Transplant rejection or am I an idiot

All was resaonably well in my world yesterday, I went for my longest ride to date (about 70 miles), the bike ran great but man was I sore by the end. I decided it was time to fit the bike to me a little better and make some improvements. I've ordered new rear shocks, everything to rebuild the forks plus Progressive springs and some different bars. A friend of a friend also hooked me up with a cheap 2 up sportster seat.

I'm waiting on suspension parts so I thought I'd mess around with the seat. I got it to fit fairly well. I like the looks better than the stock seat. Only thing I don't like is the "SPORTSTER" tramp stamp on the back of the seat. I 'll try to get some pics later.

Anyway, seat is more or less mounted I thought I'd go for a ride and see how I liked it. Seat feels better than stock but definately encourages a stretched out riding position. I didn't really like using the highway pegs before, but with the new seat I do. So about 18 miles into my preferred twenty mile test route I switch to reserve. About a mile later, I slow down for a turn pull in the clutch to downshift and the bike almost dies. Worse yet, I smell gas.

I wasn't happy with the way my fuel line was routed yesterday, so I decided to go back to straight gas line and no filter until I could get a 90 degree filter tomorrow. In hindsight that was stupid.

it looks like it's the float for #1 that stuck. Is it possible to remove the bowl with carbs still on the bike? Any suggestions that don't require pulling the rack?

 

In order to service the Float, ... you need to pull the rack.

 

Right, rack removed, float removed, found what looks like part of a pine needle in there.

 

wow made it all the way to the float.. interesting.

 

I seriously doubt a Pine Needle could make the trip from Tank to Float Bowl.

The Petc0ck is Screened.
The route tough to transit.
Beenie-screens on Float Valve Seat?

 

Not positive what it was but I don't remember the petcock having a screen for reserve and the beanie screens were long gone before I ever opened a carb.

 

You can remove the #1 and #4 carb bowls with the carbs still attached to the bike. You can also remove all 4 carb hats and pilot screws with the carbs attached.
Just get a proper phillips or standard bit that you would normally use with a screwdriver and insert it into a 1/4" socket and ratchet. Now you can easily reach the 4 screws on the carb bowls but dont overtighten them.

 

I looked at it yesterday before pulling the rack and you can drop the #4 bowl on the bike but the alternator is in the way of #1. I tried with the cover removed but I was afraid of damaging the float pillars and just pulled the rack. I found enough little things to do with the carbs off that made it worth pulling.

 

Just a word of caution! You are correct, you CAN remove them without pulling the rack. However, I have found that doing so, you end up needing to pull the rack anyway to fix whatever you find.... Also, there is way too much risk of damaging a float pillar trying to pull a rack without the bowl on!

 

If you make things a bit easier to remove, install and service your Carbs; you won't be reluctant to yank the rack.

Aside from dressing the Airbox's 4 Outlets, enlarging them ever-so-slightly and smoothing the I.D.'s with 1000 or greater.
You have less of a fight with the Boots swiveling and save the hassle of reinstalling them.

Lube with Silicone Spray, ArmorAll or Marvel Oil.

Get New Stainless Screws for all the Clamps.
• Longer than the Stock Screws. Makes reattaching Clamps routine.

Use a 16 or 18 Inch Hardwood Hammer Handle to Pry with.

Lightly Dress Carb Intake Necks and Manifold Locating Channels with Synthetic Waterproof Grease.

Use a Plastic Cover taken from a Term Paper Binder spread-over the Intake Horns to position the rack without a big fuss.

Get the "Complete Carb Stainless Kit" Allen Head.
The Sync Screws can be replaced too.
If you go Stainless Allen Sync Screws; treat yourself to a long, "T-handled Allen Wrench".

 

Thanks for the advice. I had a tough time getting them back on last time. I installed a stainless screw kit the first time I had the carbs apart, they made it so much easier to work on this time.

 

a hair dryer or heat gun on the intake manifold helps too.