1984 XJ750RL to Cafe Racer?

The long part still looks heavy.

 

Where abouts is it too heavy? Right, left, middle, top , bottom? Which part exactly? Not sure what needs to be changed now.

 

Kind of hard (for me) to put into words, so here goes.... the heavy underline that goes from the first letter a to the last letter a. If it was the same size "thickness" as the lower part of the letter Y then it would look symetrical.
Kinda like this, this is a rough edit just using "paint" free-hand:

 

The part circled with red is too heavy compared to the rest of the logo:

 

Ok then, I will see what I can do.

 

Is it line thickness, or the big scoop? It needs to be thick to a certain extent or it will fade into the background color, the Emerald Green is a darker color, so it needs to have some thickness to help stand out.

Here is another try, smaller scoop with the same line thickness.

 

I got 2 more, last 2 I am making, logo getting done tomorrow morning, so pick out of all of them that have been posted which is the best. These two are a tad hard to see because I have shrunk them down, I did a double stripe down the underline, one thicker stripe, one thinner to cut the line down a bit.

 

Been really busy lately, but still have some time to work on the bike. Painted it, decided that although the Emerald Green is nice, since I have a red kangaroo suit I wear riding, I thought I would look a bit Christmassy. So because the rest of the bike is blacked out pretty much, gloss black tank. Was kind of thinking of calling this the Black Betty project and painting Betty Boop on the tank. Just a thought.

I pulled the motor for reasons I don't know...I don't know how to put it back in though. Gonna have to spend some money to get a shop to put it back in.

Besides that, I have gotten a bit more done on the seat pan and cowl. All I have so far for the cowl is the general shape. I am going to try to keep the lines from the tank flowing back through it, as well as a line down the middle, peaked a little rather then just rounded. The seat pan on the other hand is coming along swimmingly. Got the shape pretty much done up, just tweaking and smoothing. The tabs at the back will be trimmed as well, but they are going to attach to the cowl. I am trying to find some of that split plastic tubing you put on the edges of stuff like this sheet metal, so that the material doesn't get cut on it, and also those little rubber bumpers for up on the tank to keep the pan off the paint.

I just realized I haven't welded the frame to the pan yet. The frame adds a bit of strength, but its also the part that fits in the little cup up front to hold the seat in place, and it will bolt to the frame at the back near the cowl. I am leaving the clips on the bike where the original seat locks into at the back, but the key lock for the seat has been disabled, so the seat could be stolen, but I am leaving them only so that I could put the original seat back on at a moments notice to ride 2 up if needed. Would look pretty ugly probably, the original seat on the bike without the original rear cowl, or any plastic, but it would do the job.

I found a nice little gauge cluster, XJ650 I think the guy said it came off, I don't have a picture, but it looks a lot like BigFitz's cluster that he had a thread on just a week or so back (Same type maybe?). His looks a lot nicer though still, but this one works and nothing on its broken, so if its a bit faded, big deal.

The one thing I need but can't find for a reasonable price (Because they are Harley parts I think, and you pay accordingly) is a slightly elongated bullet headlight, 5 3/4" diameter by 8" long I am thinking would be a good size. It has to be big enough that I can cut a small hole in the bottom at the back to pack all the cables into. But holy mother-trucker, they cost $300 or more! I thought I would have no problem finding even just the housing I want for a sealed beam for $100. That might be "The Big Purchase" for the bike I guess. I wasn't expecting to pay as much for a light as I paid for the bike.

I am looking at buying a nice shiny set of chrome shocks for the back, Zeppelin style marker lights for the turn signals and the brake lights and pods. I am totally against pods, they don't filter as well, and there usually aren't any performance gains (for cars I know, you may get gains for bikes), but they look so BAD @55! As well, since I have to pay someone to put the motor back in (God I am stupid) I might as well pay for carb rebuild, sync and what not, so would be a good time to put the pods on.

I also stuck with one of my designs for the logo. It looks great, but its going to be painted again! Haha! What color now?! White of gold logo on a black tank?

 

Also, for the lights, I was looking at something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Victory-Motorcycl ... B0049VXHNS

Or like this:

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/5-34- ... /AN-08-339

I would like it to be stretched a bit, and I like the little over hang on the top at the front, its a bit nicer shape. But I mean the cost is so high, do they not sell stuff like this for cheaper?

