Trying to get Led Lights on the bike

Hey guys last weekend I tried placing led signals on the Maxim X and it went no where. I had purchased a new 2 prong led flasher, a trailer box, and 2 wire led's. I am find with losing the running light function of the front. I also have super bright led foglights I am adding. The foglights will be powered off of the Blue Aux wire in the headlight. However where would be the best place to ground the two lights?


Now the issues I ran into with the turn signals. The 2 prong flasher I got is not plug and play like I was under the impression. There is a box with 9 or so wires running to it and the box says hazard/turn signals on it. My bike doesn't have hazard lights. It has the park setting and regular blinkers. What was even more confusing my schematic only showed 5 or 6 wires going to this box not 9.... Does it do something more involved that I am unaware of? My friends dad and I couldn't even get them to flash on the bench. Using the led flasher and the trailer box. Any advice on how to make this work would be great.

 

Make model of this 9 wire flasher would help us.

 

http://www.powersportsplus.com/parts/se ... parts.html


It is part number 10.

I hope that's what you want.

 

Perhaps the X is different, but based on my bike I'd tell you that box is the auto cancel and not the flasher at all.

 

you lost me dude the flasher is, i think a EL13, what is a trailer box?
do you pull a trailer? and a two wire led, to me that's a tiny little clear plastic thing with two wires sticking out........you have a link to it?
ground your running lights where the headlight is grounded

 

Iwingameover gave me a good deal of help to start this and used a trailer box wired in just to make it easy. With the turn signal on it is what clicks. I couldn't find anything else that would be the relay. And yes polock it's a clear little cylinder with two prongs and I believe a ground wire I can take pictures tomorrow if necessary. Btw I plan on putting those bar ends on this weekend.

 

+1 on canceller, not flasher. Flasher should have three pins, not nine wires. My alternate theory is that you have some PO installed non-Yamaha part on there. Take a picture.

Also, I'm gonna say something that you may think is obvious, but just in case... an LED is a diode, that is, current only goes through it one way. Make sure when you are testing them on the bench that you hook them up with the right polarity. If I recall, the longer lead is negative. If it's backwards it won't light up, unlike an incandescent bulb.

 

He should have something like this: http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p558.html for the trailer box. It combines turn/brake or turn/running light into one bulb or filament depending on how you wire it. I use one for brake/turn on the rear of my bike since I have combo lights. But mine are not LED.

 

"There is a box with 9 or so wires running to it and the box says hazard/turn signals on it."

I was under the impression you bought some new box that had 9 wires, my bad, I was asking for THAT make model

 

No I got just a standard two prong led flasher. The link and number I posted earlier is exactly whats on my bike. How would I replace it with a two prong? Why so many wires going to it? I can post a pic in a few hours if need be.

 

The thing to do is visit a site like SignalDynamics

http://www.signaldynamics.com/

You can get a "Dummy Load Module" and add the needed resistance to retain the Flasher and Auto-Cancelling feature.

 

Thanks Rick! I was wanting the flashing brake light as well so great site! Now just to figure out which one i need for the signals.

 

I have the Standard "BACK-Off"

It flashes my Brake Light 5-times before coming-on steady.
I mounted a trio of RED LED Strips on the Back Plastic Piece above the Brake Light.
They flash and come-on along with the Brake Light.

I'm thinking about adding a Relay and wiring my Signal Lights to get triggered by the Back-off Module, too.
A fused +12V wire from the Battery to the Load-IN side of the Relay. Relay Load OUT to the two Signal Lights with Diodes to keep the Front Signals from flashing.
Activating Signal wire from the Back-off to the Relay Trigger IN with the Relay Trigger OUT to Ground.

 

I saw the back off on a BMW when drivingy car and it was crazy how much more attention grabbing it was as well as cars stayed back. In Missouri people are crazy on the road so it's not a bad idea and for under $40.00 you can't really complain.

 

I know this is an old post but I just recently dealt with this on my xj700n which uses the same 9 pin module. The module its self is a combination setup. I dont yet know how to do quotes, but I found this info from one of chacals very useful guides( http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=27543.html )

XJ700 and XJ750-X Consolidated Relay Assembly:

Location:
- mounted under and to the rear of the fuel tank, behind the wishbone frame triple-tube joint.

