85 Maxim X - On going restoration - Pic & Questions

Hello Fellow Motorcycle enthusiasts!

Thought I'd share some photos and ask my questions here... Hopefully, someone can take a pic or two to help me out....?

Frame back from powder coating.


Can anyone PLEASE take a picture of there wiring... Need help with starter solinoid layout.


Powder coated in my garage care of Eastwood company


More PC - Bumps are result of rust erosion, you can't really see this thing anyway.


Bolts


Carefully stripped and then soda blasted... Waiting for PC.

 

Reproduction stickers

 

Lets see if this link works, I've got max down for work but not a total strip. Still have all the wiring on so I took a bunch of pics and here is the PhotoBucket link.
http://s192.photobucket.com/albums/z90/ ... lectrical/
Let me know if you need anymore pics of anything in particular and I'll see what I can do.

Cheers, Graham

 

can you tell me about these reproduction stickers? how do you get them?

mine are very faded you can barley read the VIN

 

Graham thank you!

Warchol2
Stickers BDesigns www.bddesigns.ca Note vendor is VERY strict about anything that might contain a VIN.... You will need to provide detail info.

 

TonyHes,

Hopefully the picture links Graham sent got you on the right track.
If you need help with anything else let me know. I just did a 6 month restomod on the 750X I imported from Canada. The build date on mine is 1/85 with the VIN # of 000566. I'm still wondering how many of the 85/86 750X's were produced? Any clue?

Thanks for the link for the repro stickers. Maybe I can get some to replace mine. BTW there was a typo in the link for anyone who's looking to see what they offer. It's http://www.bdesigns.ca/About_Us.htm

Good luck and keep us posted.

Tony

 

OK, just went out to the garage and looked, this one is dated 2/85 and the last few digits are 000962

Then I looked at this one and the last few digits are 000698

 

Looks just like mine! Except mine is currently needing some paint... and I'm doing led signals. but looks nice man!

 

Some recent progress



The fenders are actually the same color, lighting is different






Next 2B powder coated

 

Old Yamaha owners will like this one....

 

Nice update Tony, are those rubber connectors from Chacal? Should make the carb re-install go a little smoother eh!

 

Looking good.

Not sure how far you're diving into an engine rebuild, but by the looks of the Airbox boots, you should make sure the intakes and o-rings (where they mate with the head) are good. Mine were in awful shape and warranted a thorough cleaning and new o-rings.

Tony

 

XHondaHack - I had a peek at the o-rings... I think they're okay, will have to take a look in the sun to know for sure. Thanks for the tip!

Maxim-X - I actually just bought them at the local powersports... My old Fazer had the same problem.... When I took the motor out the boots were just sitting really close... thing is the bike ran decent despite the boots and TOTALLY F'D exhaust

UPDATES!:

 

Shaping up nice! I wanted to make sure you checked the o-rings before you started putting stuff together.

Looks like your leaving the matte red for your body color. Very unique.

 

The black hi-light on the side rails makes the lettering really pop!
Great looking build so far.

 

Looks nice a clean.

Mine is 3571.

Here's one for you to wrap your head around....... my other MaximX frame has NO number of any sort on it. No sticker, No stamping, NO GRINDING OR FILLING....it's like that, original and from the factory.

I know why, let's see if you do................................

Dave F

 

Ummmm, because you stripped it completely for a rebuild and you are waiting for some repro stickers? :?
Did I win, did I win? :roll: :roll:

 

Replacement frame that was never stamped?

 

Could it be a prototype that Yamaha never "destroyed"?

I was asking a while back if anyone knew the production stats for these models? So I did a little research on the production #'s, and wanted to
provide an observation. It's based on the last 4 of the X VIN's members have registered at MicaPeak:

.............. Low ./. High
85 700X: 0137 - 4201
86 700X: 0850 - 2635

85 750X: 0466 - 1589
86 750X: 0166 - 0473

So I would assume the total production of each specific year/model wouldn't be much higher than the highest VIN# in the registry.

Any thoughts?

Tony

 

REALLY nice build, i love all the PC.

keep it up!

 

And the winner is..................K-moe.