 

Almost done. Kicked it into overdrive! Will be ready to ride this weekend probably, which would be good because winter appears to have lifted from my area! I decided to change the tank from Emerald Green to Gloss Black with Gold YAMAHA on it.

Frame was great, was really nice after being cleaned, but gave it a coat of Obsidian Black Metallic for looks. Engine redone in the flat black it looks like it came in originally. Swing arm touched up with Arctic Silver.

Bloody hell! That engine was a bear to get back in the frame though! Wasn't very easy to get out! I could barely move the next day after getting the engine in. Honestly I probably held it in place, with some assistance from a car jack, for a good half hour to hour.

Carbs got a cleaning, but not rebuilt. I plan to ave them and the brakes done at a good shop next week.

I GOT A GAUGE CLUSTER AS WELL! Its just like BigFitz's that he had a thread on awhile back, its off an XJ650 if I am correct. I need to give it a Sexchange though. It will hookup fine, but its got the opposite plug from the one on the wiring harness.

*The right side cover on the engine does look like crap, I know this. It was polished Aluminum, paint doesn't stick to it, I didn't plan on painting it, but I have another I am looking at buying that matches the other side.*

 

looks good! keep it up! i like the emrald white iea over black/gold - perhaps even emerald&cream, could be sick!

However im a sucker for black bikes, no doubt about that!!

 

Black is easy to sell if I ever had to get rid of it at any point. I also have a feeling this tank will get a new paint job every year for whatever mood I am in at the beginning of the riding season.

I got a new gauge cluster, off of some type of bike. I have no idea if that is actually what its off, the guy I bought it off had put it on a 750 Maxim parts bike sitting in his yard. I had to give it a sex change, it has the same plugs, but wrong gender to the wiring harness. Same color code but some of the wiring was a little different, a few wires from the 2 plus switched around. Tested it out and it works great though and properly (It should, I wired it! Haha)

I got new bar end mirrors, polished the chrome pipes (they polished up really nice). I have yet to cut a bit of the back frame off.

Overall coming along great. Waiting on a headlight, and making a decision on turn signals soon. Will be finished shortly and can't wait to upload pics of it for others opinions.

Unfortunately with snow and cold weather I haven't really opened the door lately so the pictures for the most part suck. It was 15 degrees one day, shorts and t-shirts everywhere, then the next day it was -15 and snowing. -_- Bloody weather...

 

Got my headlight yesterday, it looks FABULOUS! Worth every 150 one of my dollars, and every day of the 2 weeks it took to arrive! Haha!

Bike should be done by the end of this week or next, can't wait to upload photos of the finished product!

 

Keep on the good work!

EDIT: forgot to mention that I have exactly the same intruments cluster on my XJ750 1983 (Maxim, K model).

 

I got my gauges from a guy that parts out bikes, thought it came off an XJ650 but we weren't sure, all I knew is it would fit with a sex change on the plugs. Hes got maybe 10 bikes at a time, and about half are XJ model bikes.

This weekend, the seat, paint on the tank, and a custom mounting bracket for the gauges & light (If you don't notice it the pictures, I tied them on with twine for the pictures). Not much to it after that. Directionals, tailight, odds-n-sods bolts tightened up.

I have a couple questions, the trim ring on the headlight came off easy enough, but the retaining ring won't budge and I need to get it off so I can put a hole in the housing and pack the wires into the light (Hide the big snarl or wires from the harness). Anyone know any tricks to get an Arlen Ness HD headlight apart? Haha!

Also, a question I think more people might know, how do I get the battery in my bike? I have never had this problem before, but the battery (which is the correct battery) won't fit past the frame. I can get it most of the way in, but the top, or bottom, or a side is always stuck out that no amount of "persuading" will get it in. Not sure why battery fit before, and not now.

 

I got a headlight like yours but in chrome with blue lens. Got it from J&PCycles for 70 bucks about 1 & 1/2 years ago. Motorcycle stuff has gotten so expensive.

 

I drove a jaguar vanden plas just like that for years !!

 

What's the retaining ring like? If it's anything like sealed beam ones, usually you just loosen 3 screws a little & rotate it so the holes line up with the screw heads... Picture? (if OnB hasn't already sorted you out)

 

Oooo, right in the wallet! I didn't think it was too bad of a price for an Arlen Ness product, from what I hear they make good stuff. I saw some blue lens lights while shopping around. Personally, I think the blue lens is ugly even though they do give a whiter light.

