82 XJ750 Maxim final drive shaft and secondary oil question

HEY guys so I just bought an 1982 xj750 maxim with 26k miles. i want to do the drive shaft oil cause the previous owner didnt do it for a while. But i dont know what kind of oil to use for both the final drive or the secondary. the manual is on its way from ebay but i dont want to wait. ALSO the rear break does not have very much power to it, it will stop but is really soft and easy to push and im hoping to fix that besides that the bike is in great condition. any help with these would be great thanks guys.

 

I used Royal Purple 75w140 in the FD on my 81. Not really needed but I had half a bottle left after using it for the mid and final drives on my XS11. I believe the book calls for 80w hypoid oil.

If your rear shoes are still good, you can adjust them on the linkage.

 

HOLD ON.

The only way to be 100% sure (and you need to be) about the rear brake is to pull the wheel and LOOK. Any funky rear brake symptoms could very well be being caused by delaminating shoes: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

The 750 will need the same attention your 550 did. Which means new brake lines, caliper and master cylinder rebuilds, and check the valve clearances. RIGHT AWAY it has 26K on it.

 

the bike runs beautifully im not gonna open her up cause in the manual i got for the guy he kept track of everything he did to the bike he just did the shims in Sep before he stored it. and it has on 250 miles on it since then. and did a carb clean and sync and new tiers. new battery, new fork seals. new brake pads in front an back and the brake lines look great and new throttle cable. SO when i ride the bike it will stop pretty good with the front but the back just seems like its not stoping the greatest but if i apply just the rear brake the bike will not move i cant push it at all so its strong at least and it does help a bit just not as much as it did on my old 550. also if i try to slam on the brakes the rear brake will skid a little but there was a lot of play in the pedal so i adjusted the nut in the back of the linkage. and that helped that a lot. so i think it might be ok just a new bike so feels a little different is all.


Oh also the battery. the guy put a new Maintenance free battery on. but there is a warning light on the bike that says battery he says he checked the battery every day with a volt meter and the charging system and they were all fine. After i bought the bike i went to go start it at home and the bike wouldn't turn on. there was no power to it at all so i checked the battery but it was at a full 12.86 V. So i looked at the fuses i replaced the main fuse but that did nothing then i noticed the blinker fuse was really bad so i replaced that one and the bike turned right on. but i notice that the side cover talks about a wire that goes in the battery in the hole from the positive terminal where the acid is poured in. i found the wire but it wasn't attached to anything. but with the maintenance free battery there was no filler holes i attached the wire to positive terminal and turned the bike on its started the same sounds the same AND the warning for the battery didn't turn on. ... My main question is... is this ok to do will it wreck it or anything.

Sorry for the novel but thanks for the help guys.

 

DON'T hook the Lead to the BATTERY!

Make a Jumper.

Tap into the TAIL LIGHT Wire. ( +12V ~ Switched ).
Splice a 2K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor to the Wire.
From the Resistor ... splice a wire to the Battery Sensor Wire.

Tail Light Wire >--->(2K Ohm 1/2 Watt Resistor)>---Batt Sensor Lead.

 

and why is that? what might happen if the wire stays where it is and why the tail light?? im just curious is all thanks i like to learn...

 

What the hell are you babbling about, Rick? That's exactly where you connect it. Either that, or where the red battery cable bolts to the starter solenoid.

HCP14180 battery sensor bypass

To be fair, if you insist on using the brake light wire, the kit comes with quick-splice connectors to allow you to do just that.

 

So it should be no problem to READ THE DATE CODES ON THEM.

See: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=41400.html

If they're original, they need to be replaced. Period.

 

SOOO i cant read any of the codes at all on these so yeah i will be replacing the lines the steel ones look cool ill probably go with those.The rear brakes look great and are in great condition.

 

Not to get in the middle of any arguments, but if you look at an original setup, you will notice that the battery level sensor goes into the third cell from one end, which will give you 6 or 8 volts, depending on which end you measure from.
I am guessing that someone figured out the resister size to use with the tail light, so that the resulting voltage applied to the battery sensor line was appropriate.
But carry on with the arguments, sometimes insights ensue. :twisted:

CZ :lol: :lol: