Clutch inspection - calling all experienced gurus

I plan on inspecting my clutch today. I know what to look for regarding the clutch itself. However, my question is this: while i'm in there is there anything else I should check/inspect? This will be the first time I've taken the clutch cover off.

Thank you!

 

Inspecting or changing? Removing just the plates or the basket too?

You'll probably want to have a gasket handy, the old ones tend to tear and then you'll just leak from that cover until you get a new one.

 

Inspecting - changing if needed. I do get some slight slipping when shifting at high RPMs (6-7k). Also, I tend to hear what I can only describe as a "chirping" at around 4-5k RPM. I've read on other forums where the cooling fins will "sing" due to resonance - but I don't THINK its that - its near impossible to find the source as it only seems to happen when I'm moving.

 

Replacement cable, or lube for old, Fitz recommends cotton buds for cleaning the oil sight glass ( these do work well) . Scotch brite for cleaning plain plates.

Once back together monitor the chirping and try to pinpoint location.

And finally a good read of fitz's writeup before you start.

 

Are you sure the "chirping" isn't bike-speed and not rpm-related? Could be the speedo or cable...

If you have the original clutch, the friction plates may very well measure within wear spec; but they're 30 years old and won't work the way they used to be able to.

Just rebuild the clutch. If your hub and basket are OK; and the plain plates not scored, warped or burnt blue, then all you'll need will be friction plates, springs, bolts and a new gasket.

***NOTE*** The 550 clutch has "tabbed" plain plates and a special friction plate with a "clutch boss spring" that need to be assembled in the correct orientations. It's not covered very well in the manuals. See: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html

 

RE: chirping - it is definitely not speed related as hear it most noticeably during downshifting (during the higher-->lower RPM traversal) - it is only momentary (half a second maybe) as it passes through the 4-5K RPM range.

RE:clutch - I will most likely rebuild it using the aftermarket friction plates and springs that Len has available (which reports to produce a bit stiffer clutch).

If I am able I will try to produce a video which captures the "chirp". Also, I am currently running Yamalube 10w-40 (live in Cicero, NY an only ride in summer and fall). I think I am going to use 20w-50 Castrol 4T (non-synthetic) next oil change as I get a slight bit of valve chatter after the bike has warmed up and is at "normal" operating temperature. The values were in spec when we checked a few weeks ago but I plan on re-checking those as well now that I've banged on the engine a little bit.

 

With the 750 clutch cover, it's possible to take a sheet of gasket material, trace the old gasket with a sharpie and cut it out with scissors, leaving lots of sheet left over for future use.
Not sure about the other motors, though.

 

I do have some Victor-Renz material (both high-temp as well as some cork) but in this case I will just order the gasket as I plan to order new friction plates and springs too.

 

lanker; definitely switch to 20W50; the 550s have an hydraulically-operated primary chain tensioner and DO NOT like running on too-thin oil.

I would recommend OEM springs; the "extra stiffness" of the aftermarket springs is unnecessary; all it does is give your hand more exercise. I'm running Len's aftermarket plates with OEM springs and original/refurbished plain plates in my '83 and it's better than the stock clutch IMHO.

***PREVENT a DISASTER*** Replace the pressure plate BOLTS too. With proper ones, not hardware store parts.

 

Bigfitz52 5:15 - So it is written, so it shall be done.

When Bigfitz speaks - I listen. Period.