ElkHaven, their great cars aren't they! Well aside from being fiddly Jag V12's. The one I have is a 1987 model, there was 613 produced for that year, and they were Canadian only. As well it was the last year before they got the V12 badge (which I wouldn't mind having on mine! Haha!) and it is arguably the best looking Vanden Plas/Series 3 Jaguar. The mechanic I always take it to is a classic car specialist their favorite car out of everything they have ever had in there is this Jaguar, they love it. I have parked it next to XJ12's of the same year as well, and the XJ12's just don't look as good. I love the car so much! Probably shouldn't being going on about a Jaguar on an XJ motorcycle forum though, although Jag has XJ models as well!

Now, the retaining ring. Its not a sealed beam, it takes an H4 bulb that plugs into the reflector. The retaining ring looks like it comes out the same way the trim ring does, screws out, but boy on boy, its in there for the long haul! Can't get it to budge. It has 3 small dimples around its edge, I imagine for some special tool they want you to buy, I could weld one together using nails that fit the holes, but I rather not be having to do all that for this ring. I Googled it a bit last night and lots of people said put and allen key in one hole, angle it and tap with a hammer. I got it to move a bit, I think, maybe my eyes were playing tricks on me. I checked and there are no other set screws or anything holding it. If I HAVE to I will make a tool to remove it, if there is an easier way, that would be fabulous.

 

I wasn't saying if it was a sealed beam (would be damn cheeky to charge that much for a sealed beam light, and a shame to throw away the nice lens design every time a filament went too!) just it may have been similar retainer, but sounds way different retaining system to that anyhow. Mr. Ness wants you to line his other pocket as well :?

Sweet looking car by the way like those wheels. Bet living where you do there's no trouble with the headlining sagging down either, one thing that spoiled almost every other Jag or Daimler I've seen, is the heat from the sun kills the headlining's glue & it dropped. 12cyl's unrivalled for smooth creamy torque though

 

Haha! Yeah! Well it is a Harley part, so you are paying accordingly I guess. I hate places that do stuff like that though, sell you something and make you buy their stuff to continue using it. I will probably make my own, hopefully it works and I will be good to go getting the wires in there.

I love the wheels, I like chrome but I don't mind a little carbon fiber either, and in the right amounts is goes a long way! But not even here do we escape the saggy headliners. Its been re-glued a year or 2 ago because a little bit started to peel away. The 12 is fantastic for "creamy torque"! (I like that saying!) Not so fantastic on fuel econ though, 9 city (Guess I will be lining the gas companies pockets as well), but 26 hwy isn't bad though, its a good touring car.

 

phew 9mpg city driving! you got them SU's tuned up pretty nice it seems, 4-5 isn't uncommon they do have a thirst I'll admit, but you know it's worth it. Did you do the re-glue it yourself, and how? I developed a technique using an old vacuum cleaner to scrape the sponge/dust off the backing & material that worked pretty well but never bothered with new foam just stuck the material direct to the "biscuit".

Anyway back on track, yea it's a cheap (expensive!), nasty trick with the headlamp & could leave people stranded if a bulb goes at night and they didn't know about the retainer Best of luck making your own, you'll have to start flogging them to Hardly Dangerous owners for half the price!

 

My light isn't a Arlen Ness, so that's why it was cheaper.
Nice Jag, still have the original motor or have you converted? When I worked on cars, the last vehicle anyone wanted to work on was a Jag. :lol:

 

mine was a 1983 vanden plas with dayton wire wheels and perelli tires .

 

Didn't seem like anything was cheaper so I thought go with a brand that seemed good. Looks like I will have to build a tool to get the retaining ring off though. -_-

Yep, all original under the hood. When you lift the hood though, there is so much in there you would swear its not an engine but a solid block of metal, I totally understand why no one wants to work on them, and fuel injection is a pain as well. I was thinking of converting it to a lump so I could drive it and causally rebuild the V12 sometime. Plus it would be fun to see what you could do with a 454 under the hood. I would definitely rebuild it myself, apparently it takes 30 straight hours with 3 people to take the engine out of the car, would run a lot in shop labor.

