Removing rotors - Any caveats?

Any caveats or tips when removing rotors?

I'm planning on using kroil to penetrate and a small pipe on the allen wrench as a breaker bar.

And, reuse the original allen bolts or use new SS allen?

Thanks!

 

If not already marked, mark as left and right. "Lightly" sand the inner circumference of the rotor for an easier fit. Tighten the bolts progressively and diagonally like a head gasket. I would use new bolts.

 

Are you using new locking tabs or spring washers ?

 

Thanks for the replies!

@ Adrian; Will do,

@ Wizard; I hadn't planned to. It'd be easy enough to get new spring washers, I'm not so sure about the locking tabs.

 

Len has the locking tabs.

 

Just looked at the bike and there are no locking tabs or spring washers that I can see. I went to the parts blow-up and see none listed.

http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042876f8700209bc788d8d/front-brake-caliper

I know with bolts there are locking tabs, apparently not so on the Maxim-X. Other than the XJ700 series the only other XJ with these bolts is the 900RK. Quite a few other Yamahas with them though like the FJ, FZ and VMX series.

Go figure...

 

I have seen that set up use locktight.

 

I was wanting to replace the FJR's allen bolts with Stainless.

Where's a good quality source?? Wouldn't want to end up with inferior Chinese Stainless that might rust or not be as strong. (17% lead alloy)

 

The X did not use the locking tabs, just the button head bolt and lock-tite. They can be a pain to remove. If you just use a allen wrench there is a good possibility you will ring the hole out. Put a set of vice-grip pliers around the head and a allen wrench in the center. Sit on the wheel and turn both at the same time. That will break them loose.

 

Yes, it looks like blue locktite is the right kind. & other than using Kroil (not sure it would get past the old locktite) what's the best way to both break these allen bolts free and how to torque them in? I have a set of common metric allen wrenches but always worry about all that torque applied on the inside of the bolt instead of the outside. Can't use a propane torch because of the bearings & rubber in the wheel.

Also, how do you properly torque the required 14 ft lbs of torque with Allen Wrenches? Had that problem getting the torque right on some header nuts on different XJs, I just did it to what I felt was secure but that's just a guess.

 

Heat makes locktite let go. Check the website for the temp you need.
Pray It's not the red stuff

 

Getting a vice grip on the head might be hard as they're tapered & look like an umbrella. Probably for cosmetic purposes but there's not a lot of mass to work with. Can't use an impact wrench with the metric allen either. I do have needlenose vise grips though, probably my best chance.

Hmmmm

 

Read previous post to remove bolts.
Clean all the old lock-tite from the threads . Wire brushes work good, Apply a drop of lock-tite to the bolt and torque them down.

 

If you're worried about torqueing allen head bolts, get a set of metric hex driver sockets. I got mine from my local wal-mart, Stanley brand.

Use a heavy duty soldering iron pressed against the bolt to melt old locktite.

 

My 2 cents..... Get yourself HIGH QUALITY hardened metric hex driver bolts. (http://www.sears.com/craftsman-6-pc-met ... ockType=G2) I've shattered many cheap ones. OR you can even make your own by taking the hardened allen wrench and cutting about 1" off