Starting probs and some questions about batteries

82 Xj550 Maxim. 30k. I bought it from a guy who said it was ready to go. He obviously BS'd me. Anyways when you go to start it it usually doesnt start. Occasionally it will. Do you think it has to do with the chokes? The bike runs excellent once its running. I usually have to use starting flud to get it going. While running and I choke it it idles up to around 4 grand. Its really bumming me out. The other question I have is how long should the bike turn over on a full charge battery? Mine maybe cranks over 10 times before it dies.(new battery) The headlight gets brighter when you rev it a little. How do you check the alternator brushes and where are they located? And oh yes could you please send me to a link thatt explains how to adjsut your valves? Any help greatly appreciated. I just wanna ride!
PS. Is 30k a lot of miles for this bike?

Chad

 

here is the valve measurement guide
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14827.html

i would follow that exactly, but i will add 2 things...
1. disconnect your battery
2. before putting the tool in place make sure you rotate the notch to the opsite side so you can pop out the shim.

and if you can get some one to help you rotate it while you are on the other side is a big help.

 

Thanks for the info. I plan on doing that sometime. I need to figure out why it doesnt want to start first. Im wondering if the enrichment tubes are blocked. I put seafoam in the tank and ran it down the road on choke a few times hoping it would clear it out. Its a major bummer when you ride somewhere and are scared to shut it off for more than 10 mins because it wont re-start. Thanks again

 

You won't get any fuel flow through the enrichment tubes while driving normally and you shouldn't ride with the choke on. The choke is for warming the bike up not while riding. Your nest bet is going to be pulling the carbs and doing a full cleaning deadpan can only do so much. Good luck and be thorough

 

What sort of voltage readings are you getting across the main fuse?
The glass fuses and fuse box are problematic and many times you will get a 2+volt loss across a bad fuse/box circuit, enough to cause a seriously weak start function.
Induction leaks from cracked rubber induction manifolds will give a lean-start problem as well, but "heal themselves"after the engine starts and vacuum pulls the cracks "closed".
If neither of these help or indicate a problem:
1) Do the carbs. Read Chacal's carb cleaning thread first!
2) Set float height. Wet set for final readings
3) Check your valve shim clearances
4) Synch your carbs using a high quality synch tool and a YICS port blocking tool (if a YICS-equipped bike)

 

Theres no getting aay from those valves. That is part of your starting problem.

 

Quite likely

 

The fusepanel has ben replaced I might add. Also. I noticed that theres air being sucked in through the butterfly valve rods on the outside of the carb. While running and you spray a litlte starting flud on it it slows down. That could be my lean-start problem right there. According to the previous owner the valves were just done last year(I seen the receipt). So...I dont know. I like the bike but I might just sell it. I could get a nice goldwing for 1500. I need something I can ride to the bar and when I come out it needs to start lol. Thanks for all your help guys. Ill post back if I fix it.

 

There's your trouble, right there. 8)

 

fixed it for you

 

It will not run right until this condition is fixed.

This indicates that your throttle shaft seals are shot. There are two in each carb, you can only easily get at the outer two of the eight. To repair this, you will need to remove the carbs, "break the rack" and replace the throttle shaft seals.

Because they are Mikunis, you will need to carefully file the back ends off the butterfly screws, as they were staked at the factory and cannot just be unscrewed without ruining the shafts.

My point being this: you have diagnosed the problem. There is no quick fix for this one; it will require major carb surgery.

And if you've put more than 5000 miles on the bike since you got it, the valve clearances will need to be checked again before attempting to sync the carbs.

Sorry.

Oh, and older Gold Wings have 4 CV carbs and valves to adjust, too. No bike (unless it's brand new) is maintenance-free; and all older bikes, regardless of make, need to have their maintenance brought up to date to be reliable.

 

Well this is all bad news. I have another set of carbs that came with it but the aluminum tab that holds thte float pin in is broke on 3 of them(no idea how he did that) so I cant use those either. So I guess my bike needs to be brought somewhere to have those done. What a bummer. Obviously the guy knew about it and just screwed me over..Well thanks guys, I really appreciate the input. I guess that solves that. Maybe Ill look for another set of carbs

 

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=18649.0


http://www.yamaha-triples.org/workshop/ ... Repair.pdf

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=17843.html

 

Thanks for the links. Unfortunately the previous owner tried to weld them back on and he did a hack job, the bowls wont even fit back on because the welds are large. I decided im going to just ride it around for awhile like it is until I save up some cash and Im going to bring it in and have those seals fixed and the carbs synced, have it done the right way. Its worth putting some money into. Thanks everyone