750bloke, no, I had my mechanic re-glue it (my laziness). I did pull it out and take the material off myself, and then that was when laziness kicked in. I have no idea if it has foam under it actually. I have heard lots of people just glue right to the biscuit. Also, are you still looking for carbs for your bike? There a 750RL which should have the carbs you want on it parked in a salvage yard out the opposite side of town. If you need some I can call them up and see if they would part with them, and for how much. I will send you a private message as well.

 

I like wire wheels, just not on this car (personal preference though). Boy that is a good looking Jag! Similar color, it is original? Mine was repainted though a slightly brighter version of the Jag burgundy awhile back. My father has an 1968 Austin Healey 3000 with wire wheels, put 72 spokes on over the original 60 (but kept the 60 spokes in storage for originality) and they look fabulous, they have a great look to them. I wouldn't mind getting wire spoke wheels for my bike at some point though...

EDIT: Although, looking at the picture again, the wire wheels suit the car not bad actually.

 

Most people put a chevy 350 in the Jags, but a LS454 would be nice too. I had a 78 MG Midget with a Ford 2.3 I4 and 5 speed from a Ranger pickup. Hated to get rid of it.

 

It had mags with low profile tires when i bought it and i used to throw it into the corners like a sports car but once i changed the wheels i slowed a bit and went for look over performance

 

Mine was the factory 4.2 litre straight 6

 

There are conversion kits for lots of engines, right up to the Ford 460 if I am correct. I have a friend who has a barn full of 454's (Hes got about 20 different cars he wants to put 454's in) and he would sell me one cheap, that would be why I plan on using one. If you look in some of the pictures, you might see there is a 215 Auminum V8 under some plastic in a corner, been entirely rebuilt 10 years ago (Dad bought it 20 or 30 years ago for an MGB V8 conversion, I worked on it as a kid, never got into a car), ready to be dropped into an MGB now though (certain years were made for them, 215 will literally drop straight in, and weighs 50 lbs lighter then the original motor. No suspension adjustments, double the power, better reliability) Project to do after the bike maybe!

 

Thought the Vanden Plas's (for the 80's at least) were 12 cyl. only. It does handle great, but I mean the car oozes sexy, definitely a good car to cruise around in LOOKING good.

 

no infact very few were v - 12's ..

 

Really? Good to know!

 

Now your really making me miss the old MG.

 

I can understand that, what technique did you use, through the screen or take the seats out? (I've heard you can leave the screens in & get it through a back door if the seats are removed but never tried it!) Also never realised it was injected, that's where the "economy" is coming from :lol: the carb ones got about 5mpg!


And YES! thank you 8) PM returned

 

Time to buy another maybe? They are pretty dirt cheap.

750bloke, I didn't have to take anything out, found a blog or something with very detailed instructions on how to turn and twist this here and there to get it to come out the back door without removing seats or windshield/windscreen. Reverse the process to get it back in (I would think, but the mechanic did it so I dunno how he actually did it).

I wouldn't mind having a carbed one though, might actually be able to do some work on it my self then!

I'll get on the carbs today.

 

Oh that's pretty cool, everyone I've known reckoned it couldn't be done & mine had *whispers* rot that required the rear screen to come out anyway so it got squeezed through the hole...

Thanks appreciate that, would be cool to get correct carbs on the beast

 

Good news! The gauges and light are mounted, and all the wiring got stuffed under the gauges. For the gauges I took the original mount for the original gauges and welded a little bar across it with 2 big flat washers that bolts go through to mount the gauges, and it works fabulously. The wiring all plays nice with it, as do other bits and pieces, even the speedo cable is easy to connect. Not bad considering I eyeballed it then the next morning just welded as I saw fit. But with the wires, I need to make a cover for them because you can see them, all of them, and they are rainbow coloured, which does not fit the bikes motif. I planned to cut a hole in the light to hide the wires, but I decided that the light was too nice, no dice on the retainer ring (even with homemade tool) and laziness. Its far easier to make a sheet metal cover then it would be to mod the light. One thing I noted about the light was it only had 2 wires. Oh well, for the riding I do, lo beam is enough. Turns out its grounded through the frame and the 2 wires are lo - hi beam wires. I didn't even think to consider that because this bike has everything grounded with wires (Why they didn't use the frame beats me) so that was an awesome surprise while hooking it up! "Well, we got 3 pins, which ones do I connect so the light is on on lo, and off on hi?" Testing, and BOOM! Sudden moment of realization and happiness when flicking it back and forth from lo to hi on the handlebars and watching the two different elements firing up!!!

