something that works the same for a lower price. Then use it!
Don't use it, and risk damaging the engine further!

Your bike. Your choice!

Then I am sure it is safe to assume that one of two things has happened.
1. You are not the first person that has had the cases apart on the bike in the last 30 years. Highly likely!
2. You have yet to clean off the fine rubbery substance at the case parting seam near the crankshaft.

Ghost

 

well there wasn't a tude. Just saying consult your manual isn't really answear in my opinion but wat ever. Dont care bout that. I did recheck and i was wrong there is a very thin layer of tan gasket, and im talking microthin, it does goop up a bit by those seals on the crankshaft.

 

Here we go again; somebody who'd rather argue than do it right, for whatever reason. The bottom line is, it's up to you---

-Follow the book, carefully, when reassembling the crankcases or the motor will A: not shift gears; and/or B: blow up the bottom end within a few hundred miles, if that many even.

-Don't bother following the manual and you may have to take it back apart a few times until you do.

It's your choice; we don't just make stuff up. We were just trying to help you not ruin the motor.

Fitz out.

 

Edited to remove an unfortunate brain fart. Carry on. Nothing to see here...

 

Why am I getting a sense of déjà vu here?

 

NO YOU CAN'T. Silicone sealer, no matter how "heavy duty" is NOT the proper material for this application. I use ultra blue myself, but NOT FOR THIS.

The "equivalent" of Yamabond #4 is a product called ThreeBond #1215. It's not at all the same as silicone sealer. A tube of Yamabond costs $10 or less, it's not something exotic.

Failure to use the correct sealer in this particular application is risking main bearing failure. Please don't recommend otherwise.

 

honda has a hondabond i imagine there's a kowbond and a 'zukibond, there's even a james. ..........



admit it you liked that one

 

OOps....there seems to be a missing not in there. Post edited to remove doubt as to the suitableness of non-suitable materials.

 

I am admitting to nothing and employ my 5th Amend. rights........

 

Polock you always crack me up !!