The idea of a 'prototype frame' is an interesting thought, though! That would have been cool!

dave F

 

X2 on the black background on the side rails.

 

Oooo.......seems that I might "know stuff". Can't wait to tell my son :lol:

 

Sure. Probably. This is an interesting question; the only variable being we have no idea how many VERY similar models (but with a different model code) were produced for other markets.

Per model code, yes; the extant serial numbers would hopefully give us a good clue. Except we have no way of knowing how many are MIA since produced.

I've driven myself (and Len) crazy on this topic in regard to the 1983 model year 550 Secas (all of which were produced in '82.)

 

K-Moe wrote:

Maybe someday our kids will listen to us...

Fitz, so I want to be clear in what you're saying. For example, Serial #000100 could have been one model, then Serial #000101 may have been another model in the run? Said another way, they didn't use a set run of VIN#'s for a particular model (say 000 through 999). Yamaha just randomly assigned the next number in sequence to what ever model happened to be being built at that point on the production line?

As they say, "The world will never know".

Tony

 

Next up... Valve adjustment!

I was hoping to find everything in spec... But NOOoooo!

Would you gentlemen be able to point me in the best direction for replacement shim sizes? Please reference the print screen....



Thank you,
Tony

 

What're the specs for the "X" motor; and those are "American" numbers, aren't they?

What are the actual metric specs for the motor?

 

Yes my feeler gauges are from my Paw! So they're old... Actually, looky what i found!

 

Tony,

Did the conversion for you and set up a chart for you to use.

Make sure you adjust the shims for all your exhaust. You don't want to leave any (intake included) at the minimum spec.



Being that you have some spares, you probably have most of what you need by swapping them around. Then you'll have to set it back up and recheck all the clearances.

 

Just noticed on HAP's chart that he specs out the shim needed to give you the maximum clearance for the intake or exhaust. You may want to go that route or do as I recommended, your choice. You just want to make certain that if you're going through all the trouble of setting your clearances, make sure they're above the minimum.

 

xHonda Hack

Wow thank you for your efforts. Amazing the good people you run into on the internet!

How can I return the favor? Would you like a powder coated valve cover?

Tony

 

With my experience in performing several valve adjustments on the 20 valve engine, I'm just looking to payback to the fantastic group we have here.

I also want to make sure we thank you for letting the group know about http://www.bdesigns.ca. They are an invaluable source that has the ability to reproduce the VIN stickers, and other hard to find items.

And thanks for graciously offering up the cover, but I couldn't accept.

I should mention, on the hand written outline that I provided, make sure you note what shim you put in. That way if you have any discrepancies when you recheck the clearances, you'll know the size to swap in (before you have to take it apart again).

BTW, how many miles are on that engine? By the looks of the shim sizes, my guess is that the valve adjustments have never been done.

 

X HondaHack - Well... I'm glad I've been able to help! Hope I can help more in the future.


Updates!
Tires... Yes I'm way over budget so don't ask about the brand. And the rims, well I cannot do them this year... As clean as they can be.



Clutch Cover - Pretty Silver Letters


Why I'm over budget. Sweet Original Exhaust (After Polish)





Cleaning calipers took FoREvEr! And, new seals installed. But a good friend helped! New steel braided brake lines, rebuilt reservoir


Original Bike - Looks good but when it came apart oh boy. The exhaust bolt is the only thing holding the cans there.

 

HondaHack - BTW yes over 60k I'm sure... And judging by the overall condition... Nobody had money for maintenance... Oh man....

 

"Neglected" should be the term applied, and seems to be the case for most all of the older bikes. I'm glad to see that the budget is taking care of the safety items. Make sure the rear brake shoes are still good.

I repainted my wheels. It didn't cost much for a couple of spray cans of paint, but it sure took forever.

 

xHondaHack: Brake shoes are good, I saw the post about brake lines and figured since the brake fluid had changed to P00P and the metal casing around the lines was completely rusted... the writing was on the wall.


SOOO.... Update time...

Controls... I wondered if I could mod something a little more modern to fit, but since these were metal I just went with it.