On another hand, the bike would only run on full choke this morning, it wasn't getting enough gas to run on less choke. Good news, it was just a kinked fuel line, so that has been rectified and she runs great!

On yet another hand, there is a small exhaust leak, you can hear it , and lightly feel little puffs of exhaust from 2 of the 4 headers. Again, good news, I let the bike warm up for a good solid hour, totally went away, and after letting it cool down during the day and starting it again tonight, has not continued. I think it was caused by the fact I polished up the pipes really well, and since it had been leaking oil from the valve cover had really grimed up the pipes for x # of years so I think cleaning them may have opened up a few little gaps where exhaust could get out. (It doesn't leak any oil anymore, just FYI, replaced the old gasket that was causing that as well).

And on the last hand, I am essentially down to just the seat, which I have put off because I am lazy, and because if it had a seat I probably would have ridden it already. Seats easy though, I need to rivet the cowl to the seat pan and then pad 'er up!

PS - I listed it as a joke on the local bargain finder to see what offers I got, not a huge amount of response, but all the offers were in and around $4500 - $5000! Not bad for something that originally cost be $500, and I am now at maybe $1200 total, and probably will be around $1500 once its completely done (going to have brakes and fork seals attended to by a shop).

PPS - I just thought of this, if anyone is switching gauges and the original gauges have a separate bulb for each side turn signals (instead of one light that tickers along with the signals regardless on side, and each side has its own display light to tell you which side you are signalling), to switch over to a gauge cluster that only has the single light you need to wire in an 1N4001 diode to each of the display bulbs wires (being aware of polarity) and then connecting them together, then to the bulb and the other wire is just ground. If you don't connect both wires together, the display bulb will only come on for one side turn signals and if you don't use diodes, all the turn signals will come on regardless of which side you are signalling to (and this will also burn out the 2 big sandstone resistors under the seat that control the blinker speed in a hurry). I will include a wiring diagram in a later post if I remember.

EDIT - And the horns are mounted differently, they wouldn't co-operate where they were.

 

First thing I was going to suggest even as I read it! It's a Hardly part & they obviously use the "old school" (read "dodgy") electrics... Yamaha didn't use the frame because (As I read in a magazine article by "ferret", an electrical guru wh rewires old brit bikes with earth return wires) "Frames aren't for carrying electricity, they're for bolting bits to"

Another common (but less commonly thought about) fix on the single "idiot light" for the flasher conversion too.

And the exhausts likely just carboned up after a little running, quite a common thing with turbo vehicles using steel exhaust gaskets for it to leak a short while & then "cure" itself.

 

That's true, I am personally a frame grounded person myself though. The simpler the better.

I was looking at it thinking, "I probably should have this light here hooked up for both sides" cause I would be the idiot driving for miles with his signals on. And it occurred to me that they would be wired right in with the flashers so I thought they would need isolating. Tested it and they did. Without the diodes you get 4 way flashers only.

Good to know! I was worried it might not fix itself, or get worse and I would have to disassemble again!

 

Ferret wires an earth return into previously "frame earthed" bikes very simply, he just runs a big black wire from the tail light along the frame spine to the headlamp & splices the battery & components into it along the way (and obviously uses a fat wire from batt - to the starter if fitted)

Makes things a whole lot simpler for when powdercoat/rubber isolated parts/subframes/age related corrosion etc get into the mix...

Over here a bike will fail the MoT test (roadworthy check?) if the indicators don't have an idiot light OR the front indicators visible from the seat (and post 1983 will also fail with no indicators unless primarily designed as a dirt bike IIRC)

 

I am glad we don't have those MoT's here. You have to do them yearly correct? If you have a vehicle here that is registered and insured and you don't let those expire if its more then 15 years old, you will never need it inspected. You let those go after a vehicle is 15 years old (or is it 10?) though and then they want a certified mechanic to inspect it, or if you want to register in another province you need an OOPI (Out Of Province Inspection).

I know here you have to have actual signals (For inspection, you can get away with taking them off after your bike has been inspected, cops don't worry to much about it on bikes. Cars are another story though), but I don't think its necessary to have the idiot light on the dash here. I could be wrong, I don't sit around reading the laws here on a daily basis.

