1985 maxium 700 with 457 miles on it

getting a bike going again after sitting for years in a barn/storage shed
got tank cleaned up needs new rubber brakes look good on it going to blead them, change all oils, ect good cleaning and grease it anything im missing. I also have the carbs off as of now and there at a buddys shop,
he recomends the dynojet kit and air filters
http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/4302.pdf
and the k&n kit
http://www.knfilters.com/search/prod...x?prod=rc-1824
im all for going fast but anybody done this ?
This one is just for two up riding with the wife my weight 240 hers 140ish both of us know this will be no speed queen but don't want to strugle all day

 

Good score I would leave it stock they seem to run the best. Not sure if he is trying to get you a replacement k@n or filter pods. The replacement k@n for the airbox is ok but pods can be trouble. Pulling 380 lbs around i would not change jetting. Most of the time it takes several times to get it right. Changing jetting most of the time make the throttle not as responsive especially with higher loads. You do not want to scream it pulling double just so it runs right you do not need it loosing low end power just so it runs a tad bit better in the upper rpm range. If you were 120 lbs jetting is not that big of a deal. Do not think you will be happy messing with it for everyday riding especially when your girl is on the back.

 

no the factory air box has a hole in it from critters chewing on it and the air filter is mostly chewed needed a new one was thinking this might be a good route to go seeing it needs to be fixed anyways. The rest of the bike is untouched by critters amazing enough

 

If the airbox is too far gone and you can't find another one. You could make a pvc air intake or a custom airbox to replace the original. Pods are difficult but can be done.

 

Te air box has a small hole in it on the dirty side of filter about the size of a dime, not a major deal but was thinking that pods were a better way to go my buddy has a tool to sync the carbs menomter? I think tunes high end autos for a living they just a pain to tune or just not the best way to run these engines. Another question is on the forks on this bike reseal them or just run them the way they are no leaks yet but it has been sitting long time no rust on the tubes tho

 

From what I understand about pods. These carbs are CV carbs. Constant Velocity. Meaning they need a strong solid pillar of air to operate like they were designed. Hence the original. Airbox separate boots design. The pod filters allow for an awful amount of turbulence. If your going to do it plan on atleast a handful of trying different jet combos. There have been a few guys that design velocity stacks to stagger the pods and allow a nice pillar of air to form. Search it. Oh and don't forget to pull that back wheel and check the shoes for delamination. There is a sticky about it at the top of this forum. Deadly situation. Welcome to the family bud. Congrats on the score.

 

Thanks and yes got new rear shoes on order as no one in my area thinks to stock parts for bikes older than 5 years old lol thinking I might just find a stock air box and try to get the tar out of these carbs...

 

Yeah my carbs were relatively tared. But with some patience they cleaned up fantastic. Id Defo try stock airbox first. Up at the top of the page the xj forever motor. Click on that to get to the huge parts catalog chacal has put together. Literally every part you will ever need and the knowledge to back em up. Shoot him a pm with anything u need and he will come through. Also im sure your tires are way past the 6 yr window or whatever length of time they are good for. I think its 12 actually. Im sure someone will confirm.

 

I was under the impression that rejetting would be required if the K & N filter was used in the airbox. I was also told that the UNI foam filter would not require rejetting. Did I miss something?

 

i have replaced probably close to a hundred of them in air boxes before as long as the airbox has not been modified or exhaust never had a problem. The main restriction is the hole in the airbox that feeds air. Bikes in the late 70s and later had to pass emissions so what the manufacturers did was jet them leaner on the idle circuit since that is where the test was taken and they ran them rich on top. The reason they ran rich on top was so they did not melt pistons and have warranty claims. If the carb floats are set right and everything is good valve adjustments good compression ect. If there is something not correct in the system you need more fuel to compensate.

 

VALVE CHECK FIRST!!!
Stock air box, Uni Filter, stock jets, clean the carbs, and shim the needles, one or two washers.
Bench sync the carbs.
Set the air fuel mixture to 2 3/4 turns, on the hair of lean.
Double check for air leaks on the carb boots.
Spray with brake cleaner and see if the RPMS rise. If so, replace the boots with alternate Home Depot replacement.

