oil drain plug not coming out!!

im trying to drain my out, but im having a hard time loosin up the drain plug..any advice??

 

It's steel threaded into alloy, constantly lubricated - it shouldn't give too much of a fight.

Try heating the sump with a propane torch a little.

 

That'll take awhile if it's got a sump full of cold oil.

Run it until it's good and hot. Try to break loose then. I think the torque spec is 31 ft-lb., but sometimes POs overdo it, especially if the crush washer is bad. 6 pt. socket is the way to go.

Use a new crush washer. If you take the drain plug to the local auto parts store they should have something.

 

If you are having trouble getting the drain plug loose. It may have been overtightened the last time the oil was changed. Using a normal ratchet, and socket it would be easy to torque the plug to 40-50 ft lbs. Triple the necessary troque.

Try running the engine to normal operating temperature to get some heat in the casting. Trying to force the drain plug out of the cold casting will probably result in stripped threads.

Make sure the sealing washer gets replaced, and the bolt gets torqued properly, 10-15 ft lbs.

Ghost

 

The drain plug gets more than 10~15 ft/lb; more like 20 or 22.

The oil filter bolt only goes to 11 ft/lb.

 

+1 on the 6-Point Socket !!!

The Drain Plug is Torqued to 30~31 FtLbs.
Righty-Tighty
Lefty - Loosie

Put a 6-Point Socket on a 2-Inch Extension
Put the Extension on a 18-Inch Breaker-Bar

With the Socket firmly seated in place.
Apply moderate loosening torque to the Breaker Bar.
Strike the end of the Breaker Bar with a Rubber Mallet, Hammer Handle or a Billy Club made from the Handle of a broken Baseball Bat.

Make sure you are on the Brake Pedal Side of the Bike.
Adjust the Breaker Bar to be at 90-Degrees Horizontal or slightly above.
Give it a whack --> DOWN <-- to loosen the Drain Plug.

 

rightie tightie, leftie loosie...

okay sorry i just had to throw that out there haha

 

I've had to re-tap a few Drain Holes because the owner stripped the threads because they got righty-tighty ~ lefty-loosie bass-ackwards.

 

Been a while since I heard bassack sasslang 8O :lol:

Did the o/p manage to sort this? was just going to mention that although it's technically a bodge, if the threads are crossed or weakened by a prev. owner you can (provided the bolt will still at least nip up a little) use semi-setting Loctite on the threads of the bolt to ensure it stays put & doesn't leak if you can't torque it without fear of finishing the threads off. Just don't add oil until the Loctite's had a chance to do it's stuff

As I say, technically a bodge but I'd rather do that than all the stripping down you'd need to drill & re-tap it without risking getting swarf in the cases.

 

impact. My cordless impact set was $300 but its well worth it. I use it for literary everything, its powerfull enough to take a whole front end of a car apart. And its not air so you really dont have to buy impact sockets, i just use my normal Kobalt ones and haven't had one explode on me yet, and those are over 7 years old now.

and if you cant get an impact, try to hit your socket wrench with a rubber mallet lightly to mimic impacting but be carefull and hold your wrench at the head to keep the socket on there straight while tapping it.