Yeah, its not too hard to put a ground wire in, I just like the frame ground still. You have to leave the coils grounded to the frame though don't you? I had bought one of those mini pocket bikes once and the magneto on it was isolated from the frame and was grounded with a wire and it was always electrocuting a person. (Don't even ask why I bought one in the first place, it was an impulse buy)

750Bloke I can't get a hold of the shop! I hope they didn't close?! I will take a run out that way Thursday if I haven't heard back by then.

 

Yeah it's every year, and the state of people these days (dumb f*cks that don't know HOW to lift the bonnet/hood let alone what to look for underneath it!) I'm glad it's that often... Honestly about 70% of cars I think it is fail their first MoT at 3 years old :?

Why'd ya buy a pocket bike? lol sorry had to... our coils have the ground from the TCI, permanent ignition live & ground is switched to cause the spark. I'm not saying the frame shouldn't be in the circuit at all, just that it's far more reliable to have a separate wire for it (handy though to have the frame earthed as well for multimeter testing stuff & making sure if a plug wire leaks that it doesn't shock people like that mag!

I hope they didn't close too was getting all excited like, when you said maybe the carbs were there lol

(looked on ebay & there's a 700 on there local but it's got no carbs anyhow, plus it's seized solid, and lots other bits missing, and they want £200 start price ($400?) ridiculous price! 8O

 

True, here it seems people keep their cars fairly well maintained, and the ones that don't are farmers, so when they get too bad, they are left to die in a field, rusting back to the earth they came from!

I thought they were super cool and they were liquidating them...I bought 4 for the price of one...I made profit selling them though.

I hope they didn't close either, best prices in town, its where I got my bike from. It cost me $500 and it ran w/ 1539 original km on it. Doesn't get better then that. $400 is way over what that other bike is worth. Wouldn't surprise me if they only wanted $100 - $200 for the carbs. They are very reasonable (considering there are yards in town that will charge $400 or more)

There is some guy in my town selling a high mileage 1987 FZR 1000 (80000km) for $6000, considering its a $800 at best bike, he is nuts. But there is an idiot/sucker born everyday...

 

Stupid seller, said she was last registered in Alberta. Needs an OOP Inspection because it was last registered in BC. One they wouldn't give me a free or reduced price for an inspection even though they lied on the bill of sale, but it floors me that anything from BC needs an inspection. Seems to me the inspection something goes through in BC is way more involved then really any other province I hear. Here you pay $150 and it takes the guy longer to light a cigarette then inspect the vehicle (but its been a few years since anything I bought needed an OOP, maybe they toughened up!)

Good news is the registry gave me an "In Transit" pass thing good for 3 days. Going to take 3 days riding to drive those 10 blocks to the inspection place! Haha!

No more pictures or updates until shes all done and I am riding her around!

 

Took it for a short run to the gas station, and 2 shops for quick opinions on things that it needs for the OOP inspection, and back. 13km. Petcock seems to be leaking. Anyone know where to get a good petcock repair kit? Parts N More have them for a 1983 XJ750R under universal fit. :? Right, "Universal" fit. Never had a petcock apart, or even off a bike. Nervous newby here.

I am looking for either a repair kit for the petcock on the 1984 XJ750R, or a new petcock for it. Anyone know where to get either, for a reasonable price?

I think the problem is from where the fuel line attaches. The little barbed thing that fits into the fuel line isn't a solid part of the petcock, it comes out. And well it came out at some point, I remember doing it... I am sure that messed the seal up in there. Since I think its stupid to have that thing come out, could I use fuel resistant epoxy to just glue it in there where I want it?

The thing I am talking about is like a little elbow, about 60degrees, fuel line goes over one side, the other side sticks into the petcock if that helps.

I guess if that is leaking the petcock is leaking past the diaphram thing its got in there as well isn't it?

Suggestions?

 

Forget repairs ... unless the part you want is unobtainable. Go NEW with fuel components wherever possible.

If that means cost ... so be it.

 

I just bought a rebuild kit for my 82 xj750 on ebay and it works great no more leaks

 

Ok, but where to get a new petcock? I am having a hard time finding one like the one on my bike (fits and is a vacuum one, not just a shutoff valve).

 

A better question would be, will a 1983 XJ750 part fit the 1984? 1984 XJ's don't show up on anyone's websites. I wonder how much it would cost just to get the guy doing fork seals and inspection to do it? Hmmm, laziness and a lighter wallet, that sounds not too bad...