Get em clean, get that airbox fixed or patched, ride that bad girl into the ground.
Freakin love those 700s

 

Air box repaired looks solid and unless you take it out y'all would never know tearing the carbs down one at a time tonight, hope I get em right :lol:

 

Was going to get a drop in K&N filter for the airbox, or should I get the uni filter I have one of them in my XL never had a problem with it what is better in the long run ? I like the fact I can clean a K&N the uni I have in XL is the same the local bike shop said they can only get a K&N no listing for anything else??? They are not always the best for trying to find the hard to find stuff tho...

 

Uni is cheaper.
They do the same thing

 

ok will get the uni on order thanks

 

Ok going at these carbs again tonight also need to figure out the petcock on the tank. It does flow some fuel on pri none in res or on two different ports on this. one goes to the intake boot, I assume that pri is prime should fuel come out of that line to prime #2 cyl only or should this have a split in it to go to all four?

 

The line from the intake boot provides vacuum to operate the petcock. If your not getting flow on the RES setting, the filter in the tank is clogged. I would get a in tank filter, petcock to tank gasket and petcock rebuild kit from chacal(xj4ever at top right of page).

 

:wink:

And welcome scrubby, sounds like quite a find with 457miles! possibly be mechanically "new", just the rubber/brakes/fluids and bearing grease to sort (and then whatever the time & the critters have done to the electrics & tinware, and what the standing may have done to the motor!) lol wonder if this could be the lowest mileage 700? Any other claimants to the title?

 

Motor is rock solid. I ran a bore scope down the cylinders and no rust, the last owner had it in for storage before parking it. I have every slip on this bike from new. The carbs are gum gunk and muck the tank has some slight rust in it have heard that fish tank gravel a big blanket and a air setting dryer will clean this out might have to give that a try. As for the petcock I called the local bike shop and they can not get the kit only a compleat unit and I am not thrilled on the price tag so I will keep looking, as for mail or phone order I will not partake in that to many bad things can happen when you do this thanks tho.

 

Len is a solid businessman. I understand your hesitation, but every order I've made with him has arrived sooner than he quoted, and with everything I ordered in the box.

 

X2, len's the man, trust us there.

 

One Carb is finally apart and clean I think anyone tell me where these things like to hold the last pain in rear bits of dirt lol. I thank y'all for the advice with Len on ordering parts I do not carry a card of any type any more for personal reasons but if needed I have thought of getting a pre paid card but unsure of the use of it. As in will companies take it.

 

I think the prepay cards operate just like a normal visa debit card, they just work as usual if the money's on there & decline if it ain't.

Len will be able to tell you which cards he takes I guess, I haven't personally bought from him yet but can confirm the Len's in this game for the love of it not the profit (he does have to eat though), usually if you ask him about something you'll get a response with the info you wanted & about a page of other relevant info you didn't realise you needed. Thoroughly recommended from here

The worst place in the carbs to clean IMO is the starter enrichment jet in the float bowl, if you look in the 9 yards & church of clean there's advice about how to know if it's clean enough (fluid trickling through isn't enough)

EDIT-: by the way, this is what other people have to say about Len Chacal's services... http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... =1455.html

 

printed the carb link out its nailed to the wall in my shop thanks alot for putting that together !

 

Put fish tank gravel in tank tumbled it for a hour worked like a charm sparkling clean inside of the tank but should have brought one more pillow with as I have a dent that is getting repaired tomorrow.

 

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... st21124954


The link if y'all want to see the pics of the bike

 

still have two stuck slides on the inner two carbs. been soaking them in cleaner pb blaster ect ect no movement the slides were stiff ( took days of spraying to get them clean) but these will not even come close to moving. Any sugestions on getting these slides moving again ? :cry:

 

Hate to burst your bubble. But those aren't Yamaha gauges. Least not to my knowledge. Im sure someone else will chime in. But really though before you bother to sync the carbs or bend valves check the valve clearances. Good lookin bike though bud! Also Len does take pre paid cards. That's the only card I carry. And I actually bought it to order parts on because you just can't find parts for these bikes in stores. And what you find on ebay can be cheap wonky crap and your better off to get tha good stuff from Len the first time Imo.

