Valve shims???

Hey all, so ive got the cover off and ive measured all my clearances which are all tight just like fitz said theyd be. I'm stuck now tho. I'm trying to fish this wire loop down the spark plug hole but I can't seem to get it right because the bucket keeps on coming up. I have a loop on the wire big enough fire two fingers to go through. I've read several other forums and I'm not sure what I'm missing. Any advise? Thanks

 

Use a zip tie so you dont bugger up your valve or seat. You may need to use a small eyeglass screwdriver or something similar to pry the shim and bucket apart. They can stick together pretty well.

 

I use an improvised tool.
A Common Nail finished to a Needle Point end.

Sometimes I'll "Tap" the Nail Head with a Small Ball-Peen Hammer Head.
(NO Handle)

Before doing anything, ... I give each Retraction Slot a spritz of WD-40.
When the Shim gets loose; I grab it with a Magnet-on-a-stick.

 

I see what you mean. I did manage one but the others are argumentative. I may have gotten lucky with the first one. I am barring the motor counterclockwise until lobe is pushing the bucket all the way down and then I am putting my loop in 3-4 inches then barring lobe off of bucket. Is that right is there some miniscule thing I'm not doin?

 

so you don't do anything to keep the valve open?

 

Isn't there an advisement against using magnetic tools on the shims?

 

Is your loop bent to get in the valve? Like an L shape?

 

MY method for the zip-tie:

I use TWO zip-ties. I tape the two together for most of the length. then I cut about 3/8" off the tip of one of them. then I bend the remaining tip into a "J", the shorter tip just reinforces the longer one on the inside of the curve as sort of a 'shortened' J. the longer tip acts as a feeler and directs the shorter one into the open valve so it doesn't close at all.

In order to put it into the open valve, I simply remove the spark plugs. I rotate the engine til the #1 cyl valve is open. Looking into the spark plug hole will allow you to see the edge of the open valve. Just direct the tip of the zip-tie in until it's snug. rotate the cam away, spin the bucket to access the notch. Pry the shim up, and.....

as far as I'm concerned, use a small magnet to pull the shim out. The manual says to do that, I'm not gonna get into a p#$%^%^ing match over it. The rotating cam will demagnetize it another time anyway.....The magnet down in the oilpan drain will do it's job bettersince it's stronger, anyway.

Dave F

 

awesome using a magnet will make pulling shims way easier than trying to fish them out by hand like I have been.

 

I use the cheapo $1 extendable magnet from Harbor Freight. Tip is only about 1/4" diameter or so.........

Dave F

 

ya I have one in my tool box, useful little bugger.

 

I keep a bunch handy.......they stand out from the edge of the bandsaw front where I can always reach one........in addition to the two or three that usually stay in the tool pouch.

Hey, you still able to make the carb clinic at the end of next week?

Dave

 

Hopefully, looks clear right now but they like to surprise me with tests that keep me here over weekends. I won't know 100% until the 5th.

 

Tell them you're gonna inspect the Madison grouping from a southwest vantage point....................you can see them from the lawn.

Dave

 

Whoohoo!!! I finally checked all my clearances and existing shims thanks to hog fiddles tie wrap instructions. Still stinks a little because one had the numbers worn off which must be y youre suppose to put them in number down, and only trip of them can I move to a different valve. Anybody know where I can trade these shims. does chacal do that? Anyway thanks guys.

 

Never mind. I read chacalss thing about not reusing old shims.

 

I reuse shims. I have some or hogfiddles runs a shim pool.

 

Dave,

Many of us re-use shims as long as they are in good condition. In spec is in spec whether you run a new shim or a used shim. Even if a used shim is worn a tiny tiny bit, the worst that can happen is that you go out of spec a little sooner next time around. Also, just because you may be due for a check at a given time or mileage doesn't mean you automatically HAVE to swap shims. It's a CHECK......if there's and adjustment to be made, you make the adjustmetn. If you're still in spec, you check it next time around.

I run a shim pool, and I have both used and new shims. There's a limited supply of each, but let me know what sizes you need and I"ll see what I have for you. PM me with the info.

Basically, the cost of the new shims comes in around aftermarket price, and the used shims are a swap......pm for details.

dave F

 

Cool. I thought I was about to have spend another 65 dollars. I will definitely let you know as soon as find out what the last shim measures. Have to locate a micrometer. Thanks Hogfiddles.

 

Harbor Freight if there's one near you has decent digital ones for not much money. That's what I have. Reads inches or MM with the push of a button.

 

HOGFIDDLES!!!! (he runs the shim pool!!!!)

 

I wish we had a harbor freight closer than 3 hours away. But I did take it to advance but they only had a caliber and it measured 1/10 of an inch. Is that pretty accurate and how do I convert that to what ever unit of measurement that is on shims?

 

1/10" is ~ 2.54mm and if I'm correct, the way the shims work is the number on that shim would be 254. Well actually it's probably a 255 because the shims are available in increments of .05mm

 

ok cool, I got it now I think. thanks guys for all the expertise.

 

There's this thing called the internet....

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-digital- ... 68304.html

why drive 6 hours round trip?

 

Yeah I heard of it. I was just trying to find out measurement today.

 

take it to your nearest garage... they can tell you....

 

will do just to double check. Thanks milli

 

Whoohoo!!! I finally checked all my clearances and existing shims thanks to hog fiddles tie wrap instructions. Still stinks a little because one had the numbers worn off which must be y youre suppose to put them in number down, and only trip of them can I move to a different valve. Anybody know where I can trade these shims. does chacal do that? Anyway thanks guys.

 

so you don't do anything to keep the valve open?

 

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