'85 Maxim-X has spark, turns over, getting gas; Not Starting

So I've had my '85 700 Maxim- x for a couple months now and I've really come to love this bike. Well, except for the last few days. when I bought the bike the seller snowed me a little. Told me everything was good to go. Amazing what you can do with a power washer and a can of engine paint. The coolant leak was easy, just a new O-ring and no more coolant on the driveway. The oil leak coming from the front left corner of the #1 cylinder really came to annoy me. Earlier this week I decided to take it upon myself to remedy the problem. I ended up only needing to re-torque pretty much everything on the top end of the engine. Still not the problem. Now that the bike is all back together timing is dead on, torque settings are all correct. It turns over, getting gas to cylinders, has spark...all the typical checks have been made (or so I think). The damn thing just wont start. I have this aching feeling it might be something in the realm of a valve problem, (an area I'm not to experienced with). If anybody has a suggestion I sure could use the help. I'm really getting tired of the nagging, ringing, and high pitched whine i hear. Oh, wait that's my GF telling me what a so and so I am for F'n up the bike. HELP!!!!...LOL

 

you didn't by any chance remove the coils to work on the bike did you?

 

I think it goes like this left coil feeds cylinders 1 and 4 right coil feeds cylinders 2 and 3 orange wire on the left coil gray wire on the right coil

 

Let's take a moment to point out that there really is no "firing order" when it comes to the ignition; both coils fire both of their plugs every time they fire. It's what's known as a "wasted spark" system, one of each pair of cylinders being on the exhaust stroke when fired.

As for the valves, you definitely should at least check the clearances. Unfortunately, ADJUSTING them means camshaft removal; but you need to find out if you're flirting with disaster.

If you haven't simply mixed the coil connections up, then the most likely problem is one with the safety circuit (sidestand switch, neutral switch, etc.,) or the fusebox itself.

Then you need to go have a look at the date codes on your front brake lines; I wouldn't trust anything this PO told you.

One last note: be careful "torquing" the valve cover bolts; I believe they have stop collars on them like the YICS motors that prevent overtightening. The bolts don't press the cover down, the rubber "donuts" on the bolts do that. When you replace the gasket, replace the donuts, or the new gasket will leak too.

 

Ok, So now I'm in the area of about 97% sure that I'm going to be flirting with disaster. After calling in a much more experienced bike mechanic than myself it's looking like I'm going to be introducing myself to a valve adjustment job. 20 valves, some very good how-to information from the forum and Hap's shim pool. I've got the basics I think. just a quick question now. The numbers marked on the sides of the valve shims (i.e. 185, 190, 192...etc) as the number increases does that mean the clearance between the cam lobe and valve bucket is decreasing or vice versa?

 

Re: '85 Maxim-X has spark, turns over, getting gas; Not Star

I just did the valve clearances on my bike and the lower the # is on the shim, the narrower the shim. By putting in a narrower shim you are increasing the clearance distance between the shim and the cam lobe. Replacing the shim with a narrower shim corrects the "tight" valve.

 

The first step is CHECKING.

That's when you find out whether you're flirting with disaster ( a couple of nearly or dead-tight valves) or just have a few out of spec.

ADJUSTING is when camshaft removal comes in; the good part is your adjustment interval is considerably longer than the 5K miles required by the "airhead" bikes.

The initial check/adjust is the most critical, but often never done on any XJ, air or water cooled.

 

Thank you BruceB that answered my question in detail. Thank you also BigFitz52. I wouldn't have thought to do an initial check. Also please correct me if wrong, but clearances are IN: .11-.15mm EX: .16-.20mm correct? Again I have an '85 Maxim-X. Stating the obvious it's the water-cooled 20 valve engine that if I don't get this right will become the albatros around my neck.

 

NO. Those are the clearances for the aircooled engines.

I believe the watercooled X-motor clearances are:

Intake: 0.11 - 0.20mm (= 0.004" - 0.008")
Exhaust: 0.21 - 0.30mm (= 0.008 - 0.012")

But double-check your manual to be sure. (They may also be on a decal inside one of the side covers.)

 

That sounds right to me also from what I've read on here before but as stated do double check first

Also, you said you wouldn't have thought to do an initial check. You would have done, because you'd notice that once the cams were out there'd be no way to check clearance to know what wanted adjusting!

The cams only come out IF you have valves known to be out of spec, and when you know how far out.

Yes, the numbers on the valve shims decrease to increase clearance (the numbers relate directly to shim thickness, 255 is 2.55mm, 195 is 1.95 and so on)

 

While you do need to check valve clearances that does not address your current problem which is the bike ran you worked on it and now is wont start. Checking and adjusting the valves wont make your bike start. Charge up your battery and check your connections get it running before you do anything else.

 

Good point, compression check first off?

 

Time to forget about saving face.....I in fact did screw up by not paying closer attention during dismantling. Started pulling valve buckets and shims without making note each ones location. Sooooo, Yup, I F'ed up good in the beginning. However, not only has it been an excellent learning experience for me I've also come to learn that the bike was in need of a valve adjustment anyhow. A good set of gauges and some time taking accurate measurements found out every shim on the bike needs to be replaced or relocated. The good thing.....I only have to purchase 4 new shims. All in all....what started as a train wreck has ended up as a great learning experience and an opportunity for my to expand my skills and knowledge. Thanks for everything XJ'ers. Once reassembled and painted I'll have to post pics.

 

Regarding the compression check......that was my first indication I screwed something up good. 30, 60, 180, 40 in respective order of the cylinders got the sweat rolling.

 

Live and learn Brahma that's the best way you learned a valuable lesson that will save you from a lot of greif on future projects of all kinds

 

Agreed 100%, everyone makes mistakes & as long as you learn from it then all's well. At least there wasn't any damage done, bet those comp. numbers didn't half scare you, they would me! 8O

 

Agreed Waldo. The lessons we learn are achieved only because of the mistakes we make. And, when I make one, I do it well. Anyhow, I got my bike pot back together this past evening and just got back from burning through 2 tanks of gas. Damn, I cant stop smiling it's like a completely new bike. Now to convince the wife on how much it would benefit the bike to have a 4-1.Hmmm, that does bring forward another question. When I got the bike there was no airbox so I opted for the pods. I guess I was one of the fortunate ones. Bike is running great, it took some time, but got the air/fuel mix dialed in nicelyand it's all kewl. Now, if I move from a 4-2 to a 4-1 should I re-jet again and what would be a good ballpark figure to start with. With the air pods I increased jets by 25%. Sggestions?

 

Brahma, Have you met Chacal yet? Hes put together a little write up that you should probably read heres a link:In the Church of Clean