Identification:
- large rectangular black plastic relay, inked 41R-71 and then "ND FX257N"

Harness connector wire colors:
* Red wire with white tracer stripe (starter cut-off relay)
* Blue wire with white tracer stripe (starter cut-off relay)
* another Blue wire with white tracer stripe (starter cut-off relay)
* Black wire with yellow tracer stripe (starter cut-off relay)
* Black solid wire (common ground)
* Yellow wire with red tracer stripe (self-canceller)
* Brown wire with white tracer stripe (signal flasher)
* White wire with green tracer stripe (self-canceller)
* Brown solid wire (signal flasher)

Doing some investigation I found out the integrated turn signal flasher uses a thermal break, so it requires the amperage load of the standard bulbs to flash correctly. So to continue using it normally you either have to stick with the standard bulbs or put ballasts on the led lines to add the extra power drain. I decided this wouldnt work since I was trying to eliminate extra power drain and keep all the lights on my bike from dimming at idle or pulsing when the blinker is on at idle. The control board is epoxied inside the casing so trying to pull it apart you will likely damage it(discovered this while seeing if it could be disassembled and retrofitted) This is what I ended up doing:

I pulled the solid brown wire, and the brown wire with white tracer stripe out of the 9 wire harness, cut the ends off and switched them to female spade terminals.
Ran out and picked up an electronic flasher relay, UPDATE: the model is a Blazer Electronic EF-32, Originally from autozone but they may not carry that particular model any longer. As long as it says its electronic and is a 2 pole flasher it should work.
Double zip tied the flasher to the wire harness just below where the combination unit mounts, then connected up the two wires.
Replaced tail lights, rear and front turn signal bulbs all with LED.

Everything works as expected with one minor nuance. The self canceler unit is tied into the thermal relay inside that combo unit, so you end up losing the flashers shutting off automatically. Not really a huge hangup for me since its a pet peeve of mine for people to leave their blinkers on, so I pay fairly close attention to turning them off after I complete a maneuver.

If anyone happens to have one of these modules that has gone bad I would be willing to pay shipping to have it sent out to me so I can hack it apart and try to sort out how to build a new board that can handle both the electronic flasher relay and a self canceler as well.

UPDATE: Just got in the LED instrument panel bulbs and discovered that the blinker indicator bulbs cant be changed, even the electronic blinker relay requires the 3 watt draw they have to properly drive the relay. I will have to look around and see if I can find a different model relay that works with little to no amperage draw. Also, you cannot change the low fuel indicator bulb either, its resistance is part of what works with the tank sensor(it is not just an on-off switch). I may look into adding a resistor to the LED for that to correct it as I would really like the fuel light to be much brighter to grab my attention sooner than how it just fades in and out right now with the stock bulb.

UPDATE 2: I did some more research on the tank light and electronic blinker relay.

The tank sending unit utilizes a thermistor, so when the fuel is in contact with the sensor it keeps the thermistor cool it acts as a "short"(has lower resistance than the bulb), when there is no fuel contact to keep the thermistor cool it heats up, increases its resistance and pushes power up to the bulb making it illuminate. I found placing a resistor across the bulb contact terminals along with the LED bulb will correct the issue and make everything function properly(the draw from the resistor is what causes the thermistor to heat and do its job). I tested mostly with a 56 ohm 1/2 watt resistor and it seems to work about perfectly. The original bulb was around 6.5 ohms so decreasing the resistance may help cause the thermistor to heat up sooner forcing the bulb to illuminate sooner and thus notifying you sooner, experimentation will tell over time to find the perfect resistance for that.

I did the same with the blinker indicators to cause enough of a draw across the blinker relay to get it to function as well. An odd side note the resistor causes the indicator to light up immediately when the relay triggers, but fades similar to a standard bulb when the relay clicks off, pretty nifty looking. Using a lower resistance might help to eliminate that fade if thats not your thing(try sticking to something around 10 ohms).

So with that I now have a fully LED converted bike aside from the headlight, and hopefully someone else will find this information useful. This was one of the first threads that came up when I searched for LED related stuff(hopefully not being a jerk and dredging up an old forum post, but it also applied to my particular bike with its consolidated relay assembly).

 

Super old thread but applied to my issue on a different yamaha model, but same relay.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks man. Huge time saver.