First Bike 1980 XJ 650 (H)( i think)

So I bought my first Motorcycle it is what I beleive and was told buy the po that it is a 1980 XJ 650. I will post some pics later. So far I have repaired a small gas tank leak and I am in the process of cleaning the carbs. I had to order float bowl gaskets as I trashed the old ones in taking apart the carbs. I am trying to find a service manual for it. Any suggestions anyone has would be great. The Bike was apparently used and running all last season. I did have it started before I took gas tank and carbs off

 

hi and welcome 1980 G my 1981H check frame nuber your model should read 4h7-000101try get a service manual basic must do,s check rear break for delamination front breaklines me personnallt thinks these are very important as the guys add brill advice hear you will see threads added to thir sig click on these and study all expert advice and good luck

 

So I have cleaned carbs and fixed gas leak. Went to start and found battery is dead. Bought a new one assembled it and now it is charged. anyone know of any issues I might com across tonight when I attemp to start? Is there anything I should do to assure a propper start?

 

As boldstar stated, rear brake delamination is a major concern. Don't trust your life to possible failure. There's several threads about that.

Front brake lines are often overlooked as well, and they have 4 year lifespan, so they probably need to be replaced too.

Tires are also overlooked, so check the date codes on those.

For running, I'd say be sure the tires and brakes aren't going to fail on you before you start rippin around the neighborhood.

Then, checking that the valves are properly shimmed ( clearance, or setting the lash ) is a good idea, as this is also very often overlooked, and let go way past normal schedule.

Balance the carbs ( or at least check ) is next.

Seems like a lot, but it's better than getting busted up for a mechanical failure that was preventable. Also, making sure your valves and carbs are in good shape improves your chance at a good start.

 

Agreed 150% on the safety stuff, links in my sig to what happens to your rear brakes, also the tire and brake hose code threads...

I'd add make sure the oil is changed for fresh, wet clutch-friendly motorcycle specific (maximum SG grade) oil and new filter as well... Might want to use cheap 20w50 for the first change as a flush, then change it again for decent mineral oil once it's run a while & suspended any crap in the oil... Also make sure you use an inline fuel filter to protect the cleaning work you did on the carbs

 

Due to my lack of knowledge where would a inline filter go? From the tank/petcock ? Or somewhere else?

 

It goes on the fuel line between the petcock and the carbs.

Make sure you install it the right way (see the arrow on the filter):

 

New problem my speedometer and tachometer are not working. I am going to take this apart slowly and check the cables as a start. Does any one have a recommendation on lube for the cables and/or anything I should be looking for?

 

NOT WD40.

I personally use Tri-Flow. Or use any good-quality, temperature-resistant lube from the Auto Parts store. DO NOT use WD40. And since your bike has a mechanical tach, I would recommend motor oil for the tach cable.

Checking the cables is a good place to start; here's a tech piece on how the instruments themselves work: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15303.html

 

Left side blinker will not blink. It turns on but no blinking. Where do I start for this problem? oh and right side is fine all other lights work as well.

 

Both front and back? Switch the bulbs from left to right and check, then put back and check the other set. Usually if one bulb no longer blinks, both on that side won't (like with a car). If that doesn't show a bad bulb it's probably a pinched line somewhere. You'll have to run a manometer and find the break, but do the bulb test first to narrow down your options.

 

You mean a MULTIMETER?

A manometer is what we use for vacuum synchronizing the carbs; it's not an electrical instrument.

The flasher relies on current "draw" to operate. If both bulbs light up but don't flash, it's usually due to a poor connection somewhere, rather than a flasher relay issue.

START with the bulbs/sockets. I've seen a lot of horribly corroded sockets inside seemingly fine-looking signals.

 

Yup, I meant that, Fitz. My bad..my multitasking (manotasking?) at work sometimes leaves much to be desired. Today is dealing with stressed dealers due to Harley hating everyone. Whee!

 

Got all my issues "fixed". Do not know if this was normal but you all might get a chuckle out of this. I really struggled replacing the blinkers. I put brand new units on wired them exactly as the old ones but when I tried them they would not blink just stay running. Long story short after many different attempts I had gone into the hoiuse to call my electrical buddy and had a brain storm. I had not tried turning the engine on and test them so I did and they worked purfectly. hahahaha.

Now I blew out the low beam on my headlight so got a replacement lens and now I can not get that ring around it to secure. Does any one got any tips or a link to fix this issue? Thanks in advance.

 

You need a full strong batt.

Replace the fuse box im with a new current blade type.

Clean out all the bulb sockets and clean up all the electrical connections and seal with dielectric grease. Remember it INSULATES so use it to seal them, not to aid the connection.

Will collectively solve most of any hidden sporatic electrical gremlins that may happen.

Do the Fuse box and then a batt. at the minimum.

 

Already replaced battery. Again I am a rookie soo will the fuse box require re wiring ?? Obviously fuse connections have to go somewhere

 

Head light wont stay in metal housing. It appears the ring that holds it is broken any body got something to say about that maybe a way to fix or just replace and what the part is called??Thanks

 

that ring that holds the light in can be lightly mig or tig welded back together. (tig looks nicer) I had to do that on the rings around the headlights of an old Thunderbird I had once.

 

Changing oil today and the bolt that holds the filter in is seized beyond belief. I've sprayed it with PB blaster. Heated it tried vice grips nothing anyone got some insight obviously it was over tightened by last change but holy F!!!'n I've never seen anything like this

 

It's not just a bolt; it's a hollow bolt-shaped tube that contains the pressure relief valve. Overtightening is common.

We're assuming at this point the bolt head is torn up? You can use a damaged-bolt extractor socket, or grind the head off and slide the housing away. Then replace the bolt of course.

Be sure to use conventional, motorcycle spec oil; NOT car oil and stay away from synthetics. Castrol 4T is fine, you want 20W50 for warmer weather.