Oil level question

hey guys. My 550 is almost ready to run!!!
It's at the shop getting some new tires and a proper carb tune... In the meantime, I noticed something that's probably normal but I thought I'd ask anyway -

I changed my oil before the bike went to the shop (Castrol GTX 20-50). The oil level window was completely covered (I referred to the manual for the oil amount).

When I start the bike, the oil level in the window drops completely out, and when I kill the engine it slowly comes back to full. I understand that some oil gets circulated through the engine, but is it normal for the level to drop past the bottom of the window?


thanks....

 

When the engine is running, perfectly normal.

 

That window is well above the top of the pan. Most of your oil is below that window, even when not running.

 

ok i just checked the level when not running and only half of the window is covered.
should i put more in.....i dont have a manual

 

There is some debate on this but 1/2 to 3/4 of the window covered is considered full.

 

I believe Haynes says entire window, but I really don't want to start a debate. anywhere between 3/4 and covered is where I keep it.

 

The Yamaha Service Bulletin recommends filling it to the top of the window to prevent the oil light from flashing on hard acceleration. If you are not experiencing this problem, 3/4 window should be fine.

 

now i know this question has been answered but what type of oil should be used.
i know 5w -50 but should it be just for motorcyle or does it matter as long as its 5w - 50

 

The weight will depend on where you live and ride. For warmer temps, heavier oil is appropriate, thinner oil for cooler climates. Since you haven't listed where you are, I'm going to suggest you read up on the oil you need in the Haynes manual.

 

How's does the Number-1 Choice of every manufacturer for use in its Racing Program sound?

The absolute top-of-the-line protection ... bar none.

Castrol 20/50

 

I'm glad to hear you so confident about Castrol Rick...That's what I use. I'm always concerned about if I'm making the right choices or not. I use the 5/50 now and still have to see if the 20/50 will be better for me in the summer. I was so worried about synthetics when I first decided to start putting it in my XT. Some guys just plain wouldn't talk about it and had different philosophies on breaking the bike in. Some said thet it wouldn't break in if I changed over to sythetics too early and it may be too slick for the clutch. I'm off the subject but I am still new to synthetics for bikes and what viscosity limts to use for it. Why doesn't Yamaha talk about the ferk'in stuff being used for my XT in the factory manual to give me the right service specs. in the year of 06. I'm still worried but the bike runs great and the clutch doesn't seem to slip.

 

It comes down to not using synthetic to break in. To be on the safe side I give the first change with Dino then at 3rd change go for the good stuff! Well and truely broken in by then. Local bike shop uses Castrol in everything, one in Timaru uses synthetic in everything. Some people use semi synthetic at first change. All seems to work, I would not worry too much .

 

Thanks Kiwi...makes a lot of sense to me and appears to be all wise and the plan to follow. Now if I can just get lucky and hope these daunting 4 carbs on my XJ don't mess up some day...I'll be happy. I'm a good wrench and can make sense and follow of a good manual, due to lack of experience...but this carb stuff is intimidating. I've started reading up on some threads here and it appears to be not if but when they mess up. I had better study now and not wait for when it's thrown in my lap.

 

Best of luck Scrape. The carbs are not too bad. Main thing is that they are clean, if the bike is running well you should not have to worry too much. You should just need to sync them every 6 months from what I can gather. The sync tool is easy enough to make (tube and 2 stroke oil, will write up a FAQ with pictures soon) and as is a YCIS tool.

Not that I have a problem with carbs, my XJ is EFI .

 

That FAQ topic would be a great service to me and the concerning membership here Kiwi....your most kind and helpful! I wish I had fuel injection on my bike but I love it regardless.

 

I have a question. My oil light flickers on and off and it doesn't seem to be in relation to anything that's going on with the bike (acceleration, braking, cornering, idleing, revving, etc.) But when I check the oil window it is full to the top with only a slight bubble. Are you supposed to check the oil when the bike is running? What happens if I fill the oil until the light goes out?

Thanks,
Brandon

 

Last first.

You fill the oil until the light goes out and you will likely be replacing seals at a minimum.

More likely your sending unit is bad, or it has a bad ground, based on your description.

Jim 8)

 

I believe you check the level with the bike running and on the center stand. I just changed the oil and filter in my 550 and the level was way above the window but when started it came down to just below the top of the window. My Clymer manual says 2.6 quarts(2.5 liters) with filter change.

 

NOPE!. Check with bike not running and on the centerstand, fill until the window is almost full. A running XJ will have NO oil visible in the window.

 

Brute, you most likely have an electrical gremlin as Jim pointed out. Check out the sender (underneath the bike, bolted into the sump) and the associated wiring.
As for checking your oil, MiCarl is spot on. Bike off, on centerstand. A slight bubble at the top of the sight glass is the optimal condition. Do not overfill the machine, drain any excess swiftly.
Over filling the case can cause excess drag on the crank or slapping as the crank hits the surface of the oil bath. Bad for efficency and not good for the crank. Additionally, excess oil can also lead to overpressurization in the crankcase which in turn will show you where your weakest seal is located with a stream of oil leaking past it. Just keep the oil within the range specified and you'll be ok.

 

Could the 550's be different? Before I changed the oil and filter the level was above the glass with the engine off and at mid glass ideling. Poured dirty oil into an empty one gallon milk jug and filled it about half way-2 quarts. When I refilled the crankcase I poured in 2.5 liters of oil per the manual and it is above the sight glass with the bike on the centerstand and engine off. Start the engine to check for leaks and fill oil filter and the level drops to just below the top of the sight glass. With the engine off and only one liter of oil the glass shows oil at the bottom quarter.

 

I have an 82 XJ550 and I cant find a oil level check....were is it or am i stupid?

 

Truth be told Fozzie, I'm not versed in 550s. I've twiddled two of them on very rare occation and haven't the foggiest idea if the sight glass is the same. I will however stand by my guns on the method of checking oil level and over filling concerns. Pretty universal process there.

 

I agree, overfilling is not good. I have been working on engines since the mid eighties and have always checked oil level with the engine not running.

 

if u overfill ccan it put oil in the exhaust pipes?

 

Possible if it is pressurized past the rings. You'd see your sparkplugs covered with oil too if this were the case.

 

DMorey, your oil window might be dirty.. it's on the right side of the motor, right at the bottom of the clutch cover, about where the rear brake pedal is.

Surely all 550's have those.... Don't they? :?