Bike getting hot cooling issue

Well finally took my bike Out after waiting
Two weeks for dealer to install carbs (thanks to Hondahack for
The carbs great deal) ran great but temp keeped
Climbing when stopped. Didn't get into red but close
Looked behind rad. And fan not turning
Question is does the fan always turn or does it
Have a thermostat and is there a fuse I could check
When I bought bike owner gave manual but
It's for xj700 (n-s) and I have a 85 xj700x

Any ideas advise.
Thanks

 

All electric fans have a temp sensor, fan relay and fan. When the motor gets to a certain temp, the sensor sends a ground current to the relay and probably a fuse, which activates the fan. When the water temp falls to a certain degree, the fan will be deactivated.
The thermostat allows the coolant to circulate in intervals.
If your fan isn't coming on, check the fuse first, then the fan, then the relay and then the sensor.
You need the right manual because the X model is a whole different animal.

 

Thanks for the info Ya I need a manual
I can't find where the fuse is that would
Have been my first thought also
Just filled tank and was hoping its not under there

 

I have the N model (airhead), so I'm not sure if there's a fuse or not. Just going by basic knowledge of electric fan systems.

 

Need a manual

 

So I disconnected the fan and ran a pos
And a neg line to wire leads and nothing
So guess i need a fan
Any one known best way to test thermostat switch

 

Is it a shop manual?

 

Joking
Just saying guess I need to get a 700x
Manual not this one.

 

http://www.4shared.com/get/DlxcxVW1/XJ7 ... nual_.html

 

Nice link to the manual Adrian.

Glad the carbs worked out and it's running well.

The pages you're looking for to check the fan and the switches are 7-50 through 7-53 in the electrical section.

Once you are certain the fan operates, be aware of the fact that this is where the temp reading will be at when the fan kicks in:


When the temp is reduced, by either the fan bringing the temp down or getting the bike moving again, this is where the fan will cycle back off:


Just wanted you to be aware of what these normally do. There is a fan switch mod that can be done, but you should get any operational issues sorted out before doing any changes. Also, it may be wise to flush the cooling system if you haven't done so already. You'll want that working at peak efficiency.

 

thanks for the info
didnt know they run that hot though. i was just touching red looked down and no fan
started riding and engine cooled off.
im going to look into adding a switch to operate fan manually.

dumb question but adding coolant can i just use reg. peak,etc.
or recommend anything else.

 

Having multiple pets I use a propylene glycol coolant in everything. Several years ago I lost a cat to the more common ethylene glycol coolant, because of a leaky hose that went unnoticed. Sierra is the brand that seems to be the most likely to be in stock at retailers, but there are several other brands. The properties of propylene glycol coolants are essentially the same as ethylene glycol (aside from toxicity). It will cost a bit more to buy, but it's cheaper in the long run then guilt is.
No matter what you get keep in mind that the chemistry of the coolant is what matters, not the brand on the bottle.
Here s a link to a forum that may be of some help Oil guy Coolant sub-forum

 

Fans are pretty reliable. Before you spend money on a new fan, check the wiring between the connector and the fan. The connection of the wire to the fan motor is a weak point - you may have a broken wire there.

 

Ya check that was good ran pos and neg
Directly to fan and nothing.
So need a new fan
I wanted to test the thermostat control
Switch also was thinking of taking for ride and
Setting up a simple light to wiring
To check.

 

That sounds like a good idea. I don't know of any other way to check the thermo control switch.

 

There is another way to test the thermo switch with hot oïl in a pan and an ohm meter, I'll try to find out that procedure in my files.

 

Testing procedure for the thermo switch is at pages 7-52 and 7-53 of the manual. I dont know how to copy only a part of a pdf file so I'll try to describe the procedure.

You'll have to fabricate a small stand with a pliable wire section twisted on itself to allow only the bottom of the switch to bathe in hot oil (any cheap cooking oil). One inch of oil in the pan will be enough.

You will also need a cooking thermometer that you could hook to the side of the pan so it doesn't touch the bottom of the pan. You then have to hook both switch terminals to an omhmeter and heat the oil . Watch what happens to continuity when temp reaches 98C then 105 C.

Then stop heating and watch what happens to continuity when the oil cools down.

 

Test lights are good, but they can't show a weak circuit like a multimeter can.
Had checked a coil wire once with a test light and it showed current getting to the coil, but the coil wouldn't fire. So I thought bad coil, only to find out that there was only one strand of wire that wasn't broke in the connector which allows volts to register, but not strong enough to carry amps/load.

 

Mon ami le quebecois is correct - here's the page from the service manual that describes the test procedure using a pan of oil.

 

Been there, done that, my friend in BC!