 

The speedometer and tack were replaced at 279.6 and the new one was set to reflect that as I have been told atleast. The original owner set it down and had it repaired. The valves are good and springs are new. I take it these engine's are a interference engine?

 

When you Google the gauges these do show up. I have the slip on the repairs from the Yamaha dealer and it stated that these were the factory gauges maby they got swamped out some where along the way I don't know for sure but I really don't mind the look. Even if the bike has a hundred thousand miles on it I'm still planning on getting it going and riding it till it stops again then tear it down and do it all over again lol

 

Those are the right gauges. 85 - 86 Max, the X model had a temp gauge in the center.

 

Next dumb question lol
What should I set the rear springs at? The springs have a "clicker" for preload on the bottom to adjust I beleve. These are set at lowest setting now and the bike will have a combined total pasenger weight of 380ish. If it is a little stiff on solo I do not mind just when on longer trips with the wife on back ( she almost half my weight ) I want it to be confortabule for her.

 

Answer is wherever you find it comfortable

Also, noticed you mentioned having the carbs soaked in cleaner to try and release the slide pistons. Hopefully you didn't submerge them because the stuff can eat the rubber diaphragms (although if they're that bad you may be replacing them anyway, but as fitz says, why force the issue)

So the pistons are too stuck to even push them out by hand? If you can get them out then it's a lot easier to clean the bore with wet n dry (there is a thread on how to do it without damaging anything).

 

The slider on the carbs are stuck. I have been spraying them and trying to work them free. Yes they are submerge them but will replace what ever I need to fix them found another set at bone yard if these don't free up I going to have to buy.

 

Strange issue that, I've never heard of them getting that solidly stuck... Do the carbs look corroded (white powdery residue)? I'm wondering if they've had water sat in them or something...

I PM'd you back about the carbs by the way, sorry I completely overlooked the message!

 

They are not white corroded but just tar and amber glazed I have one more freed up the other will come I hope. I will check messages later send you the info on carbs I'm picking them up this afternoon.

 

The amber colour on the actual piston is normal (a kind of passivate I think?) so don't scrub that off lol, but at least there's no corrosion in there... Keep at 'em and they'll give up eventually

 

got carbs all free now going in for the kill lol got the "bible" of clean on shop computer No easy task alot of cable run to do that lol. I need to figure out if I should set the carbs to what they are at again or set them to stock specs. I am in central Wi about 1200 above sea level .I got a merc tool to sync but need to make the yics tool yet thanks for the pics plans on here yall

 

Yall? You must be from South Wisconsin. LOL

 

lol No I was in the service and moved around alot after that I spent alot of time in Florida and Kansas now back to the cheese head state WI. living out in the sticks where I don't bug anyone but did pick up alot of my speaking down south after the wreck.

 

tires on wheels putting it all together tonight grease the axles ? and with what ? I have syn disk brake calp grease normal bearing grease or a bunch of other stuff to use any sugestions?

 

Personally I'd use copper anti-seize on the axle's threads, but for the bearings & axle shaft just use bearing grease to prevent the possibility of copper grease transferring into the bearings from the axle.

The grease seals should prevent any transfer to be honest, I've just never been comfortable putting ground up copper anywhere near my bearings 8O

 

Well rubber is on rear brakes done might try to tackle the carbs again tonight waiting on new calipers and hoses need to order pads and rotors are at spec bit I'm thinking of going with vented or slotted ones? Input on the best options?

 

well carbs cleaned and reinstaled still not running right so lets try this again thinking the slides are not right...

 

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthre ... st21217883



link to pictures of the bike

 

got 781.31 in this bike thanks alot yall for all the help just get the last tweeks done and ready for the season