Now, i dunno if this makes any sense to you... I always liked bikes, I'd like a new bike but... NOBODY makes and inline 4 cruiser anymore...

This is a little bit of mixing boy/ricer racer with what I think is a big miss on the part of bike manufactures... I actually wanted a more honda civic red wrinkle.... I know this won't be for everyone.

 

Hey Tony, that textured look is something else man. I'm not partial to red, but the black and silver on the original colour scheme would do it for me, nice thread.

 

Love the idea of the red wrinkled finish, looks awesome. I know how much goes into refinishing the covers, as I've done three so far.

Depending on the color of the bike, the red may or may not clash? Personally, I think it will really pop on a black or silver bike.

Nice job on the control switch covers too. Some actually polish and clear them.

And, as you noted, nobody makes an inline 4 cruiser, just Harley clones with a V-twin. That's the reason I ended up buying an X, as there's nothing like it out there, new or old.

 

looks great. here are before after pics of mine. Spent a lot of time polishing. Looked bad when former owner made it a bobber. lot of time in mine still need to do the carbs

 

Hap?: Yes I have some concern with clash... I'll find out in month after I get the motor painted...

XHondaHack: Been enjoying your work... What did you paint your motor with?
What are those black handlebars?

Cutless: Nice work... Do you have a video of what you did?

 

The handle bars are Renthal "Street Fighters" that I also added 15mm risers to. I also narrowed them a half inch each side and added bar end weights.

For the paint, I used Rustoleum Engine Enamel in Gloss Black. For the cylinder fins and valve cover I used the semi-gloss and topped it off with a ceramic clear made for brake calipers.

Cutlass-Your bike looks awesome!

 

Just a seat, but its original and it is in GREAT shape. $100 bones.

and would anyone be able to post photo's of there ignition lock with a ruler/tape measure infront of it? Mine has no sticker

 

Seems like a fair price for a nice seat set.

I can take a picture of the switch for you, but I want to understand what you're looking for. You say you have no sticker?

 

Well.. There was a round sticker around the keyhole, this is gone and there is a small gap/hole looking inside the compartment where the tumbler is...

Hope it is not broken!

:/

 

It's not broken, just designed that way.



You will need the original sticker (aluminum backing) or a very thin washer to support a new sticker available through Chacal. Let me know if you need a washer and I'll try to help you out.

 

HondaHack - I don't have the washer I'm sitting on the fence about ordering the spin on oil filter adapter... Thanks for the tip on where to get it. Everything is adding up quick in the home $trech.


For now.. Wheels on. (Was thinking of putting the engine in first and then the wheels but the engine requires more paint stripping which I must do outdoors, and the weather has not been co-operating. Putting the wheels on also lets me figure out what parts are missing/etc for correct fitment.

 

OH!!

Bit of good news from the seat! The OEM tools and box were still fitted to the bottom... Had NO idea this was how they were kept!

 

Bike is shaping up nice!

I've stuck with the standard filter arrangement on my bikes. Just my preference I suppose, as I'd rather spend my $
on upgrades that make it go faster or make it safer.

PM me with your address and I'll send you the washer for the ignition switch.

Tony

 

xHondaHack: rrr ummm you were kind enough to send me info about painting your engine... I've lost it, can you resend?

Here is my engine actually I made another attempt to strip after this. It has been soooo difficult to get the paint off... How much paint did you strip... or did you?

 

Well, I did it in stages. First blocked off all the passages (I did have the clutch, valve cover and left side covers on), and degreased the crap out of it. Then I went to work with assorted wire brushes and sandpaper, but didn't use any paint stripper. Degreased it again, then made sure it was as dry and clean as possible.

Next up I applied Rustoleum engine enamel in low gloss/flat black in two light coats. Then used Rustoleum engine enamel in gloss black for a good finish and shine for the top coat. Both are 500 degree paints and seem to be holding up well.

What I'm disappointed in is the fact that I clear coated the valve cover with the Eastwood's Diamond clear and it has yellowed slightly. Planning on doing it over when I do the next valve adjustment. I will now use the Ceramic Caliper clear on any engine/heat stressed part from now on.