@%$^&*^%$@!!! Broken Intake boot bolt!

So I broke 1 of 8 intake boot bolts....now what? Anyone got a surefire way to remove the left over? I assume it is the old drill and tap. The bolt was pretty soft, as soon as I touched it just spun right off.....and I soaked with penetrent for a few days. Hell bells anyways. I do not want to split the head and remove the cylinders....the motor is out of the frame though. The bolt is soft and should be easy to drill? What is the best idea??

Thanks,
af226

 

Can you post up a pic or two so we can see the break? There are several methods, but the best one will depend on what the remaining part of the bolt looks like.

 

Lucky you only broke one...4 of mine snapped off. They all left about 1/4" stub sticking out. (I was already pulling the head off so the location of them wasn't an issue for me). I started with a six pack. Then welded a nut onto each one, a good soaking with kroil, heat from a propane torch, vise grips... and lots of swearing! They finally came loose. xj4ever carries the studs...don't have the part number handy tho. Good luck!

 

Lucky you only broke one...4 of mine snapped off. They all left about 1/4" stub sticking out. (I was already pulling the head off so the location of them wasn't an issue for me). I started with a six pack. Then welded a nut onto each one, a good soaking with kroil, heat from a propane torch, vise grips... and lots of swearing! They finally came loose. xj4ever carries the studs...don't have the part number handy tho. Good luck!

 

Smart man hitting it with a welder!
Good ol trick

 

There is only about a thread showing. I can just start a nut maybe a thread or so. I was thinking of lining a nut threads with JB weld and then back buttering the inside of the nut with JB as well, once on, to grab onto the top of the stud and get some grip. Let dry for a day or so and see if it will come out. Only issue is if I get JB on the cylinder the nut will be locked to it?? I don't have access to a welder. I was going to use a paper gasket to keep the JB from contacting the cylinder?? Thoughts?

af226

 

JB-Weld won't do and isn't THAT strong. It has 4,000 PSI of tensile strengh in ideal conditions (not at the bond) and a weld has about 180,000 PSI strength. A weld also heat-stresses the threads, helping the stud to release.

Drive your engine to an exhaust shop - - 5 minutes and you're done.

 

Seriously. Since the motor's already out and there is just enough bolt to start a nut on, take it somewhere and have them hit that "started nut" with a welder and weld it to the stud.

 

Ya I think that is the thing to do. I will update with what happens. Hopefully it will all work out? SS studs going back in there with anti-seize when I put it back togeather.

Thanks for the advice.
af226

 

I had the exact problem with two intake bolts on an engine that I bought. I tried everything. I welded a nut onto the broken end and that even twisted off right after I cracked the head from all the torque! I end up grinding it flush to the head and boring it out and inserting heli-coil inserts and tig welding the crack. Good luck and be careful.

 

Yup. Dragged it over to the garage and welded a nut on. Shazam, broke the stud off flush. Drill it out and easy out the threads. Chased all the threads on the 8. All is better now. I think I will be putting SS bolts with anti-seize back in when the rebuild takes place!!

 

Nah stick with dry fitted OEM bolts, could even add some Loctite, be much more fun lol!

But seriously now, I'm glad to hear you got it sorted in the end

 

I had to deal with a broken intake bolt also. Mine had broken off flush and thankfully it was only one out if eight. My solution was ... Drilled... Now didn't work. Hammer and punch then drilled.nope again. ... I found a diamond coated Dremel bit at the hardware store and proceeded to grind it away with that.. It worked but it was a very long process.I think it took a total of 10 his including the trap after. I rigged up a jig to keep the bit centered and straight... And my family hated that whining drilling going to the dentist sound that was emitted the while time.... Long, painful, loud, but effective.... B T W I was trying to use cobalt drill bits at first, then tried the black and Decker."black and gold bits...the first was ineffective the second was better but not great.