Top end rebuild tutorial?

In anticipation of the upcoming riding season I wanna dive into the top end of my Maxim and resolve my oil burning issue. I haven't done any compression tests or checked my valve clearance recently but I was wondering if anyone on here has done a top end rebuild tutorial. I've done some looking around but haven't found a really thorough thread. Any help?

 

Not sure if there's an actual walk thru' of top end rebuilds on here, but really the best place to start is to do those things you haven't done yet, I'd say to get compression test both dry & wet (max 1tb/spoon oil) done first & then when you know the results of this you'll have a better idea of where the oil burning is coming from. Until you know this there's no way to know whether you'll be doing full top end at worst or just stem seals at best (got my fingers crossed!)

No point setting valve clearances yet (though good idea to check them anyway) since you may need to lap the valves back in depending what work is done.

If you let us know what dry/wet compressions & valve clearances if known are and we'll go from there

 

What Dan mentioned above, along with getting a manual. For the life of yourself and others, you cannot do a top end rebuild without a copy of the factory manual (more descriptive) and/or service manual. Having both is a plus.

Below is a link to my top end rebuild two years ago on my '81 xj650. Since then it ran great for a year or so, and then more problems arose. Sadly I've taken the engine head off on several occasions because of forgetting to replace a crush washer, or faulty use of head gasket sealent, etc. The latest problem is not even worth describing; I'm embarassed to talk about it. Honestly. But nonetheless I could probably take an engine head off, and the cylinder jugs as well, with a blindfold over my eyes. Its not bad but if you screw it up on reassembly that's where problem(s) come up.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... art=0.html

 

Seriously? But you're gonna pull the motor apart, for what?

Do a compression test. Do a leakdown test. You DO NOT want to pull the cylinders off unless you have a solid diagnosis of bad rings.

Your problem could be and is more likely valve stem seals. Which only means pulling the head, and a valve job; NOT a top end rebuild.

Diagnose before leaping. It's too easy to pull one of these motors too far apart and then find it nearly impossible to get back together correctly. Stock 550 pistons are quite scarce.

 

There's only two good reasons to get yourself a Genuine YAMAHA Workshop Manual.

1.) It answers every single question you might have about doing Maintenance and Repairs to that Bike of yours.

2.) It answers every single question someone else might have when you need to hire someone else do Maintenance or Repairs on your Bike.

All the answers are in the book.

 

Thanks guys.

Just to clarify, I was under the impression that the head had to be pulled in order to replace the valve seals. Also, when I said I haven't done a comp test or checked valve clearances recently I was really saying that I have been neglecting my bike lately and haven't had a chance to get a wrench on it to even start diagnosing. Just planning for the worst and hoping for the best. I'll be in touch once I get into it!

 

Pull the head, yes. You had said "top end rebuild." That generally entails pulling the cylinders to attend to things like the rings and pistons.

It sounds like you're only talking about a "valve job." (Pulling ONLY the head.) The head does need to be removed to replace the valve stem seals. The cylinders would only need to be removed if you were doing an actual "top end rebuild" consisting of pistons, rings, etc.

 

Have withdrawn my suggestions. Thought it was a 650 but it is a 550.

 

What exactly is the oil burning issue? Amt used over what distance? Blowing smoke?

 

A little smoke, about 1/2-3/4 of a litre/quart every 1000 km/600 miles.

 

With that amount of Oil Consumption ... and ... she's "Blowing Smoke" ... I'd suspect there must be a Ring related issue.

Although you don't know ... for sure ... without the results of a "Dry & Wet" Compression Test.

But the Old-saying regarding what to do with an Oil Consumption issue is:

"Don't visit France without going to the Eiffel Tower!"

Since you are Pulling the Head, ... anyway ... you might as well do new Rings, Cylinder Honing and a Complete De-carbon job while you are only a few more hours away.

• De-carbon Combustion Chambers
• New Valve Seals
• Wire Wheel Valve Stems clean
• Reface Valves and Seats
• Lap Valves
• De-carbon Piston Crowns
• Hone ~ De-glaze ~ Cross-hatch Cylinders
• Clean Pistons Ring Lands and Grooves entire Ring Belt
• New Rings*
√ Replace Timing Chain if mileage > 45 - 50K

* After determining if Std or Over-sized Rings are needed.

 

Except it's a 550, and oversized rings are almost impossible to come by. Stock ones not much easier. Better to not climb the Eiffel Tower only to discover the DOWN elevator's broken.

 

If you need Piston Rings, ... for just about anything ... there is a Company in California that will make them for you.
You just need to tell them the specs.

Grant Piston Rings
1360 N. Jefferson Street
Anaheim, California 92807 U.S.A.

Telephone: (714) 996-0050
Email: info@grantpistonrings.com

http://www.grantpistonrings.com/aboutus ... rofile.htm

 

Here's a start...he may have more...

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/YAMAHA-XJ550 ... 0932218239

Think these are the 4th oversize

http://www.partspak.com/ProductCart/pc/ ... 167705.htm

 

Wiseco? they have rings in stock for almost anything, just give them the dimensions... But best not pull the jugs until you're sure (I.E. until you do a dry Vs. wet test with huge improvements)

 

Thanks again for all the help. I'm hoping that the weather warms up and that my work schedule will calm down soon so I can get to work on this. I'll let you all know once I get some tests done.

 

Are you back here, or still out in BC?

 

I'm home in Windsor for the next month and a half