Need help with plug chop

I've been searching for awhile on how to effectively plug chop. After all the work I've been doing, I'm getting nervous about doing something silly like blowing the engine from running to lean. I've got the general gist of what to do. Run the bike under load and kill the bike, coast, remove plugs and examine color.

But how much of a load ? I see a lot of different ranges as different parts of the carb are used at different RPMs. Should I be doing 3 chops? One at a lower RPM to check the pilot and then a mid range for the main and then a WOT?

I tend to over complicate things so I'm posting to get a bit of help and a smack in the head. :lol: If someone could help or point me into a walk through for reading plugs and then also how to do the adjustments It would be greatly appreciated! As always thanks for any help!!

 

Until you find the correct main jet you cant proceed to the other settings.
Unless you have done some major mods you don't need to worry about blowing anything up. What have you done to the bike so far?

 

Run on the road at 5000 RPMs. Then when you hit 5000 RPMs or a little over you hit the kill switch and stop. Pull plugs check color. Plug chop under 5000 RPMs don't count for nothing!

 

If you were running too lean you would hear popping and backfiring. Unless you modified your airflow in some way (pods, exhaust mods) then you most likely aren't in any danger areas. However, running too lean can cause an overheat condition (even without the presence of popping and backfiring). I would recommend a ColorTune kit ($60 through Chacal - best deal around). You can use it to check a/f at all RPMs - its worth the money (and just recently helped me diagnose a broken pilot screw issue which I never would have figured out otherwise).

If you are doing a legit plug chop then you would typically:

(a) warm up the engine with old plugs
(b) replace with brand new plugs
(c) get the bike into top gear as fast as possible and hold at full throttle for at least 5 seconds
(d) pull clutch and cut the engine (do not let the clutch out until bike comes to rest)
(e) pull plugs
(f) cut off (chop) the threads from the plug exposing the full insulator
(g) look at color at base of insulator - lightly toasted marshmallow color is perfect

You really shouldn't have to do a true plug chop unless you've been doing some custom mods.

 

You always do a plug chop as part of your carb sync. this is the only way to tell if you are running rich or lean while you are riding your bike!!! This is the tweaking part of tuning your carbs. And a plug chop done on the road at 5000, plus a little, RPMs is the way its done, UNDER LOAD!! You want a tan to light brown when you do a plug chop. You cannot do it any other way.

 

this was my impression as well, no mods, but rebuilt the carbs not that long ago.

 

I just inspect my plugs periodically. As long as you shut the bike down immediately after a long ride (not a lot of idling once you pull in the driveway) you'll get a pretty good idea of how things are going in the combustion chambers.

 

Thanks fits, and I'm looking for a tan-light brown condition after a good ride without a lot of idiling? I'll have to take a look and see how I'm doing. I live right off a main drag so after a ride home from work I'll be able to pull right in and cut the power.

 

This is probably a dumb question buy I should be reading the tip of the insulator. Correct? To the electrode point or bar have anything to do with it?

 

Screw the insulator. The tiny plugs in the 550s will only "tan" on one side and we don't care.

The GROUND STRAP (the piece that you bend to adjust the gap) and the "flame ring" are where you read your plugs.

The ground strap only "counts" on the vertical part, before it makes the bend over the electrode.

The flame ring is that portion of the plug that the ground strap sprouts from, that ridge (ring) just above the threads. It (just) sticks into the combustion chamber too.

"Read" the ground strap and flame ring. Sure, you can look at the condition and color of the insulators; if they all match then your motor is nicely and evenly tuned. And no, they won't be bone white if everything is right.

But they aren't really where you need to look.

Flame ring and vertical portion of the ground strap.

And "plug chops" are fine for troubleshooting issues at a particular RPM; but unless you always ride at that RPM then they're about useless in the real world. Better to just check the plugs occasionally, monitor oil level and fuel economy and ride the bike.

That's what I do anyway. And it seems to work. (Has for years and years, truth be told.)