Replacing brake and clutch levers...

Hi folks!

The recycling truck was kind enough to knock over my 82 XJ650J it the fall. Now I need to replace the brake lever. As I've never done it, could anyone give me some tips? I figured while I'm at it I'll replace the clutch lever too. Just so they look the same.

Thanks!

 

Sorry....just thought I'd add that it won't start and I can smell fuel in the oil. I do plan on doing an oil/filter change.

 

Did you contact the insurance company and tell them what happened? i got one of my bikes literally backed into and then ran over from some guys big truck. It was on private property so no cops were involved but my insurence company got me a check for around $1200

 

What he said! ^

Sorry to hear what happened. AFAIK there's nothing particularly difficult to replace the levers, just undo the bolt, remove the broken off stub, save any washers etc noting their position and inspect the mounting + microswitch for any damage/cracks especially on the brake, and fit the replacement.

Make sure the lever you get is suitable too! :lol:

 

Well, I got the old one off easy enough. The problem seems to be the screw that is used for adjustment (I'm guessing) is too big for the new lever! Back to the shop I guess...either for a new lever or new screw.

Yes, I did get insurance for it. Sadly they only gave me $364.

 

The one on the inside of the brake lever that pushes the M/C piston? That's the free play adjuster yes, and it should fit OK unless it's an aftermarket lever with diff. thread & then it really should have come with the adjuster (and lock nut) included.

That's not too bad a payment if only the levers were damaged!

 

yea i got alot cause my bike was just restored (my first restoration), most of it was from my entire front end (forks, triple tree, bars, ect) was noticeably out of wack. Plus my agent was an avid rider himself so he payed great attention to detail on my bike.

 

Unfortunately, he bent my rear fender and broke the tail light cover as well. Just to update, I was able to get both levers changed! Thanks for the help!

I'm going to start a new thread due to my present issue. Has not been able to start since the tip over.

 

Just a note, you said you can smell gas in the oil. DONT!!! try to start up until you've changed that oil, for fear of running a bearing in the motor.

With any luck it was just caused by the bike tipping over & emptying the float bowl contents into the breather, but it is worth also checking that your fuel tap is not left on PRI and that it shuts off the flow when in ON or RES & the engine is not running.

Also, once the oil's changed you could try putting the tap on PRI for 30 seconds before trying to start for the same reason (the float bowls may now be empty) but please don't turn it over before new oil & filter are in, perhaps check the air filter isn't soaked in gas too :wink:

 

I changed the oil and filter before trying to start it up. The petcock seems to be working properly as I took the tank off with the petcock in the on position and fuel didn't come out. When I put it on PRI, to empty the old fuel, it flowed like crazy.
I even tried to start it while it was in the PRI position. Still no go. It just seems to spin and spin and spin but won't "catch". Spark plugs are new last fall. Battery also new and charged fully.

I'm completely at a loss!

 

You got a spark? Even if you have, I'd put new plugs in just to be 100%
I know the plugs aren't "old" but I've lost count of crappy NGK's that fouled after a bath in petrol, even if left to dry.

That'd be my first check, Also when you take the plugs out to check for spark see if they're wet with juice or not? (if you have spark but plugs dry, try opening the float bowl drain screws & see that the bowls are filling)

If you have fuel & spark, try checking battery voltage *while cranking*, it should be over 9v as lower could cause a weak(er) spark.

 

I'm going to get new plugs tomorrow (it's 10pm here). I'll check those things tomorrow as well. Thanks so much for the suggestions!

One more thing, should I get a can of quick start or whatever it's called and try starting it with that as a boost?

 

Don't use easy start no, these bikes don't like it & should start without. If you must try a "helper" then a *small* squirt of carb or brake cleaner has been used with less violent effect.

If the bike was running & starting well previously I'd bet it's just fouled the plugs.

 

Gotcha....I'll definitely get the new plugs first and go from there. I will eventually be pulling the carbs and giving them a good cleaning/rebuilding but that will wait until I've got it running first!

 

Well, a small amount of success! Changed the plugs and primed it and it started! Now, the problem is that it runs at 5000-5500 rpm!! Help!

 

First things first, Glad she's up and running at least in a way! Have you checked the throttle & enrichment (choke) cables have some free play and aren't sticking or kinked? I guess it's worth checking the throttle tube that the hand grip goes on hasn't pinched tight to the bar with the fall too.

if that checked out OK and the throttle is definitely not stuck somehow due to unseen cable damage/displacement, you could try backing the idle stop screw out a tiny bit & see if the revs come down? (the "thumb wheel" accessed under the float bowls, between carb 2 & 3).

If this brings the revs back down it may have just got jarred somehow, but I'd say more likely either throttle components sticking/dislodged due to the fall.

If nothing changes the situation, or if you can't get a consistent smooth low idle like before then it's time to pull those carbs. In this case the revs would more likely be an air leak, but may as well pull them/Church of Clean the buggers & check/rectify any bad or loosened rubbers while the carbs are out of the way (Don't try to remove the rubbers off the engine though unless you HAVE to, as the allen cap bolts like to snap). That way you KNOW 200% that you have clean carbs with perfect wet-set floats.

Best of luck, be methodical & check the easy stuff first, working towards the harder & less obvious

 

Maybe you knocked the idle adjust screw loose, maybe the choke lever is out of wack, maybe getting bumped over screwed up the float bowl height or you got a small peice of gunk between the float needle and the seat? Could be lots of things.

 

Bloke! You got it first try! I thought the throttle felt a little wonkey so I pulled it apart. It turns out that as a result of the fall, the cable has frayed a few strands of cable and is preventing proper operation. So off to order a new throttle cable! I hope I can get SS lines but I doubt it.

Thanks all for the ideas!

 

Cool glad it was something simple Mine had exactly the same issue except just plain old wear n tear frayed the cable & it sometimes hung up & others not. Potentially very dangerous on our bikes as we don't have a closing cable as backup so good job you found it now 8O

Len "Chacal" at XJ4Ever has stainless DOT approved lines for our bikes & although they ain't the cheapest out there everyone who has them seems very happy with the fit & finish (not to mention the service, Len knows full well I'll probably never buy anything from him due to me being in the UK but has still provided me with tons of advice & info on my bike, hence my recommendation! You really can't go far wrong with them.)

 

Wow! Funniest thing just happened. Had to move the bike to a different parking spot so I figured I'd start it up and ride it there. Well, when I turned the bars to the left, it went faster! Turned them back to the right and it revved less...looks like I musta pinched the throttle cable when I put the tank on...lol